Bicycle Tire Watt Requirements

... I understand, but I'm saying unless you get super-extreme (glass-smooth velodrome or cooled magma flows), that's actually not correct and I provided a link with evidence of that.
Do you have any links I could look at that summarize or explain your position?
My point, "it depends on the surface", is unchanged and simple. It follows naturally when one understands the 2 basic principles at work, mentioned above, which we both agreed. Here's another way to say it by example that may be more clear.

Pick a tire, for example the Conti GP5000 S TR in 700c. It comes in widths from 25 to 32 mm. Pick any 2 of them, like the narrowest and widest at 25 and 32mm. We can find a surface where the 25 is faster and more efficient - it's going to be very smooth. We can find a surface where the 32 is faster and more efficient - that surface is going to be rougher.

If my position seems obvious, in my defense it seemed worth saying because my first post was #6 and up to that point nobody had mentioned it.
 
I subscribe to bicyclerolling resistance and have tried so many tires....I have not had great luck with rene hersey tires as too many flats...I do currently have two sets mounted now on 26" wheels the naches pass and rat trap passes on my all around bike ...I will give up some rolling resistance to my Conti GP5000's in 700x32 with aerothan tubes and not worry about flats.
Over 40 years of cycling I can say that tires today are so much better than what we had in the 1980s, there's just no comparison. Back then, fast tires were so fragile you'd get flats just by thinking about sharp objects. Durable tires were so slow the bike felt like a truck. Back then on a century or all-day ride on fast tires, odds were even whether I could get through without a flat. Today, the Conti GP 5000 tires (in their various forms) are the best I've ever ridden. Compared to back then, they are faster, grippier, smoother (lower pressures yet without pinch flats), and at least 10x more durable - I can ride a few thousand miles between flats, which is effectively the useful life of the tire.
We are so spoiled today, and that's a good thing.
 
Over 40 years of cycling I can say that tires today are so much better than what we had in the 1980s, there's just no comparison. Back then, fast tires were so fragile you'd get flats just by thinking about sharp objects. Durable tires were so slow the bike felt like a truck. Back then on a century or all-day ride on fast tires, odds were even whether I could get through without a flat. Today, the Conti GP 5000 tires (in their various forms) are the best I've ever ridden. Compared to back then, they are faster, grippier, smoother (lower pressures yet without pinch flats), and at least 10x more durable - I can ride a few thousand miles between flats, which is effectively the useful life of the tire.
We are so spoiled today, and that's a good thing.
amen..I too have over 40's years cycling and I remember well how fragile tires were. Conti gp5000's have been pretty awesome indeed..as have a few others but it is nice being able to wear out a set of tires due to miles not holes thru the tire....Schwalbe Aerothan tpu tubes are also the greatest thing too. feel like latex but stay aired up and tough and light.
 
My point, "it depends on the surface", is unchanged and simple. It follows naturally when one understands the 2 basic principles at work, mentioned above, which we both agreed. Here's another way to say it by example that may be more clear.

Pick a tire, for example the Conti GP5000 S TR in 700c. It comes in widths from 25 to 32 mm. Pick any 2 of them, like the narrowest and widest at 25 and 32mm. We can find a surface where the 25 is faster and more efficient - it's going to be very smooth. We can find a surface where the 32 is faster and more efficient - that surface is going to be rougher.

If my position seems obvious, in my defense it seemed worth saying because my first post was #6 and up to that point nobody had mentioned it.

Actually, that restatement is clearer, so I do think I understand it better. And that understanding gave me some pause because I had to think about it a bit as it put a different light on my original point.

If I could re-summarize and add your point in post #6 that people are (presumably unwisely) "disregarding it," I believe you are saying:

--Surfaces vary (true on normal roads most people ride on).
--Each surface has an optimal tire width/pressure (this is true per physics)
--Therefore, tire choice should consider surface roughness (not unreasonable), and people are disregarding that (true)
--Rather than matching tire to surface, people sometimes overgeneralize “wider is better” (true, and it's exactly what I do)

So, all of that is completely true, and it is addressing the question of my OP at a higher-principal level in order to constrain the lower-level individual cases. This is highly rational and exactly the approach I always tend to take-- so I gotta respect that!

So, I had to think a bit on why I'm going against your (totally correct) set of principles as I am indeed saying that "wider is virtually always better (or, at least no worse)." It's like my point disagrees with your principles but I can't really contradict any of them.

But here is the resolution of the apparent contradiction: My contention is not that you are wrong, but that the wider tires cover enough of the range of surfaces such that there is no need for the granular level tire/surface matching possibility that your principles correctly states exists, but I contend are not needed.

So, I would say:

--Yes, every surface has an optimal tire width.
--But the range of road surfaces cyclists actually ride is narrow enough that 35–48 mm supple tires are optimal or equal to any "matched" tire across the entire real‑world spectrum.
--The surfaces where narrower/fat tires are faster are so smooth/bumpy that they don’t really exist in normal road riding.
--So, the general principles you state are totally true, but in practice wider tires cover everything without penalty
--Thus, your principles, while true, are mostly moot on real roads if one simply chooses wider tires

So, with that, I don't contradict any of your principles but rather contend that wider tires cover all the bases such that it is actually fine to "disregard" the issue.

In any relevant situation for the normal road cyclist riding on typical surfaces, wider is better (in any practical sense). This is what the data say, and this is why they trump (not refute) the point you were making.

Note that your point is one of the best I've encountered on this forum, so good on you for that!
 
Over 40 years of cycling I can say that tires today are so much better than what we had in the 1980s, there's just no comparison. Back then, fast tires were so fragile you'd get flats just by thinking about sharp objects. Durable tires were so slow the bike felt like a truck. Back then on a century or all-day ride on fast tires, odds were even whether I could get through without a flat. Today, the Conti GP 5000 tires (in their various forms) are the best I've ever ridden. Compared to back then, they are faster, grippier, smoother (lower pressures yet without pinch flats), and at least 10x more durable - I can ride a few thousand miles between flats, which is effectively the useful life of the tire.
We are so spoiled today, and that's a good thing.

amen..I too have over 40's years cycling and I remember well how fragile tires were. Conti gp5000's have been pretty awesome indeed..as have a few others but it is nice being able to wear out a set of tires due to miles not holes thru the tire....Schwalbe Aerothan tpu tubes are also the greatest thing too. feel like latex but stay aired up and tough and light.

Nearly 50 years for me and definitely agree with all this-- and it's not just tires.

I'm mostly a retro-bike kind of guy, but I don't contend that's necessarily better. Pretty much every component on modern bikes in improved over the old stuff, I just happen to like the charm and memories of the old stuff.
 
... I would say:

--Yes, every surface has an optimal tire width.
--But the range of road surfaces cyclists actually ride is narrow enough that 35–48 mm supple tires are optimal or equal to any "matched" tire across the entire real‑world spectrum.
--The surfaces where narrower/fat tires are faster are so smooth/bumpy that they don’t really exist in normal road riding.
--So, the general principles you state are totally true, but in practice wider tires cover everything without penalty
--Thus, your principles, while true, are mostly moot on real roads if one simply chooses wider tires

So, with that, I don't contradict any of your principles but rather contend that wider tires cover all the bases such that it is actually fine to "disregard" the issue.
Succinctly put, and our disagreement boils down to different assessments of typical road surfaces. You believe in always using the widest tire that will fit on the bike/wheel because no surface in the real world (even smooth pavement) is smooth enough for a narrower tire to be faster or more efficient. I think some paved roads in the real world are smooth enough to favor a tire that is a bit narrower than the widest that will fit.

Either way, the key point is that the most efficient tire is wider than most people expected a few years ago. Our difference is a question of how much wider and what are the pragmatic limits / trade-offs.

Note that your point is one of the best I've encountered on this forum, so good on you for that!
It's nice to debate a topic cordially, even if it drags on long enough to risk belaboring the point. 😜
 
I build lugged steel road frames as a hobby. Back when I started, in the 1990's, 23c tires were the norm, and I built accordingly. My last frame was built in 2018, and it has more clearance. It was built around a carbon fork, though, which doesn't.

I've got a couple different steel fork "kits", which I plan to build up, so I can move to 30C tires. My desire is largely based on improved ride comfort, not speed. While I like speed, of course, comfort trumps that. This thread is providing some motivation, thanks for that.

P1040219 by nessism, on Flickr

Picture136 (1) by nessism, on Flickr
 
Succinctly put, and our disagreement boils down to different assessments of typical road surfaces. You believe in always using the widest tire that will fit on the bike/wheel because no surface in the real world (even smooth pavement) is smooth enough for a narrower tire to be faster or more efficient. I think some paved roads in the real world are smooth enough to favor a tire that is a bit narrower than the widest that will fit.

Either way, the key point is that the most efficient tire is wider than most people expected a few years ago. Our difference is a question of how much wider and what are the pragmatic limits / trade-offs.

Agree with all that!


It's nice to debate a topic cordially, even if it drags on long enough to risk belaboring the point. 😜

Agree with this as well but note that I personally do not consider "point belaboring" to be a bad thing. I believe that complex, contentious issues can only be fruitfully addressed through long, deep debate over a long period of time.

Some people enjoy the participation in long-term debate, and others don't (and thus declare it to be belaboring). I never am dismissive of anyone who does not enjoy long-term, deep debate as people are different in their level of tolerance for that, and that's fine.

But I do get frustrated at those who don't like extended debate exercising a "bickering veto" as I see that as one group forcing their preference on another. Thus, the purpose of this thread is to allow as much point belaboring as desired by those who desire it.

So, all point-belaborers are welcome here, and can discuss as deep and as long as they want. Non-point-belaborers are welcome to dip in and out as they desire.

Thanks again for your contribution-- I'm a high-level theory guy, and it's not often that I get paused by high-level theory like what you based your argument on.
 
I build lugged steel road frames as a hobby. Back when I started, in the 1990's, 23c tires were the norm, and I built accordingly. My last frame was built in 2018, and it has more clearance. It was built around a carbon fork, though, which doesn't.

I've got a couple different steel fork "kits", which I plan to build up, so I can move to 30C tires. My desire is largely based on improved ride comfort, not speed. While I like speed, of course, comfort trumps that. This thread is providing some motivation, thanks for that.

Really nice!

From 1994-2010, building up 1970's UJB frames (of any name-- Nishiki, Centurion, etc., etc.) was a huge hobby for me, and my whole basement looked like the repair area of a bike shop.

Really fun, but I had a major advancement at work and I also moved, so everything bike related got packed up and stored in the new place. A second major advancement at work means that everything is still in those boxes to this day.

But I recently retired and am getting a number of old hobbies back up and running, with the bike work being one of them. Hope to have it all going again this year.

So, this thread is providing the same motivation for me as it is for you!
 
Nearly 50 years for me and definitely agree with all this-- and it's not just tires.

I'm mostly a retro-bike kind of guy, but I don't contend that's necessarily better. Pretty much every component on modern bikes in improved over the old stuff, I just happen to like the charm and memories of the old stuff.
I have a sort of retro bike along with a endurance carbon fiber bike. I have done many long rides on both ie 50-100 miles and surprisingly there is not an earth shattering time difference on a longer ride..I mean if it were a race yes it would be a lot but for general just riding hard not a terrible difference. on my orange bike I switch between RH natches pass, rat trap pass's and some 1.5 panaracer paselas. (RH is made my panaracer) and over all times on the same course are close within a minute or so on a 50 mile ride pushing it.

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I have a sort of retro bike along with a endurance carbon fiber bike. I have done many long rides on both ie 50-100 miles and surprisingly there is not an earth shattering time difference on a longer ride..I mean if it were a race yes it would be a lot but for general just riding hard not a terrible difference. on my orange bike I switch between RH natches pass, rat trap pass's and some 1.5 panaracer paselas. (RH is made my panaracer) and over all times on the same course are close within a minute or so on a 50 mile ride pushing it.

Sorry-- premature post in that last message!

Beautiful bikes, and it's seriously cool to have a mix of old and new like that.

Don't see the moustache bar and bar ends all that often these days-- I have that set up on a 1989 BS RB-1.

What chainrings are you running? They look close in size (which is what I run myself).
 
... I'm mostly a retro-bike kind of guy, but I don't contend that's necessarily better. Pretty much every component on modern bikes in improved over the old stuff, I just happen to like the charm and memories of the old stuff.
I generally agree, though some bike stuff isn't designed or built with as much durability as it used to be.

One obvious example is the Shimano cranks debacle. In days of yore they were were forged from a single piece of metal and they last forever. Then Shimano started gluing them together to make them a few grams lighter (and probably a few pennies cheaper). We all know what happened next.

Another example: my MTB rear hub. Back in 2020 when it was about 5 years old I was riding in the desert near Moab when climbing up a hill, the pedals "broke free" and made a horrible clacking sound. Turns out the freehub pawls had worn, sheared and were slipping. I spent the next several hours hiking out while pushing my bike. I have freehubs from the 80s and 90s with thousands of miles, still working like new. But the pawls in my MTB were made of an alloy, not steel - when I saw that I couldn't believe my eyes. Who would ever make such a small highly stressed part out of a soft alloy? Reynolds (the hub maker) thought they'd save a few grams of weight (or cost!) at the expense of reliability and durability. A couple of years (and replacement pawl sets) later, the hub failed again in a different way: the axle snapped in half, stranding me on another ride (a gravel ride - the axle wasn't heavily stressed). Same root cause: the axle was made not of steel, but some kind of lighter/cheaper alloy.

A year later, the hub failed again with the same pawl symptoms yet in a different way. Over the years, the forces from miles of hill climbing distorted the pawl pockets machined into the hub, so the pawls could no longer fully engage. A pic's worth 1000 words - see the blue arrows below:
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There is no fix for that, since the pawl pockets were machined into the aluminum hub ( *** ?!) My solution was to rebuild the wheels onto a set of new hubs - DT Swiss 350. Several years and a few thousand miles later, they're still good - fingers crossed.

I don't mean to pick on Shimano and Reynolds. Once when I was reinstalling the crank arms (SRAM XX1) after servicing the bottom bracket, the crank arm bolt head sheared off at half the recommended torque. Same problem - it was made from some kind of aluminum alloy. Again, it's a high stress part so why not make it out of steel so it lasts a lifetime? It would only be a few grams heavier. Instead they use aluminum alloy and it's a "single-use" bolt. <sigh>

All that said, I still think modern bikes are great: more efficient, faster, more comfortable, etc. One just has to be aware that some parts that used to be "lifetime" are now "consumable".
 
I generally agree, though some bike stuff isn't designed or built with as much durability as it used to be.

All that said, I still think modern bikes are great: more efficient, faster, more comfortable, etc. One just has to be aware that some parts that used to be "lifetime" are now "consumable".

Yeah, you've summed it up well.

I would say that there is no doubt that there are plenty of examples of newer systems coming out that were either terminally flawed from day 1 or were an ok idea but had a number of false starts in implementation. This was also true throughout the "old days" as well (e.g., indexed shifting took a few attempts to get it right).

But it does feel as though as time progresses, we are left with the results of a very long Darwinian process, and while new variants arise every day that may or may not survive, the technological base that has survived natural selection is, I think, pretty good.

Tires were mentioned, and I think that's a good example. I'm a freewheel guy, but the cassette system is clearly better. Most of my bikes have quill stems, but clamp-on is better. All my bikes have rim brakes, but probably disc is better.

Probably the best of all worlds is to be as modern as possible, but firmly toward the trailing (rather than the leading) edge of bike technology. "Modern but tested."

But I'll be sticking with the old stuff as I just prefer it. E.g., I still shoot analog film, specializing in Ikonta folders from the early '50s and my regular use (i.e., non-nostalgia) office apps are WordPerfect and Quattro Pro for DOS.

While all of that stuff works well and are all very reliable, none of it is better than the modern alternatives-- old stuff is just my vibe.
 
Sorry-- premature post in that last message!

Beautiful bikes, and it's seriously cool to have a mix of old and new like that.

Don't see the moustache bar and bar ends all that often these days-- I have that set up on a 1989 BS RB-1.

What chainrings are you running? They look close in size (which is what I run myself).
34/50 on the canyon and 42 on the XOXO it is Bridgestone XO-1 clone. I always wanted one when they came out but could afford one so a few years ago Handsome cycles did a run of them I grabbed one. I was into Bridgestones in the 80-s early 90's....loved the RB1. I gave my brother in-law my MB1 in the early 90's and it is still mint I don't have the heart to ask for it back but I know it has not been ridden much since I gave it to him.
 
I have a sort of retro bike along with a endurance carbon fiber bike.
From 1994-2010, building up 1970's UJB frames (of any name-- Nishiki, Centurion, etc., etc.) was a huge hobby for me, and my whole basement looked like the repair area of a bike shop.
Meet Frankenbike:
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I inherited my brother's old Trek 330 from the 1980s. It sat collecting dust for a few years because I didn't know what to do with it. Then I remembered I still had the old Mavic E-2 rims from the Vitus 979 that I raced in the 1980s (back in the day I rebuilt those wheels onto G40 rims which were stronger). And I like internally geared hubs. So I converted that old Trek to a "single-speed". I got a 2-speed kickback hub (no shifter needed) and built new wheels with the old E-2 rims. You ride in high gear most of the time, then backpedal 1/4 turn to shift the hub into low gear for hills. It's a fun vintage city bike, with moustache bars of course! Comfortable if you like upright riding positions, and surprisingly fast/efficient on 700x32 Gatorskin tires.

Every year or two I end up resurrecting some kind of vintage bike for family, friends or neighbors. Feels good to get them back on the road and keep them out of landfills.
 
bridgestones circa late 80's...mb0 was a little too light for a big guy.. my early 90's Serotta ATX (serial number 007 to go with the british racing green) that I will eventually turn into a single speed.. it is currently an 8 speed in back back but want to do a single speed freewheel as I'm not sure my knees will handle a fixie these days.I remember being amazed at what you could do in moab on a mountain bike...
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