Boom Lift Hydraulic Fluid or ATF

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I bought a used Condor ( Calavar / Time Corp.) 4x4 Boom lift (Man lift) Model RT48A. It was built in 1991. The company went out of business.

The operating manual says the Dexron II ATF should be used in it. The tank holds 35 gallons; and it’s full. The tank has labels just stating Hydraulic Fluid/Oil Only. The Deutz diesel engine drives a Sunstrand series L pump – variable displacement axial piston model L38 pump. Sunstrand Sauer Danfoss link. Page 11 has fluid. I found a pump manual online and it seems to indicate ATF is ok. The pump requirements call for a viscosity of 150 to 275 SSU at 100 degF. The machine has spring loaded hydraulically released brakes – I assume they are wet. I have to gain access to the nameplate to identify those. I don’t really know the machine history. It is 21 years old – the hour meter was not working when I got it and it shows 2800 hrs. Modern Lift has their decals on the machine – so it was a rental unit as one time. So they may have changed the fluid out to who knows what.

The hydraulic fluid in the tank is very milky. The existing fluid is tan in color. It smells like hydraulic fluid but has the viscosity of “thick water” – probably like ATF, just not red. I pulled a pint sample and after it set for 2 weeks it seemed to separate into 3 layers. The top layer (1/4”) looks like mineral oil (kind of clear/dark), the middle (1”) looks like UTF and the bottom (1/4”) has a little water dropping out and a white film is clinging to the bottom of the glass jar.
I was initially going to use UTF but being a 10W20 weight fluid, I think that is the wrong route and too heavy. Everything is pointing to go to ATF. I’m just concerned about mixing it with whatever it remaining in the system after I drain the tank. I did take a few ounces of the existing fluid and mix it 50/50 with UTF and another 50/50 sample with DexMerc ATF. They both seemed to mix well. After a few days, the UTF mix had more of a white film at the bottom of the container. The UTF also was rather milky still whereas the ATF looked a little cloudy. Why do they say not to mix hydraulic fluid and ATF? I assume it’s because if your system is looking for a 0W20 ATF fluid and you start dumping 10W20 UTF in it, things are going to change. It’s not going to foam wildly or be corrosive, right?

I have been reading many posts on here about ATF vs. Hydraulic oil and have learned some things. I’ve also been seeking out the most affordable ATF fluid. I need to buy probably 40 gal in 5 gallon pails to be able to safely change out the fluid once. I’ve been looking at Coastal’s #19509 product. Coastal is made by Warren Oil Products.

Warren Oil Products

Coastal's 19509 link

I found a place selling it “near” me (60 miles haha) for $50/pail. I have also verified that Warren does not produce Sam’s Club/Walmart products. Looks like SOPUS (Shell) still has their hands on that. I’ve seen mixed posts about that on various sites. I was also in my local Tractor Supply TSC looking at their stuff. They offer hydraulic fluids made by Cross Packaging / Cross Oil Refining. I am not familiar with these guys.

Cross Oil Products

Cross makes that Xtreme brand at TSC, Which I believe I’ve read some bad things about. I think that is their economy level tractor hydraulic fluid. I haven’t really noticed any people talking about Cross Packaging.

Just looking for some input here on putting ATF in the machine, etc. The machine does operate, and at times the hydraulic whine is pretty annoying. I don’t know if that is due to the oil/water mix or what the source is. I anticipate low usage hours to be put on the machine as I bought it for personal use. Once I drain the tank, I’m anxious to see the strainer and I plan to cut open the spin on filter to see what I will find.

Thanks!
 
MolaKule and I disagree in general on ATF in hydraulics; I feel there are many cases where it is superior ... but not in any case other than considering the application. A good AW will be better if the temperature is stable, no question.

ATF has a high viscosity index; good for equipment operated in the cold outdoors and run hot indoors.

ATF has detergents; bad for hydraulics, we want to collect and drain the water, not dissolve it

ATF tends to be a little more expensive all else being equal, but there isn't lots of difference there if you buy in 5 gal or 30 gal containers.

Your milkiness and free water are BAD. In industrial systems, we want an operating temperature above 105F or so to evaporate water that condenses on the reservoir lid and drips into the oil. There are water removal elements that can be used to clean up accidental ingression ... like a cap off in a rainstorm ... but their service life is short and they work best at very low flows.

DexII is, AFAIK, totally obsolete, but I know of no disadvantages to DexIII. (GM doesn't allow fluid to be sold as that, but many aftermarket products say they are "similar" or "compatible". I've had terrible experiences with Dex6 in older equipment ... and some newer too ... and recommending avoiding it.

After putting whatever you select in, I recommend working it hard with motion to get the temperature to maybe 135-150F for several hours, then inspect your fluid. If milky again, have an expert look at it.
 
Quote:
ATF has detergents; bad for hydraulics, we want to collect and drain the water, not dissolve it



I respect George's opinion.

However, ATF has about 1/5 the detergency of Hydraulic oils and you need the calcium compounds to keep internals clean and to provide rust protection. Most ATF's run from 150 to 300 ppm of calcium whereas hydraulic fluids run 1000 ppm to 2500 ppm, of calcium.

You may want to check the breather as well since it also provids an exit for moisture when the fluid get's hot.

In certain operating conditions there are situations where the fluid does not get hot enough to drive out moisture and it can cool such that pipes and other components can collect moisture.

I have also seen situations in which the fluid was never completely drained and replensihed but was simply topped off because of fluid leakage or seepage.

And one more thought: Most filters can remove a certain amount of water so change the filter often.
 
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Thanks to all for responding. I have not yet had a chance to do much with the machine, but have been continuing to research what to do. I have been wary of using ATF. I like the idea of using AW hydraulic fluid, and the ISO 46 looks like it would be a good match. The unit has a 35 gal tank, so once I drain that and replace with new, I'm anxious to see the difference. I put a drain valve with a plug in it (just in case) on the bottom of the hyd. tank to make draining free water easy. I probably run the machine once every 2-3 months. The last time I took it out was in the fall and the machine got real weak and would hardly move, this is after I was using it for a few hours. The hydr. fluid was hot, could not really touch the tank. I let it cool down and then was able to move the machine again. I do not think the machine has a hydr. cooler. The system spec is to operate at 2500 psi and not to use it if the fluid goes above 180F. I have not tested any system pressures. The filter on the machine is a match to Wix 51259. Is does not have a drain on the bottom. Also, the machine is now stored in my barn. I think the coldest weather I would anticipate using it in would be 32F. Most likely I would use it from 40 F to 80 F.. Because I don't care to work in weather to torture myself in.
 
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In your type of situation I normally give slfi a call (slfi.net). I've been working on equipment long before I switched fields and those guys have always been able to help. Sent them a fluid sample once for a project while I was back in college and they identified the fluid and sent me a compatible replacement.
 
I would recommend an HVI type ISO 46 fluid. If you get a more shear-stable fluid, that will improve your pump efficiency as well.
 
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