Bleeded Clutch Slave Cylinder and Got Problem !

Messages
19,528
Location
Lake Forest, CA
Do the fluids exchange for my 11 years old Honda S2000 tonight. Coolant + Manual Transmission fluid + Differential fluid + Brake fluid + Clutch Slave Cylinder + Oil. Everything went smoothly without hitches. The Mityvac 7201 worked great extracting oil, trans and diff fluid and brake fluid. Drained coolant, refill with distilled water and let engine ran for 5 minutes then drained and filled with 1 gallon Peak Global Lifetime and top off with distilled water. Bleed all 4 brake in less than 5 minutes with 3/4 quart DOT-3 brake fluid. Bleed the slave cylinder clutch in less than 1 minute. After all fluids were finished test dove the car, everything works except the clutch engaged almost at the floor, it was near the the top of travel. Why the engage point changed after bleeding the fluid ? I don't any air is in the clutch system. Too tired to adjust the clutch now, will do it tomorrow after morning espresso.
 
Messages
24,208
Location
CA
I've seen this a lot on clutches. Try letting it gravity bleed for a while, then manual bleed the clutch with a helper. When the helper holds the clutch pedal, loosen/tighten the screw, then have them slowly release the pedal BY HAND. Once that is accomplished, wait 2-3 minutes before pumping the pedal again to build pressure. Once the clutch pedal feels normal, you can resume bleeding.
 
Messages
5,474
Location
Ohio
I have heard of two others having problems getting the air out after bleeding the clutch lines.It is very difficult. I have never bled the clutch on my 87 f150 and do not plan on doing so as long as everything works.
 
Messages
17,298
Location
OH
Try stomping the pedal a number of times. This shouldn't work but sometimes does. You'll see the air bubles in the clutch master resevoir. It did work with my old MGB and our '97 Accord.
 
Messages
17,298
Location
OH
This is what I was getting at. Pump the pedal with the bleed valve closed. This never works with brakes but often works with clutches.
 
Messages
2,063
Location
Jupiter, Fl
I ran into that with my G35 when trying to bleed with a vacuum. Now I hold the clutch down with one hand while I crack the bleeder with my other. My suspicions have been that vacuum bleeding lets air in around the threads, and/or having the slave cylinder at the bottom of it's travel with no spring to push it back results in it not retracting fully.
 
Messages
9,559
Location
Boston, MA
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
This is what I was getting at. Pump the pedal with the bleed valve closed. This never works with brakes but often works with clutches.
Worked for me on Volvo clutches. The early SAABS SHARED a reservior for clutch and brake. It was suggested that the SAAB guys figured if you had a brake leak and the clutch failed to work it would reduce the temptation to "limp" somewhere on the handbrake.
 

HTSS_TR

Thread starter
Messages
19,528
Location
Lake Forest, CA
Last year the master cylinder had a small leak, I ordered the replacement online and while waiting for it I adjust the engagement and it somehow fixed the leak and the engagement was at near the top instead of near the bottom. The clutch pressure is similar before bleeding, so I think there is no air in it. I will try to do some rapid pump then adjust the engagement point to see if it will stay that way. Bleeding the clutch is very easy and fast, the problem and time consuming is raise the car. Thank you all for your input.
 
Messages
1,555
Location
Oregon coast
I like to slowly depress the pedal with the bleeder open, close the bleeder, and repeat. Because clutch pedals typically stick at the pottom, its pheasible for one person to blead a clutch alone.
 

HTSS_TR

Thread starter
Messages
19,528
Location
Lake Forest, CA
I pumped the pedal several times then adjusted the plunger between master cylinder and the clutch pedal as in picture below, courtesy of suzukas2000 in S2KI.COM. I tried to adjust it several times and tested drive each time to get the right engagement that I prefer. The clutch engagement is now about 1.5" from the top pedal position.
 
Messages
22,187
Location
Colorado Springs
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Never pump the clutch when bleeding.push down,hold,crack open then close the bleeder while fluid is still coming out.repeat
+1; also, when you close the bleeder valve, make sure it's closed all the way, cause if it's not, when your assistant takes their foot off the pedal, air can get sucked right past the threads on the bleeder valve.
 
Messages
22,187
Location
Colorado Springs
Just make darn sure there is a slight amount of freeplay in the master cylinder pushrod; if there is any preload on it you can ruin the throwout bearing quickly.
 
Messages
84
Location
Littleton, CO
On the S2000, some have had to resort to unbolting the slave and rotating the bleeder to the top to get air out once it has been introduced. It seems unlikely that an adjustment was needed simply because a flush was done. Keep a close eye on it.
 
Top