Getting the generator ready for hurricane season. its a Blackmaxx 8,000 kw with a Honda GX390 13 hp. runs excellent, very reliable, and we have it converted to run off of natural gas. Whatwould be the best oil to run in this engine? I think it specs 10W30, i would go with either Rotella T or T5 10W30, or Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W40, or would the 5W40 be too thick? it only holds about a quart. I think with the natural gas hookup it burns much cleaner and the oil stays cleaner. so would the 10W30 be better than the 5W40?
blackmax honda generator
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Cujet post here on BITOG #1780297 - 02/13/10 11:06 AM
would be a good read. Cujet has several post here on BITOG about how good Mobil 15W50 is and in some of those post he wrote about neighbors air cooled engines not surviving in the Florida heat while his continue to run without problem with the 15W50.
There are many good oils. GC, Rotella T6 5W40, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, Mobil 0W40, Mobil 5W40, Mobil 15W50, Mobil V Twin 20W50 The thicker oils (50 weights) would be for HOT days.
Personalty I would stay away from Rotella T5 if it is still not JASOMA rated. Rotella T6 is JASOMA rated.
I keep GC in my two gen-sets, 5000 / 6250 Watt with Tecumseh 10 HP, and Generac inverter type 2000 watt.
However I also keep two quarts of Mobil V Twin 20W50, and two quarts of Mobil 15W50 for hot days.
There use to be an oil for air cooled engines that run on natural gas. I think RedLine made it, but I looked on their site and do not see it.
would be a good read. Cujet has several post here on BITOG about how good Mobil 15W50 is and in some of those post he wrote about neighbors air cooled engines not surviving in the Florida heat while his continue to run without problem with the 15W50.
There are many good oils. GC, Rotella T6 5W40, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, Mobil 0W40, Mobil 5W40, Mobil 15W50, Mobil V Twin 20W50 The thicker oils (50 weights) would be for HOT days.
Personalty I would stay away from Rotella T5 if it is still not JASOMA rated. Rotella T6 is JASOMA rated.
I keep GC in my two gen-sets, 5000 / 6250 Watt with Tecumseh 10 HP, and Generac inverter type 2000 watt.
However I also keep two quarts of Mobil V Twin 20W50, and two quarts of Mobil 15W50 for hot days.
There use to be an oil for air cooled engines that run on natural gas. I think RedLine made it, but I looked on their site and do not see it.
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I don't know how hard you run yours. But if you got an infared thermometer or even a contact one, I'd get an oil temp. Probably about 235'F would be the cutoff between a xw30 weight and a xw40. Run it under your worst case scenario for half an hour with load in the heat.
There's a thread here where Nick added an oil temp gauge and found it didn't get *that* hot.
I've non-contaced the cylinder heads of my air cooled v twin bike and they're about 205'F and the temp follows outside air temp linearly, like you'd expect.
I assume this genset has a low oil shutdown? That would be a necessity with a one quart sump, I think.
There's a thread here where Nick added an oil temp gauge and found it didn't get *that* hot.
I've non-contaced the cylinder heads of my air cooled v twin bike and they're about 205'F and the temp follows outside air temp linearly, like you'd expect.
I assume this genset has a low oil shutdown? That would be a necessity with a one quart sump, I think.
Get some Amsoil 4-Stroke oil and be done with it.
I run a quality HDEO 15w40 in my generator. Mid to upper 90's and humid. I have run the set for 10 hours once for a power outage. Not what you have in Fla., but a good enough test to satisfy me. I use the HEDO in my lawnmower (20hp B&S Intek single) that averages 2hrs. a week. Have used it for the last 3 years, excellent fuel economy, runs smoothly, plenty of power, no "sparkles" in the old oil.
yes it has low oil shutdown. i looked up the specs online, honda recommends a 10W30, 10W40, or a 20W40, 20W50. i mthinking of going with some T6, or some rotella T 10W30. being air cooled, would it hurt to run the 5W40 instead of the 10W30? im thinking the 10W30 being a little thicker on start up wont break down as fast.
From what I have read here on BITOG, with DINO (non synthetic) oils with a large spread between the two numbers have more molecules that will shear in rough use. And as far as Conventional oils go a mono weight will shear less. I do not know if it is true but there was one post that said that with Conventional oils a 10w30 is made by starting off with a 10 weight oil and adding modifiers to make it perform as a 30 when hot. The same post said that with a true synthetic like a 10w30 would be made with a 30 weight base that performs like a 10 when cold, and because it is not a 10 weight loaded with molecules to make it perform like a 30, it would shear less. Hence the reason why a true synthetic is preferred over a Dino.
For hot weather a mono weight 30 would hold up better than a multiple weight such as 10w30. If you want the cold flow of a multi-weight for easy starts in cold weather a true synthetic would hold up better than a low cost Dino of the same weight.
If you are going to use a multi-weight oil for an air cooled engine (which are rough on oils and cause them to shear unless they are oils that do not shear easily) stay away from low cost Conventional oils and go for a good true synthetic.
For hot weather a mono weight 30 would hold up better than a multiple weight such as 10w30. If you want the cold flow of a multi-weight for easy starts in cold weather a true synthetic would hold up better than a low cost Dino of the same weight.
If you are going to use a multi-weight oil for an air cooled engine (which are rough on oils and cause them to shear unless they are oils that do not shear easily) stay away from low cost Conventional oils and go for a good true synthetic.
Honda OHV air-cooled small engines have always been known to be designed around typical automotive parameters: using standard NGK BPR6ES resistor plugs, 10W30 multiviscosity motor oil, etc. unlike B&S flat-heads which are known to have their own designs (thus their issues).
With this in mind: I wouldn't hesitate to use 10W30 or higher viscosity grade automotive grade motor oil.
Also: I would strongly recommend you to reference to the factory manual for oil recommendations.
Q.
With this in mind: I wouldn't hesitate to use 10W30 or higher viscosity grade automotive grade motor oil.
Also: I would strongly recommend you to reference to the factory manual for oil recommendations.
Q.
The problem with stationary aircooled engines is not that they are improperly designed. Many of them, including Honda's are very well designed and manufactured. It matters not. It's simply that stagnant air and/or conditions can be favorable for overheating. It happened regularly here in Florida after the hurricanes. People would locate a generator against the house, block the noise with a car or two and create a situation where the engines were ingesting hot air. Other generators simply failed due to lack of oil changes.
It's my opinion that stationary emergency engines will operate in conditions that are impossible to predict. Often at temperatures the manufactures did not predict. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck is also a favorite choice of mine. Same goes for Amsoil products (however they are not readily available here)
I lost 2 Honda pumps this way. I learned my lesson. 10w30 is not good enough in such a situation. Whereas, Mobil 1 15W50 performs perfectly. I'll measure oil temperature next time.
It's my opinion that stationary emergency engines will operate in conditions that are impossible to predict. Often at temperatures the manufactures did not predict. Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck is also a favorite choice of mine. Same goes for Amsoil products (however they are not readily available here)
I lost 2 Honda pumps this way. I learned my lesson. 10w30 is not good enough in such a situation. Whereas, Mobil 1 15W50 performs perfectly. I'll measure oil temperature next time.
I've stuck a small fan next to a running generator just to help move air. On a bunch of 100 degree day the air is stagnant, and with most generators being in backyards with closed fences what little breeze is out there is killed.
It may not do much cooling, but it does help circulate the exhaust and help dissipate the exhaust smell.
It may not do much cooling, but it does help circulate the exhaust and help dissipate the exhaust smell.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Get some Amsoil 4-Stroke oil and be done with it.
Good oil I will admit. I have it in my generator which recently ran about 18 hours. I performed an oil temperature check at 14 hours. The ambient temperature was 93, oil was at 218-220. Can't complain about that, so I am a firm believer in the Amsoil ASE. Previous run was also analyzed and looked great.
Get some Amsoil 4-Stroke oil and be done with it.
Good oil I will admit. I have it in my generator which recently ran about 18 hours. I performed an oil temperature check at 14 hours. The ambient temperature was 93, oil was at 218-220. Can't complain about that, so I am a firm believer in the Amsoil ASE. Previous run was also analyzed and looked great.
Originally Posted By: tig1
I use Mobil 1 5w30 in my generator. This oil holds up very well in high heat conditions. Your engine builder has tested your generator in the worst of conditions with 10-30.
tig, I heard from somebody on here that Mobil 1 0w30 is also a good choice?
I use Mobil 1 5w30 in my generator. This oil holds up very well in high heat conditions. Your engine builder has tested your generator in the worst of conditions with 10-30.
tig, I heard from somebody on here that Mobil 1 0w30 is also a good choice?
Originally Posted By: Quest
Honda OHV air-cooled small engines have always been known to be designed around typical automotive parameters: using standard NGK BPR6ES resistor plugs, 10W30 multiviscosity motor oil, etc. unlike B&S flat-heads which are known to have their own designs (thus their issues).
With this in mind: I wouldn't hesitate to use 10W30 or higher viscosity grade automotive grade motor oil.
Also: I would strongly recommend you to reference to the factory manual for oil recommendations.
Q.
I use the BP6EV platinum version.
Honda OHV air-cooled small engines have always been known to be designed around typical automotive parameters: using standard NGK BPR6ES resistor plugs, 10W30 multiviscosity motor oil, etc. unlike B&S flat-heads which are known to have their own designs (thus their issues).
With this in mind: I wouldn't hesitate to use 10W30 or higher viscosity grade automotive grade motor oil.
Also: I would strongly recommend you to reference to the factory manual for oil recommendations.
Q.
I use the BP6EV platinum version.
do these things now have wet clutches?
otherwise why should we care about jaso rating?
after ike i heard lots of cheap gensets die off around here.most were harbor freight cheapies but the ones that held together got regular oil changes with m1 or some sort of hdeo.
these were the neighbors who had sense enough to listen to me.
my old(70's)generac ran 3 weeks non stop.Mobil 1 15w50.oil consumption slowed way down after the first week.m1 must have cleaned it up.it got top offs and a full change once a week.
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Cujet post here on BITOG #1780297 - 02/13/10 11:06 AM
Personalty I would stay away from Rotella T5 if it is still not JASOMA rated. Rotella T6 is JASOMA rated.
I keep GC in my two gen-sets, 5000 / 6250 Watt with Tecumseh 10 HP, and Generac inverter type 2000 watt.
However I also keep two quarts of Mobil V Twin 20W50, and two quarts of Mobil 15W50 for hot days.
There use to be an oil for air cooled engines that run on natural gas. I think RedLine made it, but I looked on their site and do not see it.
otherwise why should we care about jaso rating?
after ike i heard lots of cheap gensets die off around here.most were harbor freight cheapies but the ones that held together got regular oil changes with m1 or some sort of hdeo.
these were the neighbors who had sense enough to listen to me.
my old(70's)generac ran 3 weeks non stop.Mobil 1 15w50.oil consumption slowed way down after the first week.m1 must have cleaned it up.it got top offs and a full change once a week.
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
Cujet post here on BITOG #1780297 - 02/13/10 11:06 AM
Personalty I would stay away from Rotella T5 if it is still not JASOMA rated. Rotella T6 is JASOMA rated.
I keep GC in my two gen-sets, 5000 / 6250 Watt with Tecumseh 10 HP, and Generac inverter type 2000 watt.
However I also keep two quarts of Mobil V Twin 20W50, and two quarts of Mobil 15W50 for hot days.
There use to be an oil for air cooled engines that run on natural gas. I think RedLine made it, but I looked on their site and do not see it.
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