best winterization of all my toys?

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smeltjr

Joined
Dec 19, 2002
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Location
chicago
stuff will be in my detached, unheated garage through chicago winter. only thing that will be run is the tractor with a snowplow. list of good junk ive accumulated:
4 cycle
tractor 15 hp kohler command
chipper shredder 8.5 techumseh
push mower 3.5 techumseh
power washer 3.5 briggs

2 cycle
johnson outboard 10hp
echo weed wacker
craftsman blower
craftsman hedge trimmer
mcculloch chain saw

lots a plug changin at my house every year. anyway is it best to run the gas out of all of these things or leave tank full with stabil? pull plug and dump a little oil in cylinder or use LC? change out plugs now or in spring? project clean the garage, put the plow on the tractor and prepare all my small engine stuff for winter will likely be over thanksgiving weekend. what does everyone out there do and is there a best method? again tractor will not be winterized as i will use it-i'll just leave some stabil in the gas. thanks
 
I've done the "run the gas dry" thing and had misery in the spring.
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I usually put fresh gas in the fuel tank and add Sta-bil. Give it a good run. Change the oil. Check the plug. Check the air filter. Sharpen blades, lube chains, check tire pressure, whatever else it may require. Give the starter cord one last gentle pull, ending when the cylinder is in compression (closes both valves) and put it away for the season.

Last spring my ancient lawnmower started on the second pull.
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I do the same things that Rick in PA does except this year I'm going to skip the stabilizer. Fuel Power will stabilize the fuel and clean the whole system too. I've never had good luck with Sta-Bil anyway.

After running, fill the tanks up as far as they will go to keep air out. I go the extra step of draining the carbs for good measure.

I like the idea of a bit of LC in the cylinders. Ever since I started using it along with FP, the plugs on all my stuff have stayed very clean. This includes some 2-strokes that were notorious for fouling plugs alot.
 
shorty,
it was my understanding that fuel power did NOT have fuel stabilizing capability, which was why some were mixing it with neutra-i,m out of nuetra but got stabil. also, sorry to ask a dumb question, but how does one drain the carb when the tank is full. my small engine knowledge aint what it should be. thanks. also, is it better to change out oil in the 4 strokes NOW or in spring. i'm going to use penz longlife in the 4 strokes 15w40. also, if i put the LC in the spark hole is oil still needed? should i do the same with the 2 strokes. ive just exhausted the last of my 2 cycle premix and i hate to leave any just sittin there over the winter.
 
I like to change the oil prior to storage and not re-start the engine after changing the oil. The way I see it, this makes the crankcase as clean and contamination free for storage as possible. Plus, when you take the engine out of storage, you just start it up and go to work.
 
smeltjr-I'll double check but I thought the FP had anti-oxidation capability also. If not the FP/Neutra mix would work just as well. Actually, that is what I'm using now, not just straight FP.

I agree again with Rick, change the oil now and get all the contamination out. Add alittle LC and this should be fine to run in the spring. I do like to hand/elecric crank the engine a few times to get some oil to the top-end of my OHV engines without running them. Stop the at TDC to keep the valves closed. Gives me alittle more piece of mind that everything is coated.

No need to add oil to the spark plug hole if you use the LC. It takes care of any rust inhibiting needs as well as softening up any carbon in the ring-pack.

Do the same with the 2-stokes, except I store my tanks dry. 2-stroke fuel can deteriorate rather quickly once mixed. I have had some great results with the FP/Neutra in the mix though, last batch lasted 7 months with no probs. As far as draining the carbs. Most will have a drain screw or drain plug on the float bowls (check with a service manual if you have one). My 2-stokes don't have float bowls per se, but the do have prime-pumps that I just pump til they are empty. Hope this helps.
 
I like to run my motor after changing oil to get the fresh oil to all through the motor and also if it has a filter then I can accuratly check the oil. I like to use a fuel stabilizer rather than draining the carbs to keep them from drying out.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Brett Miller:
It is a good idea to use fogging oil in two strokes.
Click to expand...
I've been doing this im multiple outboard 2 strokes for years. I'm sure it has a lot to do with why my Johnsons take a lickin' and keep on tickin'.
 
quote:
Originally posted by Brett Miller:
It is a good idea to use fogging oil in two strokes.
Click to expand...
Absolutely. If you don't have or don't want to mess with it, I have an alternative thats done pretty well. I got the idea from one of my PWC magazines. While the engine is running at close to WOT, manipulate the choke (or primer pump in the case of my PWC) until it starts smoking. Bog the engine by closing the choke and leaving the throttle open. This delivers a richer mixture and coats everything like a fogging oil will. Its a good idea to do this each time you shut down a 2-stroke also, just in case it has to sit for awhile.
 
I have heard good things about seafoam here in VA. My lawn equipment dealer recommends it for use as a fuel stabilizer. I added it just this past weekend to my Kawasaki 15hp Husq mower. I'll also be adding it to my Stihl weedeater. Last winter I used sta-bil additive and my mower started on the 2nd crank. It spent all winter outside under a tarp (no garage yet). I even left the battery in it. I'm going to bring the battery in this year. I didn't add any oil to the cylinders either. I plan to this year.
 
I use Seafoam in a full tank of gas and run it a few minutes to get it into the carb and then change the oil and leave them until spring. Seafoam is pretty popular in MN, how about other places? I don't hear about it on this board much.
 
An alternative that is used on modern marine applications is to run the motor on a mix of 50% Premium Gas, 35% two-stroke oil, and 15 percent Neutra. Run each motor with a small amount of this mixture. The motors will probably smoke, bog, then die. This mixture keeps everything happy, well lubed, and stabilized for long term storage. If you don’t have Neutra, you can alternatively run 5% drygas, 5% fuel injector cleaner, and 5% Stabil. Draining the Carb had never worked for me. It has only served to dry seals out, and gum the jets. Properly stabilized fuel seems to be the way to go.
 
Guys, do a search on "seafoam" in the "fuel additives/cleaners" sub-section. There was some discussion about it recently.

I'm another firm believer in changing the oil in the fall and having the engine sit with fresh oil in and around the bearings during the off-season.

Any accumulated moisture (mostly in the air above the oil) will boil off the first time the engine is started and used.

--- Bror Jace
 
Put some Marvel Mystery oil in the fuel tank and then, if you can, use it to "fog" the motors like we do on our boats. Marvel is about 1/2 the price of a can of "fogging oil" and is about the same ingredients. Definently use some Sta-bil and top of the tanks.
 
It is funny to read how well everyone takes care of their equipment and to see my fathers lawn mower, ( which is over 30 yrs old) run great year after year and all he ever does is add oil and gas and keep the blade shape.
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I agree with everyone, oil change at the end of the season, lube, sharpen, and get the fuel set up as well. Makes life easier in the long run.
 
I use Sea Foam also and get it at Carquest Auto Parts. Keep the gas tanks full and don't drain the carbs. About once a month, I will start all the equipment for about 10 minutes and this has worked well for me. However, if I lived where there is a long winter season, I would probably use fogging oil.
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