Brake lights stuck on....brake light switch?

[The motor guy]

I resealed my brake booster about a month ago and the general consensus i got online was that you would need to replace the brake pedal switch afterwards. I didn't mess with it and left it in place and the lights still worked fine for a month until a few days ago I noticed the brake lights were on when the truck was off. Why did it take so long for the switch to go bad? I already returned the switch I had on hand since they worked, so I had to go back and buy it again lol

 

[HemiBenny]

You’ve had a run of bad luck here lately!
Hopefully, after you get this resolved, you’ll have a break from vehicle problems.

 

[The motor guy]

You’ve had a run of bad luck here lately!
Hopefully, after you get this resolved, you’ll have a break from vehicle problems.

Is there something else it could be? I just find it odd it worked okay for a month and it just now went out.

 

[oldcodger]

Inspect your brake pedal closely. On some vehicles the switch is a simple plunger that is activated by the pedal. I had one that had a rubber piece that contacted the pedal. The rubber piece had hardened and broke. I believe I repaired it by gluing a piece of leather with some super glue.

 

[The motor guy]

Inspect your brake pedal closely. On some vehicles the switch is a simple plunger that is activated by the pedal. I had one that had a rubber piece that contacted the pedal. The rubber piece had hardened and broke. I believe I repaired it by gluing a piece of leather with some super glue.

Its all plastic and one piece on this one. Not that big rubber mushroom thing at the very end. You install it then flip that switch on the side and that sets the distance for when the pedal is in its resting position is my understanding

 

[HemiBenny]

What vehicle is this on?

You never say what the vehicle is in all of your posts.

Is it the same Dodge trucks you’ve been having trouble with?

 

[The motor guy]

What vehicle is this on?

My 1999 dodge ram 2500 cummins 5.9

 

[Lubener]

Brake light switch or damaged shorted wiring.

I would like to know how you resealed your brake booster ? I never heard of that.

 

[oil pan 4]

There's a relay too in most if not all vehicles.

 

[97prizm]

I resealed my brake booster about a month ago and the general consensus i got online was that you would need to replace the brake pedal switch afterwards. I didn't mess with it and left it in place and the lights still worked fine for a month until a few days ago I noticed the brake lights were on when the truck was off. Why did it take so long for the switch to go bad? I already returned the switch I had on hand since they worked, so I had to go back and buy it again lol

Some brake pedal switches have a move able toggle on them. My neon did this a year ago. I had to push the switch back and it fixed it.

 

[repairman54]

Some are switches, some are sensors. Not sure on a Dodge. Sensor type may need to be calibrated as they work like a ''volume control'' measuring pedal travel. My old '09 Malibu did.

 

[The motor guy]

Brake light switch or damaged shorted wiring.

I would like to know how you resealed your brake booster ? I never heard of that.

Boost auto sells the oring kits for them. Disconnect the lines, take it off the firewall, remove the bolts to split it in half and replace the two seals. Cost me $25, well $50 if you include the switch.

 

[The motor guy]

Some are switches, some are sensors. Not sure on a Dodge. Sensor type may need to be calibrated as they work like a ''volume control'' measuring pedal travel. My old '09 Malibu did.

Ive heard they get out of adjustment if you push the pedal too far down. Not sure if that's true. Does not seem to affect my other dodge ram. I push the pedal to the floor to pump the brake fluid back into the calipers after a pad change and its never messed up the switch on that particular truck.

 

[The motor guy]

What vehicle is this on?

You never say what the vehicle is in all of your posts.

Is it the same Dodge trucks you’ve been having trouble with?

Each one has their own issues lol. This is my older one.

 

[Arc]

Unhook the switch and if the lights go off its the switch. Mine has some kind of warning on it about not reusing it but I did anyway.

 

[The motor guy]

Unhook the switch and if the lights go off its the switch. Mine has some kind of warning on it about not reusing it but I did anyway.

Same. It says one time use, but I left it alone when changing the hydro boost. You disconnect the brake pedal from the hydro boost plunger rod, but thsts not any different than just pushing the pedal down away from that switch

 

[Arc]

Boost auto sells the oring kits for them. Disconnect the lines, take it off the firewall, remove the bolts to split it in half and replace the two seals. Cost me $25, well $50 if you include the switch.

I looked everywhere for new diaphragms for the booster on my 05. I couldn't find anything.

 

[The motor guy]

I looked everywhere for new diaphragms for the booster on my 05. I couldn't find anything.

Its just two seals. No diaphragm

 

[The motor guy]

Unhook the switch and if the lights go off its the switch. Mine has some kind of warning on it about not reusing it but I did anyway.

I put the new switch on and the lights went off. All fixed

 

[mk378]

Its just two seals. No diaphragm

@Arc, the OP has a hydraulic booster since it's a diesel truck. Vacuum boosters used on gas vehicles (or diesel with a vacuum pump) are not considered field serviceable.