Brake Fluid Flush and ABS

Sep 26, 2017
Under the Hood
I recently replaced the two 'front' Rubber Brake Hoses and Pads on my 2002 Ford Ranger.
I may have made the mistake of letting too much fluid drain from one of the lines (Reservoir did NOT go dry).
Haynes Book says, "Warning: if you let air into the system, you will need an expensive tool to fix".
I then flushed the Fluid thru all four Bleeder Screws (2x) using my Speedi-Bleed (Reservoir pressure setup).

The flush went well, but I'd like to get a 'higher' pedal.
Pedal goes down about 15-20% of travel before braking begins / similar to prior working on it.
I feel safe driving it, but could it be better ?

How can I be assured I have NO air in the ABS Modulator ? ? ?

The flush consisted of pressurizing the Reservoir and fluid came out all four Bleeder Screws.
When changing the Pads, I compressed the Caliper Piston and fluid went up into the Reservoir.
Either way, the fluid was traveling thru the ABS Modulator.

I always assumed the ABS Modulator was an 'open' system (until needed).

I would prefer not paying a Mechanic to check with his expensive tool (I feel safe driving it).
As an experiment, I could brake while on loose gravel / ice, and any air would expel thru ABS system and I could do another flush.

Just curious what extra precautions / problems people are having after changing Brake Hoses or doing a flush.

I also pulled the Rear Drums and cleaned, inspected, adjusted them.
Thanks for reading and commenting.
Last edited:
Apr 3, 2017
Ontario, Canada
Open the first brake bleeder, then use a piece of wood or something similar between the drivers seat and the brake pedal to hold the brake pedal to the floor. That will completely prevent brake fluid from draining out of the master.
Dec 4, 2019
Also, make sure you bleed from the calliper furthest away from the ABS module first, not the master cylinder (sometimes they are on opposite sides).