Brake lines for a old truck?

[nthach]

I need to find brake lines for a 1992 Chevy Blazer full-size. Started to work on the rear brakes today - and saw brake fluid drip out of the fitting after installing a new wheel cylinder.

The jungle store and RockAuto doesn’t have kits. The other end of the fitting is seized on. What size and flare would a parts store have or where I can find a kit at?

 

[Nukeman7]

I'd look into replacing all of the hard lines with this pre-bent stainless steel kit. You'll never have to do it again with stainless steel.

Brake Line Kit

 

[bdcardinal]

Did you try Classic Industries or LMC Truck?

 

[Nessism1]

I'd look into replacing all of the hard lines with this pre-bent stainless steel kit. You'll never have to do it again with stainless steel.

Brake Line Kit

That's an extensive kit. Worth the money, I'd say.

Only thing, with so many lines, it seems likely that some fittings will be seized. The scope of the job may escalate once you get into it.

 

[nthach]

I'd look into replacing all of the hard lines with this pre-bent stainless steel kit. You'll never have to do it again with stainless steel.

Brake Line Kit

I’ll keep that in mind as a last resort.

I found this for the rear axle, but I have a feeling the long line between the axle and ABS modulator will snap off:

https://www.sstubes.com/products/tr...ck-non-dually-rear-axle-brake-lines-stainless

 

[Sumboodie]

Coil of ni-cop 3/16" and a tube flaring tool and ends will likely be what you'll need.
Amazon has kits for $30-50+.

Depending on how much you love the truck, either just fix what is leaking or looks about to leak... or redo it all.

Or the $$$ premade kits if it's a keeper.

Can do the older steel lines too, though harder to bend (generally need a bender) and they rust much quicker. The NiCopp is usually the go to in rust belt areas

 

[nthach]

Did you try Classic Industries or LMC Truck?

LMC didn’t have anything.

 

[D60]

I’ll keep that in mind as a last resort.

I found this for the rear axle, but I have a feeling the long line between the axle and ABS modulator will snap off:

https://www.sstubes.com/products/tr...ck-non-dually-rear-axle-brake-lines-stainless

I ordered from them for a 2nd Gen Ram 1500 rear axle. Good overall, but the kit failed to distinguish from the earlier wheel cylinders that have straight entry vs later that have angled entry.

I don't necessarily blame them as there are so many variations across all vehicles. I was able to correct it with some hand bending.

 

[JHZR2]

Just make some. I just did it. SS armor, nicopp line from FedHill, line nuts and unions from same. I like the Capri flare tool, and a small tubing cutter and deburring tool is all you need.

Post in thread 'Corroded and broken brake line - Planning on how to address?'

Jun 2, 2025

Normal, it takes a while for the pad to reach even pressure across the entire surface. Recheck in a thousand miles or so.

Thanks. I think the cars I’ve used these on in the past have all had pistons on either side of the rotor.

• JHZR2

 

[wtd]

I made all new rear lines that went from one rear wheel to the other rear wheel years ago for a 96 F-150. I bought the line and used a brake flaring tube and some connections and got it done. It wasn't the prettiest job, but it worked and never leaked.

 

[Lubener]

Since you are in California, road salt doesn't seem to be an issue. If you don't want to make them, I would just buy galvonized premade lines from from your local auto store. You can bend them yourself. If you measure the entire length and use a couple unions to join them. I don't see any reason to get stainless since your originals lasted 33 years.

 

[chorty]

brake lines are sooo easy.

$15 Tubing bender, and a $15 flare kit.

Tubing bender is only needed to make them look pretty.

Go niccopper. It'll bend like butter.

 

[Lubener]

brake lines are sooo easy.

$15 Tubing bender, and a $15 flare kit.

Tubing bender is only needed to make them look pretty.

Go copper. It'll bend like butter.

Nickle copper perhaps but never-ever pure copper for a brake line.

 

[chorty]

brake lines are sooo easy.

$15 Tubing bender, and a $15 flare kit.

Tubing bender is only needed to make them look pretty.

Go niccopper. It'll bend like butter.

Nickle copper perhaps but never-ever pure copper for a brake line.

i thought nickle copper was already mentioned? I fixed it so no one asks for pure copper at the front counter.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

You're gonna open a can of worms if you keep going further back, and back, and back. Keep it simple. Just stick to the area that's leaking. Piece it out with union's and some tubing. THEN, go back, and back, and back...light sand to clean it up , and hit it with undercoating spray to stop future corrosion.,,or you can hand paint the lines with caliper paint. I'm in NY, salt is MURDER on brake lines. I'm always spraying them or painting them

 

[chorty]

You're gonna open a can of worms if you keep going further back, and back, and back. Keep it simple. Just stick to the area that's leaking. Piece it out with union's and some tubing. THEN, go back, and back, and back...light sand to clean it up , and hit it with undercoating spray to stop future corrosion.,,or you can hand paint the lines with caliper paint. I'm in NY, salt is MURDER on brake lines. I'm always spraying them or painting them

Brakes are something i don't skimp on. Who cares how many worms, kill them all.
Every trailer i own has brakes
If it's multiple axles and has an idler, i added hubs and backing plates, and functional break-away.
After 26k air brakes are required, and those are the best (newer style). You have a leak, you don't move until it's fixed.

one brake line, they all get replaced. One caliper, they all get replaced.

 

[eljefino]

You can figure out the fitting you need by looking at the female connection on your wheel cylinders, hoses, and master cylinder. There's a variety, and NAPA sells adapters to the "standard" 3/8" inverted flare. The adapters are good in a pinch but it's more elegant to flare your own line, and put the appropriate nuts on.

Stainless is the hardest metal to work. The mild steel of "standard" line is easier, and Nicopp the easiest yet. Beware that brake fluid dripping down your arm is no fun, so have a plan to minimize "switch-overs" from old plumbing to new.

 

[Lubener]

i thought nickle copper was already mentioned? I fixed it so no one asks for pure copper at the front counter.

Glad you changed it.

 

[chorty]

Glad you changed it

is there a possibility of being banned?

 

[chorty]

Kunifer, don't use copper nickle, use Kunifer.

way safer.