Block heater for a warm climate?

[73Chevy]

My daily driver is a 1973 Chevy truck with a 350, it's pretty cold blooded. I don't drive that far and it rarely gets a chance to get "hot". I also have to step on the throttle to start it cold, but not after it's warmed up. I get terrible gas mileage.

I was thinking about installing a block heater, even though the temps rarely get below freezing here. Something that would warm the engine to maybe 120 degrees before starting. This way I should save gas on cold starts and let it run a little warmer on my short trips.

Question is, what type of heater should I use and how many watts? I don't think I want to try and install the freeze plug type with the engine still in the vehicle. Then there are heaters that go in the lower radiator hose, and others that plumb into the heater hoses with a small circulation tank. And then there are the heat pad type of things that stick to the oil pan.

I was thinking about installing a 2000 watt circulating tank type that plugs into the heater hoses. This way I shouldn't have to plug it in for very long before starting. What do you guys think? Is that too much heat to be using when it's not freezing outside? Should I also think about some type of oil heater, or will a coolant heater adequately heat the oil too?

 

[Rob_Roy]

Skip the block heater and address the real issue...which seems to be the carburetor. Still running a Q-Jet? Ignition in good shape?

 

[Bluestream]

YOur truck has lasted 40 years, do you really think you need a block heater???

 

[73Chevy]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
YOur truck has lasted 40 years, do you really think you need a block heater???


LOL, the engine isn't that old. They weren't worried about gas mileage 40 years ago. Most people drive farther than I do, I'm always running rich 'cuase I'm always cold.

Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
Skip the block heater and address the real issue...which seems to be the carburetor. Still running a Q-Jet? Ignition in good shape?

Yeah...there's a lot of issues. I still need to check the timing and tune the carb. (Edelbrock) That said, even in the best of circumstances this truck gets bad mileage, so I'm looking for every little trick to help.

 

[Doog]

You can turn chicken salad into chicken poo but you can't turn chicken poo into chicken salad.....trade it in.

 

[73Chevy]

Originally Posted By: Doog
trade it in.

I'm going to be buried in this truck.

 

[oilboy123]

I would try the coolant heater, but make it real easy to plug in. Can't help on the best type. I don't think the style is that important. I would say the wattage is more important. I live in the Northwest. Not freezing like some places, but I might get a heater on something at some point. I just like the idea of quicker heat.............

 

[JimPghPA]

If it has the exhaust passage way that warms the choke it will be clogged by now. And if this is the case, getting that working will make a big difference on getting the choke to come off when it should. That will improve the performance and the MPG's.

 

[JimPghPA]

As for what type of a block heater, a Webasto Hydronic gasoline with the programable and radio start would be the gold standard. If you ever got rid of that vehicle you could pull it out and put in in the next one.

 

[73Chevy]

This is the block heater I want, do you think 2000 watts is too much? I'll have to install a dedicated outlet where I park for it...
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-13200-Alumini...033&sr=8-11

Do you think it would be ridiculous to put one of these heating pads:
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24250-Watt-Un...2758&sr=8-9
On my oil pan, transmission pan, transfer case, and rear axle to preheat all the oil and make it thinner? (they come in all different sizes)

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: 73Chevy
This is the block heater I want, do you think 2000 watts is too much? I'll have to install a dedicated outlet where I park for it...
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-13200-Alumini...033&sr=8-11

Do you think it would be ridiculous to put one of these heating pads:
http://www.amazon.com/Kats-24250-Watt-Un...2758&sr=8-9
On my oil pan, transmission pan, transfer case, and rear axle to preheat all the oil and make it thinner? (they come in all different sizes)


Check out Wolverine heaters, they probably have sizes to heat all the parts you want heated. I think heating the transfer case and differentials would be of no benefit to you unless you plan on moving to the Arctic Circle. JMO

 

[PZR2874]

Is it garaged in the winter? Or are these cold start-up's done in the open ?

 

[Bluestream]

Most factory block heaters are 500 watts. AT 2000 watts you will be blowing breakers. (unless its 220 volts)

 

[KrisZ]

Any fuel savings will be off set by the electric bill. 500 or 1000 watts is nothing to sneeze at when it's plugged in for several hours and that big iron block will need quite some time to get heat in.

 

[BigRich954]

I did the same thing or kinda same idea to heat up my older truck.

Do at least a 2000watt or it take to to long to see any change, you need a free 20 amp breaker. I had mine on a timer so it kicked on hour before i left for work.

i saved a little gas but i did it to have instant heat when pulling away.

 

[Rob_Roy]

Does the Edelbrock carb have a automatic choke? If so, is it functioning properly? Are you using an open element air cleaner?

Ignition timing, vacuum advance, and the fuel curve of the carburetor are all critical to getting good economy. If any of those items aren't correct, you will get poor fuel economy with or without a block heater...so spend your money on getting the engine in proper tune.

While you're at it, see what temperature thermostat is installed. Someone might have installed a 160 degree thermostat, and that sure won't help fuel economy.

 

[morris]

i have found that Edelbrock carbs are WAY out of tune from the factory. hint: first get a mettering rod that has the least difference in the diameter. then start changing the main jet, only a little at a time. NEVER CHANGE the jet ant rod at at the same time, you can NOT guess at what that change is if you change BOTH at the same time. but you CAN calculate the change by calculate the diameters. i wrote a program for my old Commodore computer to do that.

 

[73Chevy]

Originally Posted By: PZR2874
Is it garaged in the winter? Or are these cold start-up's done in the open ?

Lol, no, it won't fit in the garage. I park in my shop when I'm working and it's a much nicer drive home when it's been kept at ~50 degrees.

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Any fuel savings will be off set by the electric bill. 500 or 1000 watts is nothing to sneeze at when it's plugged in for several hours and that big iron block will need quite some time to get heat in.

Let's say two hours @ 2kw, that's 4KWH or about 36 cents. I bet I use more gas than that stomping on the pedal and letting it high idle for a minute or two.

Originally Posted By: Rob_Roy
Does the Edelbrock carb have a automatic choke? If so, is it functioning properly? Are you using an open element air cleaner?

While you're at it, see what temperature thermostat is installed. Someone might have installed a 160 degree thermostat, and that sure won't help fuel economy.

Yeah, it's got an auto choke and I think it's working correctly. I still need to read up a little more about the carb and give it a good check. I do have an open element air cleaner which I know isn't helping, but it should help it warm up faster, right?

I just installed a new 195* t-stat and it seems to run slightly warmer but it still never has a chance to get hot in the 2-3 miles (one way) I drive. One thing I notice is that the exhaust never has a chance to warm up and stop steaming.

Fogging in the cab is a big problem for me, lots of moisture here and no A/C to dry it. Takes the defroster forever to work.

 

[cp3]

Nice!...sharp looking truck.