Better than Auto-RX
- Thread starter Steelhead
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I'll not pass any judgement on it's ability or inability to clean any better or worse than Auto RX. I will however commment on my observation that is some toxic stuff!
Steelhead how can you compare the #1 ecological metal cleaner in the world? With a solvent strong enough to clean paint? Let me know how your application is cleaning and how your car is running in 30 days-60 days- 90 days.
Sure you will use this product won't you ?
Nothing out performs Auto-Rx nothing.
Sure you will use this product won't you ?
Nothing out performs Auto-Rx nothing.
Just read the hazards. That tells you how safe this stuff is.
Oh yeah that stuff will kick Autorx's budt, put them out of business, force them to hide in the bushes like a bunch of little girls, lol. I think there are a lot of products that will clean faster than Autorx because they use harsh cleaners, but better? Dunno, but I like the idea of having a slow effective cleaning as opposed to having a heavy solvent cleaning. Not saying a fast cleaning isn't effective persay, but what will that do to the internals and filters. Just personal preference I guess but I feel comfortable with Autorx..
JHZR2
Staff member
I think the whole point of Auto-RX was to be able to safely avoid all the toxic substances that are not friendly to people or the environment. OK, great, there isa stronger solvent that will clean up sludge and junk... great. What does that do for me?
IMO, nothing. Sure it may be a fast clean solution, but at what cost? errosion of bearing materials? exposure to stuff that should be avoided at all costs?
Auto-RX has been proven in multiple applications to work well and as described. It claims to be a slow, thorough cleaner, which is important - slow and steady wins the race in terms of safety, and usually efficacy as well...
JMH
IMO, nothing. Sure it may be a fast clean solution, but at what cost? errosion of bearing materials? exposure to stuff that should be avoided at all costs?
Auto-RX has been proven in multiple applications to work well and as described. It claims to be a slow, thorough cleaner, which is important - slow and steady wins the race in terms of safety, and usually efficacy as well...
JMH
"Benzenesolfonic Acid".....that does it for me, its never getting near my engine. I am sure it will clean, but as Frank said, how will your engine be working after it? And for how long? Running acid in the oil doesn't sound like the best of ideas.
Interesting topic header, " Better than Auto-Rx". Any real proof? Not likely is my guess.
Stupid post. Any test results? Data? Anything? What a waste of 30 seconds.
Gee, would you need a haz-mat escort?
I think this string should just go away.
Not sure you can compare with AutoRx. Apples to oranges sort of thing. However, this Winns stuff might be good. So it has a little acid in it? So does Schaeffer's Neutra 131. Problem is it is very difficult to determine if any of this stuff works.
It is not difficult to see if any of ths stuff works. Can't believe you said that.
JHZR2
Staff member
I was having a discussion with a friend today regarding engine operation and engine cleanliness. He is an engineer though claims to know nothing of IC engines, maintenance, or about cars in general. He drives a toyota, and so I was explaining sludge and whatnot (not that he has a sludger, but it was just an interesting lunch conversation). I was telling him about additives and cleaners, and he brought up an interesting point:
the way that they clean old buildings is through a very slow process... the thinking is that the dirt got on the surfaces very slowly, so it should be removed slowly and gently. He drew an analog to sludge or varnish in an engine, and said before I explained it that he thought that an engine should be cleaned of sludge or whatnot slowly, as that was how it was formed (I think we were talking about dealerships selling flushes and chemical cleaners at this point).
He was right... junk forms slowly, it should be cleaned slowly. That is the general idea of Auto-RX. Fast cleaning isnt always the name of the game. The problem is that in our 'instant gratification' oriented society, not seeing a response immediately is equivalent to seeing no response at all, ever.
JMH
the way that they clean old buildings is through a very slow process... the thinking is that the dirt got on the surfaces very slowly, so it should be removed slowly and gently. He drew an analog to sludge or varnish in an engine, and said before I explained it that he thought that an engine should be cleaned of sludge or whatnot slowly, as that was how it was formed (I think we were talking about dealerships selling flushes and chemical cleaners at this point).
He was right... junk forms slowly, it should be cleaned slowly. That is the general idea of Auto-RX. Fast cleaning isnt always the name of the game. The problem is that in our 'instant gratification' oriented society, not seeing a response immediately is equivalent to seeing no response at all, ever.
JMH
I consider pulling the valve covers or oil pan difficult. Looking down the oil filler hole is probably not a very representive sample, but that is all I was willing to do. For that, nothing I have tried has done that much cleaning (mostly varnish and blackish deposits), not NAPA Mac's Engine Flush, not Neutra, not AutoRx, not a quart of Redline mixed in. But as I say, that is not a representive sample, because I could not look at presumed gunky deposits in the crankcase.
Tall Paul look under your oil filler cap than your oil dip stick (make sure to wipe off residue) perhaps that might help you find what is actually in your crankcase.Your oil pump does not lie.
No I did not notice a difference under the oil filler cap or on the dipstick.
Frank,
Let me add that, as I said above (Friday post), looking down the filler hole is probably not a good way to determine whether a cleaner has worked. So I really don't know what amount of cleaning anything has done. Best I can recall the dipstick never was dirty, but the treatment was several years ago.
Anyway, I have a question on seal conditioning with AutoRx. I used some in the power steering of my truck and it seemed to stop the leak, then I changed out to fresh fluid and the leak came back (I since replaced the seal). But the Aerostar has a leak in the steering rack, a small one. I might try AutoRx for that. Can't hurt, may help. But would it be better to add the AutoRx and just leave it there? I don't want the leak to come back.
Also, since I have no idea the capacity of the steering system, I'll guess two quarts, which is probably more than it really is, and put in two oz AutoRx. Will that be a problem to get too much AutoRx in it?
Let me add that, as I said above (Friday post), looking down the filler hole is probably not a good way to determine whether a cleaner has worked. So I really don't know what amount of cleaning anything has done. Best I can recall the dipstick never was dirty, but the treatment was several years ago.
Anyway, I have a question on seal conditioning with AutoRx. I used some in the power steering of my truck and it seemed to stop the leak, then I changed out to fresh fluid and the leak came back (I since replaced the seal). But the Aerostar has a leak in the steering rack, a small one. I might try AutoRx for that. Can't hurt, may help. But would it be better to add the AutoRx and just leave it there? I don't want the leak to come back.
Also, since I have no idea the capacity of the steering system, I'll guess two quarts, which is probably more than it really is, and put in two oz AutoRx. Will that be a problem to get too much AutoRx in it?
i had the same problem in my Galant. I drew about 12 oz of PS fluid out of the reservoir and filled with Valvoline MaxLife PS Fluid....haven't see a drop in my driveway since! i REALLY didn't think it would work, but it did.
Thanks Rob. I had hoped to fill the whole thing with Maxlife PS or ATF as I just had a new pump installed. Problem is the manufacturer said I must use the old spec Type-F ATF and Valvoline says the Maxlife stuff will cause leaks because it is the wrong type of fluid. But maybe 12 oz would not hurt. Others have said they put DexIII in their Type F PS systems all the time with no problem.
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