I have a '03 Ford Lightning w/ 48k miles and was thinking about flushing out the brake fluid. IS there any way to do this without Bleeding all the brake lines? Thanks
Brake Fluid Flush
- Thread starter FordSVT
- Start date
- Status
JHZR2
Staff member
Not sure exactly what youre asking... you bleed through each caliper as a means of renewing the fluid.
Suck out the fluid in the reservoir, fill with fresh. Preferably obtain a pressure bleeder, fill, pressurize. Open the furthest to the closest bleed screw, one at a time, and allow fluid to flow until it comes out fresh and clean. Beautiful, perfect and easy!
JMH
Suck out the fluid in the reservoir, fill with fresh. Preferably obtain a pressure bleeder, fill, pressurize. Open the furthest to the closest bleed screw, one at a time, and allow fluid to flow until it comes out fresh and clean. Beautiful, perfect and easy!
JMH
Nope! All the old fluid must be bled out from all four calipers -whether it's pulled out, pushed out or gravity bled. The sooner the better - 5 yr old fluid is shot.
Nope.
Suck out the reservoir contents and fill with new fluid. Use a vacuum or pressure bleeder and replace the fluid at each caliper in the correct order.
Follow up with a MANUAL (old-fashioned) bleed for the best pedal feel.
Suck out the reservoir contents and fill with new fluid. Use a vacuum or pressure bleeder and replace the fluid at each caliper in the correct order.
Follow up with a MANUAL (old-fashioned) bleed for the best pedal feel.
When doing a brake fluid flush, you want to get out the fluid that has absorbed water and is now in your brake lines or caliper. So as others have said, you need to bleed at each wheel after purging and refilling the master. One company (at least) sells different color brake fluid (of the same brake fluid) and you can put in your master cylinder and look for the new color. You can do gravity or pressure or vacuum, any way you like to like to get all the old fluid out.
You are in Florida and should not have any rusting of brakes lines from outside unless too close to the ocean.
You are in Florida and should not have any rusting of brakes lines from outside unless too close to the ocean.
Kestas
Staff member
Everyone posting above is correct. There are no shortcuts.
Isn't it important to have fresh brake fluid changes, ie every 2 to 4 years, especially if you have ABS? Regular brake flushing are a lot less expensive than replacing brake components and ESPECIALLY ABS componets. If I can't get help doing it it's still less expensive than replacing brake and ABS components to take it somewhere and have it done PROPERLY.
Whimsey
Whimsey
Just 5 years? I'm still going on the original brake fluid from 12-13 years ago (to the best of my knowledge).
Oops...then again I am going to get Motive bleeder, sometime.
Oops...then again I am going to get Motive bleeder, sometime.
This is interesting. I had a 93 Jeep Grand Cherokee that needed some brake work at around 130K miles. At the time I had recently sold my business so I was willing to let a Jeep garage in the Wilmington Delaware area work on it.
I asked if they would bleed the brakes, as it hadn't been done for almost 6 years. The service manager looked at me in horror and said something like, if it ain't broke we don't fix it. He had a big issue with bleeding that ABS system.
I said I understood his position and explained that bleeding that particular ABS system was not all that difficult. He would have none of it. So out I went and ended up fixing my brakes in the parking lot we lived at myself with a few borrowed tools from a neighbor.
I can agree to the if it ain't broke don't fix it theme. Been a service manager & mechanic for too many years. However and in some cases a little PM will go a long way.
You need to weigh the risks of not doing anything versus the other issues when doing something.
I asked if they would bleed the brakes, as it hadn't been done for almost 6 years. The service manager looked at me in horror and said something like, if it ain't broke we don't fix it. He had a big issue with bleeding that ABS system.
I said I understood his position and explained that bleeding that particular ABS system was not all that difficult. He would have none of it. So out I went and ended up fixing my brakes in the parking lot we lived at myself with a few borrowed tools from a neighbor.
I can agree to the if it ain't broke don't fix it theme. Been a service manager & mechanic for too many years. However and in some cases a little PM will go a long way.
You need to weigh the risks of not doing anything versus the other issues when doing something.
Kestas
Staff member
tpitcher, flushing the fluid certainly won't harm your system and can only help. It may delay any problems you may have with the master cylinder and calipers.
After 5 yrs in Minnesota, I suspect you'll probably have problems with the calipers seizing before you'll wear out the pads. Pads are only a small part of any brake job. If you find your truck starts braking unevenly, take it back in for service.
I heard a shadetree way to flush the ABS system is to first flush all the brake fluid, then run the car on a road in such a way as to activate the ABS system. This will at least dilute the old fluid.
After 5 yrs in Minnesota, I suspect you'll probably have problems with the calipers seizing before you'll wear out the pads. Pads are only a small part of any brake job. If you find your truck starts braking unevenly, take it back in for service.
I heard a shadetree way to flush the ABS system is to first flush all the brake fluid, then run the car on a road in such a way as to activate the ABS system. This will at least dilute the old fluid.
On my '03 Grand Prix GT, I just flushed the factory fluid yesterday. I've had the car for 2 years and have put 40k on it.
The old fluid was green! I started from the furthest and worked my way closest to the MC. Did it the old fashioned way and used DOT 3 stuff from Amsoil.
Can't tell any difference but I don't think brake fluid is supposed to be green.
The old fluid was green! I started from the furthest and worked my way closest to the MC. Did it the old fashioned way and used DOT 3 stuff from Amsoil.
Can't tell any difference but I don't think brake fluid is supposed to be green.
Yes, some cars get away with leaving the old stuff in. However, some cars quickly develop problems.
I replace brake fluid every few years, because it doesn't cost too much money, and it does improve pedal feel.
I replace brake fluid every few years, because it doesn't cost too much money, and it does improve pedal feel.
So the black-looking brake fluid that's likely the factory fill in my 99 LeSabre should be changed?
I did have a Hyundai that used brake fluid for the clutch hydraulics, and that fluid turned black in a week after flushing with new. All it did was push the release fork on the clutch.
I did have a Hyundai that used brake fluid for the clutch hydraulics, and that fluid turned black in a week after flushing with new. All it did was push the release fork on the clutch.
Originally Posted By: 1sparrow
Best to replace with synthetic brake fluid. It does not draw moisture as conventional brake fluid does. That is why it changes color with rust.Even draws moisture in a closed system.
ALL brake fluid is synthetic. It has been since the 30's.
Best to replace with synthetic brake fluid. It does not draw moisture as conventional brake fluid does. That is why it changes color with rust.Even draws moisture in a closed system.
ALL brake fluid is synthetic. It has been since the 30's.
Well, then he was right!
It IS best to replace it with a synthetic brake fluid!
It IS best to replace it with a synthetic brake fluid!
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked