Now that you’ve had your Verve for a year, any updates or comments on ownership?
Bikes for comfortable recreational riding?
- Thread starter JHZR2
- Start date
JHZR2
Staff member
Nothing really to comment on. It has been great. We are able to go as a family of five, with my wife and my bikes, my oldest’s bike, a tagalong and a trailer. It works great and travels well enough in a minivan. No reliability issues or anything like that.
I use mine a lot for short errands too. Like in town errands to get some produce or take out.
I would like one of the fitness versions, or a gravel bike of some kind, for its lighter and faster design, but that would be for exercise. For family biking and errands, the verve has been great.
I stand by that I’d have preferred a 1x drivetrain. Many of the 2x gears are duplicative. But it’s not a big deal, you learn to ride it. But that would be a better setup.
I am still a little bit perplexed why the hell people always recommend upright riding positions for comfort.
Yes, to the uninitiated, this may look more comfortable. But it really isn't.
First, upright is inefficient. You have to work harder. Much harder. Second, an upright riding position takes weight off your hands and shifts it to your butt. This can become painful, it can even hurt you (when blood circulation is affected or pressure is applied to a nerve). Upright positions also are mechanically inefficient - they prevent you from using the glutes. Upright positions necessitate wide, plushy, saddles, which acerbate the "pressure" problem. A vicious cycle.
The keys to being cormfortable on the bike are:
- make sure that saddle is correct height
- get a good saddle that fits your hip bones and hip angle
- get road bars (allow for hand position changes - this prevents hand/forearm pain)
- adjust saddle position (forwards/backwards)
- play with saddle angle
- adjust stem lenght and bar height so that you can achieve a fast, aerodynamic and mechanically efficient position that is not putting to much pressure on either hands or butt
- train your core! You need a strong(ish) core to hold a good position and to transfer power. A weak core will lead to shoulder, neck and lower back pain on the bike. But not only on the bike: if you are to weak for cycling, then chances are you will run into trouble "in real life", too.
Apart from the first and the last point, all other are interdependent. So this takes some iterative testing (or some experience). On the OP's bikes I see horrendously plushy and wide saddles... maybe two new saddles and a bike fit would solve his and his wife's problems. Yes, a bike fit isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than another bike.
Yes, to the uninitiated, this may look more comfortable. But it really isn't.
First, upright is inefficient. You have to work harder. Much harder. Second, an upright riding position takes weight off your hands and shifts it to your butt. This can become painful, it can even hurt you (when blood circulation is affected or pressure is applied to a nerve). Upright positions also are mechanically inefficient - they prevent you from using the glutes. Upright positions necessitate wide, plushy, saddles, which acerbate the "pressure" problem. A vicious cycle.
The keys to being cormfortable on the bike are:
- make sure that saddle is correct height
- get a good saddle that fits your hip bones and hip angle
- get road bars (allow for hand position changes - this prevents hand/forearm pain)
- adjust saddle position (forwards/backwards)
- play with saddle angle
- adjust stem lenght and bar height so that you can achieve a fast, aerodynamic and mechanically efficient position that is not putting to much pressure on either hands or butt
- train your core! You need a strong(ish) core to hold a good position and to transfer power. A weak core will lead to shoulder, neck and lower back pain on the bike. But not only on the bike: if you are to weak for cycling, then chances are you will run into trouble "in real life", too.
Apart from the first and the last point, all other are interdependent. So this takes some iterative testing (or some experience). On the OP's bikes I see horrendously plushy and wide saddles... maybe two new saddles and a bike fit would solve his and his wife's problems. Yes, a bike fit isn't cheap, but it's cheaper than another bike.
Last edited:
Listen to @turboseize he knows what he's talking about
Any pointers for older folks with sore wrists?
My right wrist in particular gives me hell.
My right wrist in particular gives me hell.
Last edited:
Big picture. Aluminum rides stiffer than steel. Bikes with shocks are also available. Talk to your bike shop.
Gloves - you should try different paddings. Also watch your hands - is there a "bend" at the wrist? If so, try to straighten that. And third, test changes to the handlebar - sometimes a slight difference in angle (swept forward, backward, straight...) can break or make a position. You could also play with different grips (diameter, form..,) on a MTB or with a different bar tape and repositioning of the hoods/brake-shift-lever on a road bike. Sometimes, new grips on a straight bar can shift the actual grip angle ever so slightly. If you are riding an MTB, you could also try bar ends.
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2022
- Messages
- 5,528
I did the opposite - I changed my stem, handlebars, seatpost and saddle to give myself a much more upright riding position. I am not looking for mechanical advantage or efficiency, I am out to see the world and get some exercise. If I need to actually get somewhere I usually just take my truck
Some day I will fly out to California and have Rivendell cycles custom build a bike for me.
JHZR2
Staff member
Another possibility is body position. Sore wrists may be a sign that you're putting too much weight forward on your hands and bars. If so, try shifting your weight back and supporting your torso with core muscles instead of putting all the weight on your hands.
