Brake Bleeders

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Dad and I are having a hard time bleeding the brakes in his Z so he's thinking about getting some sort of Mityvac bleeder. The bleeding orientation on these is a bit odd. Rear driver, then rear passenger.. then front passenger and front driver. The front and rear have their own brake systems (2 reservoirs). I can't see bleeding front or rear first mattering here because a pro to this setup is that something could blow and you'd still have brakes from the other system.

They make some that pull through each bleeder valve and they make a some that force pressure into the reservoir thus forcing fluid out each bleeder.

Do any of these styles have any pros or cons?

He's looking at this one in particular.
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV6840-Pr...ba0c90efcc102f2

Thanks.
 
I have both styles and the one forcing fluid into the MC is the better unit but for hard to bleed systems and clutches I use one of these.
The heavy duty version is a higher quality tool but way too expensive for DIY use, for occasional use this one will do the job fine.
This tool will do the job better than the others in some situations like some PITA clutches and air bound ABS systems without triggering the ABS unit with a scan tool.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GVFMRTY?psc=1

Edit: This tool is not for brake fluid flushing only removing stubborn air in the system.
 
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I use a 60 ml enema syringe, which was also made in Taiwan. Cost about 45 cents equivalent IIRC.

It'll obviously suck or blow.

Some folks say you can screw up your master cylinder blowing fluid into it, though I've always got away with it, and before I got a bit more cautious I applied as much pressure as I physically could.
 
Vacuum bleeding often pulls air in through the bleed nipple threads so I tried Gravity bleeding. It worked well enough using the newer low viscosity fluid.
 
" The bleeding orientation on these is a bit odd. Rear driver, then rear passenger.. then front passenger and front driver."

This was similar to the 1st Gen Dodge Neon. If you went underneath and looked, this bleeding pattern was logical because of the way the brake line were routed. On a straight line, the rear passenger is the farthest, but the way the lines came down the under body, the rear driver brake line was actually has the longest path to the wheel. Different, but not that unusual.

Sorry, not much help in the tool questions.
 
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Russell Speed Bleeders. One of the best investments I've made. Don't have to ask war department to assist anymore.


Or you could buy them from the patent holder, who manufacture them for Russell, at half the price.

Google "speed bleeders".
 
Originally Posted By: HosteenJorje
Russell Speed Bleeders. One of the best investments I've made. Don't have to ask war department to assist anymore.

I have these on the drums on the back of my F150. They need to be super tight to not leak fluid. Has that been your experience?
 
Originally Posted By: barryh
Vacuum bleeding often pulls air in through the bleed nipple threads so I tried Gravity bleeding. It worked well enough using the newer low viscosity fluid.

Vacuum bleeding does pull in air at the bleeder, but it doesn't matter because it is after the fact and not putting air in the system. I use a compressed air powered vacuum bleeder all the time and it works great pulling lots of fluid through the lines in no time. I just pull a pint through each bleeder and don't worry about the bubbles.
 
How are you doing it now? Nothing is better than 2 people assuming you have 2 people. And they know what they are doing.

What was replaced?

Did the master cylinder even run low on fluid and take in air?
 
How are you doing it now? Nothing is better than 2 people assuming you have 2 people. And they know what they are doing.

What was replaced?

Did the master cylinder even run low on fluid and take in air?
 
Originally Posted By: Traction
Originally Posted By: barryh
Vacuum bleeding often pulls air in through the bleed nipple threads so I tried Gravity bleeding. It worked well enough using the newer low viscosity fluid.


Vacuum bleeding does pull in air at the bleeder, but it doesn't matter because it is after the fact and not putting air in the system. I use a compressed air powered vacuum bleeder all the time and it works great pulling lots of fluid through the lines in no time. I just pull a pint through each bleeder and don't worry about the bubbles.


I thought it might pull air in at the bleeder from what I have heard other people say, so I would never buy one. Could not get any help recently for a two man, so I bought a pneumatic bleeder, and as of right now I am three for three bleeding, and doing fluid exchanges.
 
It's supposed to be nice this weekend. Maybe we'll give a gravity bleed a try and go from there.

How long should it be allowed to bleed out?
 
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Originally Posted By: tgrudzin
" The bleeding orientation on these is a bit odd. Rear driver, then rear passenger.. then front passenger and front driver."

This was similar to the 1st Gen Dodge Neon. If you went underneath and looked, this bleeding pattern was logical because of the way the brake line were routed. On a straight line, the rear passenger is the farthest, but the way the lines came down the under body, the rear driver brake line was actually has the longest path to the wheel. Different, but not that unusual.

Sorry, not much help in the tool questions.


My 92 Toyota pickup has the same bleeding sequence.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
How are you doing it now? Nothing is better than 2 people assuming you have 2 people. And they know what they are doing.

What was replaced?

Did the master cylinder even run low on fluid and take in air?


We are doing it the traditional way with a hose and a jar of fluid. He keeps the reservoir topped off, the brother pushes the brake and I run the wrench at the bleed nipple.

All hoses were replaced when the suspension had to be disassembled for new shocks.

*The MC ran low and took in air when everything was apart for a few weeks. Maybe there's more air?
 
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I have had a few over the years that wanted to be stubborn, and on those I had to resort to cracking open the lines at the master cylinder while doing a two man. Have plenty of rags because it will make a mess.
 
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