Better: Change visc for seasons or change brands?

[Audi Junkie]

Not a question that affects everyone, but stashers will know what I mean.

Say you have a bunch of oil brands in a bunch of viscs. 5w-20 0w30 10w30 etc. So, common practice would be to stick with a single brand of oil, even if it was not *perfect* for the seasons just to continue using the same product until it's gone. (only the slightest of transgressions in the visc, and just one or two fills)

Say I have some 0w-30, fine in winter, great in spring and fall, but maybe not perfect for summer. otoh, say I have some 10w30 that I could use in summer, change to another brand by winter for a 5w-20 to help mpg with winter gas, and then change back to another brand for summer 10w30.

That's my dilemma. I'd like to use the best viscosity oil in every season, but the limitations of my stash means I'd have to switch brands to do that. Better off ust sticking with one until it's gone, even if the visc is just good, not "perfect"?

 

[Black_Thunder]

i dunno i just run whatever myself


Running Rotella 10w30 in my explorer, as soon as it gets cold i'm changing it out for Valvoline Synpower 5w30

 

[Audi Junkie]

Yeah. Thinking about it, there has been a lot of published info coming out about additive interactions. I think that's what got me going on the notion of NOT changing brands a lot. The one drawback is that its' fun to try different oils all the time. I have a whole bunch of PP here, and I never yet got to try it! Looks like I'll run my oils out from oldest to newest, changing brand about once a year.

 

[ARB1977]

Just run one and call it a day. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 now, Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 later...thats my plan.

 

[dnewton3]

If you're not going to do used oil analysis they I'd not worry about it.

If you are planning on used oil analysis, the best approach is consistent use of product to reduce variables in inputs, so that your outputs have more credibility. But that doesn't stop most people here from doing it anyway.

It's OK to fret over such stuff, just as long as you realize it's trivial. The engine isn't going to seize based upon the choices you've stated.

 

[glxpassat]

I don't think additive interactions would be a concern with the little bit of residual oil left in the motor at change time. If you were mixing different quarts, then it might become an issue. I would stick with the right viscosity for the temperature.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Hmm, Food for thought. I think I can get buy using a single product at a time. I have a lot of SL Mobil 1 0w30 and would like to use that up, but the lure of 20 weight is tempting for winter. I wanted to buy a jug of Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0w20, but cannot find them anymore, just quarts. Other oils inc SynPower, like 2q of 20 weight up to 10w30...which is a summer-only otem in my '07 Accord...right. Would we consider it for Fall when temps get colder all the time????

 

[Steve S]

The oils are so close to being the same that it really won't make a dime of difference . All the additive packages come from a handfull of companies and what dnewton3 posted.

 

[dan3952]

I have a 10 year old car and haven't used 5W30 in a long time. I think changing oil viscosity for the winter isn't as important as everybody says it is.. people act like their engine will blow up if they have 10W30 and not 5W30 in their crankcase during a cold snap in December but that's not the case.

The chart says 10W30 is recommended down to -18 degrees Celsius. Not only does this mean that 80% of the time in the winter I would be ok with 10 weight, it's just a guideline. With 10 weight instead of the recommended 5, the oil will be slightly thicker than recommended to be able to flow to vital engine parts in a reasonable amount of time during a -25 deg. startup. That may not, in itself, wreck the engine either, I've done it a few times with the two cars I've owned, and always with the use of a block heater. If I had an oil pan heater that would be even better.

The thinner oil may give you slightly better gas mileage with regard to W20 vs. W30, but I've always been skeptical since 20 weight oils came out. A lot of engines have always spec'd W30 and the engines didn't all have drastic design changes when manufacturers started calling for W20. Slight corporate CAFE improvement at the expense of the best engine protection?