Brake Puzzler - Long

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Hello. This one has me stumped. Wife’s car is a ’98 Ford Taurus with disc brakes front and drum brakes back, no anti-lock. About a week ago she went to make a normal stop and the back wheels locked up about half way through the stopping distance and she slid into the intersection. This was at the start of a light rain and speed was 45 mph. Brakes were fine before and after this. Saturday while driving 35mph on a sweeping turn she applied brakes lightly and the rear locked up and caused the car to fish tail; the road was wet. Again, brakes were fine just before and just after. Because it is wet(both times)there is no screeching tires and smoke. She says she believes that at least one and maybe both tires lock up. Says the pedal feels just fine. She has some hearing loss and notices no odd noises. She feels it is definitely the rear brakes. She is also not good with mechanical things

I’ve done my best to replicate the problem without success. Dry pavement, wet pavement, from gradual stops to hard stops, cold brakes and hot brakes; lots and lots of stops. The car stops well without any significant pull to either side for me.

I replaced the brakes 10 weeks ago. Used Monroe ceramic pads on the front and DuraLast shoes on the rear. Also put new Wagner wheel cylinders and a Wagner hardware kit on the back. The front rotors and rear drums were in good shape so I reused them after deglazing. I also flushed the system with Prestone DOT3 brake fluid. Fluid level remains constant in the master cylinder.

A couple of weeks ago I made a hard stop from 45 MPH to see how everything was working with some miles on the new brakes. Stopped OK. Since then the above problem has cropped up. Don’t know if it’s related.

I pulled both drums Sunday and everything looked fine. No leaks, wet linings, damaged or out of place hardware. Shoes and drum look fine. There was a small “rock” partially embedded in the lining of the left rear leading shoe, at the top. It looked like a small piece of crushed limestone, same color as the lining, and around 0.040 – 0.050 inch across. It had plowed a short groove, about 3/8-inch from the edge of the lining to where the rock was, in the direction of wheel rotation. I couldn’t see any corresponding groove in the drum. I think that maybe the rock is a hard chunk of the lining material, with the color match. Removed the rock, put it back together and all seems to work fine.

Does anyone have any ideas? Could this be an issue with the proportioning valve? I looked at the proportioning valve and could not get the little actuating buttons to noticeably move. Does the valve need to have hydraulic pressure for the buttons to stick out to be actuated? Thanks in advance for your help. Sorry for the long post but wanted to give as much information as possible.
 
How are her tires? Are the fronts in better shape than the back?

Swap the fronts for the backs and when it gets wet, see what happens if there is a difference.

This may be a traction issue, not a brake issue.
 
The tires are good. The backs do have a bit less tread, though, and are a different brand; all are properly inflated. I'll try swapping and see what happens. It really puzzles me as why I can't make it happen when I drive. Thanks again.
 
Maybe your wife doesn't brake with the same finesse as you do.

As much as I love oilbabe, I'm the smoother driver of the two of us.
 
I had that same problem on an '86 Monte Carlo. I had replaced the rear drum shoes earlier, but not the front pads because they had a lot of life left (I'm a cheapskate). It likewise got to where the rear brakes would lock before the front. I even went so far as to replacing the proportioning valve. I finally determined that the rear shoes had a higher efficiency than the front pads. I replaced the shoes again with a cheaper (more stock) type and the problem went away.

In short, I suspect the Monroe ceramic pads don't have the same coefficient of friction (especially when cold) as the Duralast rear shoes. Try installing a less efficient brake shoe in the rear, or a more efficient pad in the front. After my debacle, I try to buy cars with 4-wheel disc brakes, and I change all pads at the same time with the same type material. Best way to avoid another conflict in braking ability.

Let me know if this fixes your problem.
 
Different coefficients of friction makes some sense. My question is why did this take so long (8 weeks) to crop up and why isn't it repeatable? When it has happened it's been on a 120 mile round trip (both times)and only happens once each time, and then seems fine. I can't make it happen at all. Wife does drive more conservatively than I do, but I've tried all kinds of stops with no luck. I could try a set of DuraLast pads up front to match the back and see.

Does anyone think the rock in the shoe lining is an issue?

Thanks again
 
I had that problem a long time ago on a 91 F150 4x4. The problem wound up being a binding e-brake cable. Rust/mud had taken its toll.
 
I just had similar brake issues with a 95 Mercury Sable w/ 4 wheel disk. (Rear brakes were binding at random) Couple things to check:

1. E-brake cables...make sure they move freely
2. I don't know if your taurus has it or not...but the sable's problem ended up being the suspension/brake valve (i don't know what that actual name of it is) in the rear brake lines. It is a valve block(aluminum) in the rear drivers side of the car that controls fluid pressure depending on rear suspension height. I guess it is to control braking power depending on the amount of weight in the rear of the car...? This valve was causing the fluid pressure to do some funky things with the rear brakes...sounds like what you are experiencing.

I don't know how to test the valve block...maybe someone can chime in who is more experienced with these brake systems.
 
My first reaction is that your front-to-rear mixing brands of tires, tire wear, AND brake lining materials is the cause of this problem.
 
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