best simple brake bleeder

[sky jumper]

anyone have experience with these cheap brake bleeder kits you find at the discount stores? they seem to have some kind of check-ball valve that you attach to the bleeder screw. then you just pump the brakes and the check ball prevent air from getting back into the system. do these really work?? is there a better one-man system out there that doesn't cost as much at the mighty-vac? thanks.

 

[Kestas]

I use a one-man system that is nothing more than some clear plastic tubing into a clear jar. I simply crack open the bleeder screw just a bit, and pump away.

Since the bleeder screw is only cracked open a bit, it allows full flow from each pump of the pedal, yet chokes off the flow enough to prevent slurping back too much fluid on the return stroke. I've been using this method countless times with no problems.

 

[Auto-Union]

I just open the whole system and let it drain. Then close it up except one corner, fill and move on.

 

[Auto-Union]

Pumping the pedal is bad. Press it once to clear the m/c but don't pump it. Pumping it moves the seals through and unusual range in the cyl bore (against un-worn areas) and wears the seals down, basicly damages them. Gravity is all you need.

 

[olympic]

I've tried a few of these bleeder kits, from the ball valve types to the ones with the vacuum gun to "suck" the fluid out. None of them work very well at all. So now I just use gravity and some clear hose into a drain pan. Most brake systems will gravity drain quite well with no outside help.

 

[kgb007stb]

I have been using Motive Bleeder without any problems.

 

[Winston]

quote:

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Originally posted by Auto-Union:
I just open the whole system and let it drain. Then close it up except one corner, fill and move on.

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Does draining get all the crud out? It seems like the high flow rate from pumping will help get the crud out. Or does it really matter?

The idea of just draining the fluid sounds good.

I personally use the "crack the bleed screw a little bit" method. Pump the peddle a few times then race back to the close the screw. It seems to work fine for me.

 

[Winston]

quote:

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Originally posted by Winston:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Auto-Union:
I just open the whole system and let it drain. Then close it up except one corner, fill and move on.

---

Does draining get all the crud out? It seems like the high flow rate from pumping will help get the crud out. Or does it really matter?

The idea of just draining the fluid sounds good.

I personally use the "crack the bleed screw a little bit" method. Pump the peddle a few times then race back to the close the screw. It seems to work fine for me.

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I bought one of those brake bleeder kits and they do not work for me. I am unable to secure the little tube to the bleed screw. It always just blows off.

I also tries one of those systems that pressurizes the brake fluid resevior. However, I could never find a cap for my brake fluid resevior that worked with the pressurizer.

I have also conteplated purchasing these:


http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

But worried that corrosion would cause the little balls to stick.

 

[labman]

I seriously doubt you get enough crud out to do much good short of rebuilding the caliper. the rubber parts need to be replaced eventually anyhow.

 

[docsteveg]

If you want to pump the fluid out, I go to the Walmart pet section and get an aquarium air pump valve. It is about a dollar and only lets fluid/air go one way. I used one of the weekend to bleed my system and it worked well. I do not remember the type of rubber used but there are valves designed to be used in an ozone system that can be ordered that are silicon.

 

[Oz_Mick]

I use one of the ball bearing valve bleeders and it works a charm. Also pump the pedal but only as far as normal travel.

My fluid gets changed every 4-6 months and I've never had a problem.

 

[Audity]

It doesn't qualify as cheap if it's only used once in a while, but the Motive power bleeder is one of the best tools I've ever owned. With it you KNOW the fluid's flushed, and you'll get as hard a pedal as your brake system can provide. My only complaint is that it doesn't fit all fluid reservoirs.

I have a vacuum bleeder as well (the expensive metal one - can't remember the name) but I've never gotten good results with it.

The comments about not pumping the pedal are true - takes it beyond the normal travel range and can damage the seals.

Also - I've expected to find crud inside calipers that I've removed the pistons from, but haven't. I guess bleeding - with the pistons pushed in, as noted above, takes care of it pretty well. New pads will push the pistons in just fine, no need to do anything special. Just bleed the brakes after the new pads are in.

I suspect a good fluid change and bleed gives me the same type of satisfaction that some BITOGers get from changing the oil.

 

[UncleS2]

I have SpeedBleeders on the Neon, they work very well. Of course, we have no road salt here either.

 

[par]

Motive bleeder is great. I do my tacoma every year and I know that its flushed with clean fluid since I use about 2 quarts in the bleeder. I generally buy cheap stuff since I figure that as long as its DOT 3/4 and done every year then the brand doesn't matter. Total time is about 1/2 hour and not a drop of spilt fluid. Nothing better.