Break in oil recommendations….

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Mar 22, 2015
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I am in the process of rebuilding a 2.5L out 1998 Ford Ranger. I would normally just run 10-30 dino in the engine for the first 1000 miles and then switch to synthetic. I was just curious if there was a better oil or additive to use for the process. I know there are specific oils made for breaking in an engine but they are kind of pricey. The engine is the last variant of the ford "Lima" engine. It is a cast iron block and head with a roller cam and an eight spark plug set up. The engine calls for 5-30 API. Thanks in advance! Randy-
 
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Amsoil break in oil... http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/break-in-oil-%28sae-30%29/?code=BRKQT-EA
 
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Maybe I'm in the minority here. You have a roller cam, so nothing special is needed. With that being said, I use Supertech HD30 to break in my engines whenever I build them.
 
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I wouldn't even bother with a "special" break-in oil, I'd use Pennzoil High Mileage 5W-30 for 1500 miles. Maybe 10W-40 in Kentucky...
 
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Quaker State defy 5w30 is loaded with ZDDP even though it seems not really necessary here. Redline makes a break in additive you can add it too any conventional 5w30 API SN and boost its ZDDP anti wear additives up high enough to be over the mark. Mobil 1 High Mileage 5w30 is another option.
 
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Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
Yeah, I'd rather have the moly in Pennzoil here and think it's probably more valuable than zinc...
Actually for break in you want no moly and high ZDDP.
 
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My brand new 2014 Mitsubishi Outlanders break in oil had 1400 ppm Moly and 240 Boron straight from Japan.
 
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The additives found in the factory oil fill is more than likely from the assembly lube. That's the part that most people somehow overlook.
 
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Opinions are like ________, everybody's got one. With that being said, you've got roller rockers in that engine, so no special high-dollar additives are needed. Just put assembly lube on your critical moving parts. Your 10W-30 will work, but consider a thinner oil on the initial start to get into every little nook and cranny just a little bit quicker. I just wouldn't put in a no-name oil. However, I'd give you a different recommendation if you had a 4.0 Jeep with flat-tappet lifters.
 
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Use break in oil, you will have a morr powerful and cleaner running engine after,and do a hard break in, dump the oil after 200 miles. Check out "moto man break in"
 

r55nls2002

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Mar 22, 2015
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Well that is a lot more responses than I thought I was going to get….. A couple for redline additive… Some for good old conventional.. Synthetic really?? And one for the MOTO MAN break in.. Since the heads is going to the machine shop tomorrow, I still have time to research this.. Any one have some links off hand??
 
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Originally Posted By: r55nls2002
Well that is a lot more responses than I thought I was going to get….. A couple for redline additive… Some for good old conventional.. Synthetic really?? And one for the MOTO MAN break in.. Since the heads is going to the machine shop tomorrow, I still have time to research this.. Any one have some links off hand??
When I rebuilt my Mazda 626 engine and the one for my old Accord, I just used Mobil 1 5W-30 and ran it to 5000 miles. Heresy I realize, but both "broke in" just fine and neither one had any problems nor consumed any excess oil. I figured there are cars out there that come with M1 from the factory, and ExxonMobil says it will work fine. It did for me. IMO special break in oil is not necessary.
 
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If you insist in a break in oil, there certainly are some available. Along with those already mentioned, Royal Purple has one, and it is conventional, if I recall correctly, because they "believe in" conventional for a break in. For the F-150, I just used QSGB with Comp Cams break in lube. And yes, we all obsess about this too much and have many conflicting opinions, since engines seem to do pretty well these days, regardless of the break-in regimen.
 

r55nls2002

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I am still leaning towards getting some conventional and maybe an additive. Zpinch…. I looked up MOTOMAN and honestly that generally break in an engine. I run it a little harder than I normally drive and keep the RPMs varied.
 
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