Brake Bleeder Question

[maverickfhs]

So I did brake fluid exchange yesterday in the Accord and one of the front and rear brake bleeder was very difficult to crack open, although I successfully exchanged the fluid.

Even after it was opened, still wasn't smoothly and was hard to turn.

Question is, can I remove them completely and use use some brake fluid on threads or anti-seize or it'll not be worth it?

Appreciate any advise and help

 

[Kestas]

The rust belt is really tough on brakes. Brake fluid won't help. I've used antiseize, silicone, teflon tape, and even rtv on bleeder screws. I can't say which is best.

 

[Trav]

+1 on never seize, remove the bleed screw clean it or replace it if rusty (the plating is gone) and put a thin coat of never seize on the threads only.

 

[maverickfhs]

Originally Posted by Trav
+1 on never seize, remove the bleed screw clean it or replace it if rusty (the plating is gone) and put a thin coat of never seize on the threads only.


So in order for me to completely remove the bleeder, would I introduce any air in the system? Or while one person is pushing the brake paddle I can quickly remove the bleeder valve and put anti seize and just put it back on?

 

[atikovi]

As soon as you loosen the bleeder it will start leaking fluid, so no, you won't introduce any air in the system. Just have the new bleeder in hand so you don't make a big mess or put a pan underneath.

 

[maverickfhs]

Thanks, I'll just go and get a few bleeder screws from a local parts store and just swap them for all 4.

 

[maverickfhs]

For some weird reason, I have drums on the back and don't see anything on RA for rear bleeders: RA

 

[KGMtech]

Originally Posted by maverickfhs
For some weird reason, I have drums on the back and don't see anything on RA for rear bleeders: RA


Try your Honda parts counter. RA can't carry everything...they would be like Costco, if it doesn't move enough units per month....they stop carrying.

 

[WyrTwister]

Were it me , I would buy new bleeder screws . I would be careful with the anti seize to insure none was introduced to the inside of the brake system .

Tip , try to use a 6 point socket or box end wrench to remove them in order to avoid rounding the head of the bleeder screw .

Note , I do not live in the rust belt . Thank God !

 

[maxdustington]

Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Were it me , I would buy new bleeder screws . I would be careful with the anti seize to insure none was introduced to the inside of the brake system .
You can just leave the last few threads clean.

The way the bleeders seem to operate is the tapered end of the bleeder seals against the corresponding taper in the caliper. In theory they brake fluid should never come into contact with the threads, and if it does make it there it will only be during bleeding. The threads are pretty high on the bleeder, and there is a 1/4" gap between the threads and the sealing surface of the bleeder.

I apply antisieze by spreading it on, and then aggressively wiping it off with a paper towel. I try to plate the threads with AS instead of a liberal application like you would a thread sealant.

 

[LazyDog]

Heat also helps to loosen them when they are tight.

 

[emmett442]

It's my experience that the bleeders corrode from inside out through the bleed hole.

After the job is done, it's my habit to lube the threads, tighten it down. Then, to prevent water/salt from getting down the bleeder, I stuff the hole full of grease and replace the rubber caps.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

Take a 'small' wire brush and clean around the Bleeder-Screws.
Use some penetrating Oil if needed.
I always apply some Anti-Seize around the Bleeder Screw when finished.

Make sure you have the Rubber Cap that fits over the Bleeder Screw.
If you don't have them, buy some.

What condition are your Brake Lines ?
I make sure I have a coating of GREASE on my lines, and to this day, they still look brand new.

 

[sloinker]

After you are done replacing the bleeders that have anti-seize on the threads and rubber caps on the bleed ends. Buy some cheap heavy bodied open gear/chain grease and cover the whole thing with it. Will take a few minutes to clean off in the future but keeps away the nastiness that causes the major headaches of broken bleeder screws.

 

[Omahaug]

I have experienced what you're saying. I find that liberally brushing where the threads with a steel or brass bristle brush ·even with the bleeder closed), then a squirt of penetrating oil and then it becomes very slick to operate. The resistance is also higher the first time you open it in a long time, once you work it and do your brake fluid changes regularly it doesn't happen as often.

Once I have it nice and slick and the bleeder torqued down, I like to take a tiny bit of some high temp grease and smear it where the threads meet up, just to keep any water from coming into contact with that area. I don't glob it and I don't put any on the actual threads or inside of the bleeder or something.

I don't know if actually taking the bleeder out will get you anything. Most of the time the threads are perfectly clean. Especially on Honda's I've yet to see one where anything was on the threads and I live where they salt the roads liberally. The calipers themselves are brown from rust but the bleeders are rust free at the threads and move freely.