Best product to clean up an older PS system

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ford46guy

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On my MGM I'm thinking of running something to clean the pump and box because of some steering centering issues. I eliminated other mechanical issues and it may be down to worn/sticky valves.

My choices are:
Seafoam Trans tune
or
Lubegard Flush
or...
Lastly BG

Last year (about 10K miles ago) I pumped out 2 quts and replaced with motorcraft Mercon V. Fluid looks red now, but I still feel something is not right in there.

And I'm thinking either Val Maxlife ATF or Mercon V afterwards (it is Mercon speced).
 
LG or BG. There is a 2 part kit from LG with the flush and the additive. Do a return off flush if possible after you use the flush, refill and use the additive.
 
Just add an ounce or two of Lubegard Red or Platinum. Give it a couple thousand miles and reflush with a full synthetic Mercon-V equivalent from Amsoil, Mobil1, Redline, RoyalPurple,....

Save an ounce of Lubegard for the final PS refill, and use the rest in the transmission as a top off.
 
Originally Posted By: aualtima3.5
I'm not a fan of additives. Why not try another flush with MercV?



+1 typically I am not. I would do a drain and fill, drive it for a week then drain and fill and use some LGR in it. Lubeguard is the only additive I would add to anything.
 
I've heard Seafoam can be used. They have a trans tune product that cleans auto transmissions. I ran a reservoir full of MMO through my 69 ltd power steering for a few hundred miles before doing several reservoir suck and fills. Quieted the pump some and made smoother operation going lock to lock. No new leaks or anything. I put type f in there but using maxlife ATF in my 67 f250 and would go with that next time in the ltd also.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
LG or BG. There is a 2 part kit from LG with the flush and the additive. Do a return off flush if possible after you use the flush, refill and use the additive.


Yeah, I see the LG kit on ebay, I'm probably going to go for it.

I know flushing isn't always suggested(and I'm not a big fan) but I've spoken to some dealers and they suggested it too. BG is sort of Ford approved, not publicly but in their internal bulletins. If a warranty claim comes down to it they are going to try a flush instead of hours of labor to do a rack.

One dealer here agreed with you and said they would be happy to do the LG treatment for $99, refill with MV after. They said if that don't solve it there is a serious issue.

The other option is part replacement - can always do that if the flush fails.
 
Originally Posted By: barkingspider
Forget flushing the trans and do a drain and fill like suggested by others.

I am debating another drain and fill or two before taking the flush route. I may try that first. Thinking of trying MaxLife ATF. Looks like very good stuff. It is Mercon and Mercon V compatible outside of California (ok, you get the humor)
 
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Originally Posted By: barkingspider
Forget flushing the trans and do a drain and fill like suggested by others.

Trans???

He's talking about a power steering rack...
 
On my CVPI it had almost completely dead power steering when I bought it. It was a work out to do a u-turn or similar.
Its an '02 so same steering setup as yours with the old school Recirculating ball steering box.
Probably because of the stiffness it wouldn't even try to center. It would pretty much stay where you put it.
I brought it home, ran three quarts through the power steering by draining and filling with Mercon V and then I took the power steering reservoir off the car and washed it out with brake cleaner. There is a screen on the bottom that protects the intake to the pump and it was pretty gritted up with stuff.
I wont say its 100% but its probably 80-90% of original power steering and it actually centers pretty well now.
I also added a magnefine on the return to the reservoir.
Recently I swapped it to synthetic Mercon V for better cold weather performance.
I would try what I did and just run new fluid through it until the fluid in the res it clean new fluid.
I had jacked up the front end so I could start it and turn the wheel lock-to-lock everytime I changed it without ruining the tires.
 
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Yes, it is exactly the same thing but I think the CVPIs have a "performance box."

The screen is also something I want to address. I was thinking about brake fluid but I worried the plastic container will be ruined. I guess its ok then. The screen could be limiting fluid volume.

Guess I can run a gallon of super tech ATF thru it, its real cheap. Then get synth MV and see if there is improvement. Can always do the flush if it don't work.
 
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Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Yes, it is exactly the same thing but I think the CVPIs have a "performance box."

Yeap. Just a stiffer box from the get go. I still think it is stiffer than it should be, but compared to what it was when I got it, Ill take it. In order to get any better I would have to replace the box I think.
 
Originally Posted By: ford46guy
Originally Posted By: Trav
LG or BG. There is a 2 part kit from LG with the flush and the additive. Do a return off flush if possible after you use the flush, refill and use the additive.


Yeah, I see the LG kit on ebay, I'm probably going to go for it.

I know flushing isn't always suggested(and I'm not a big fan) but I've spoken to some dealers and they suggested it too. BG is sort of Ford approved, not publicly but in their internal bulletins. If a warranty claim comes down to it they are going to try a flush instead of hours of labor to do a rack.

One dealer here agreed with you and said they would be happy to do the LG treatment for $99, refill with MV after. They said if that don't solve it there is a serious issue.

The other option is part replacement - can always do that if the flush fails.


Flushing it with LG is harmless and will clean the valves which is the objective, ATF alone will not. Does this have pump whine?
Old overheated fluid creates vernish that stick the valves like the ones in an automatic transmission, new ATF doesn't free sticky valves.
LGR and LG PS additive are not the same. There are no modifiers in the PS additive to prevent TC clutch shudder.
 
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Originally Posted By: barkingspider
Forget flushing the trans and do a drain and fill like suggested by others.

Trans???

He's talking about a power steering rack...


My bad. All this ATF talk, I forgot he was talking bout PS
 
I would get the tracking checked and then, undo the PS return pipe (to the reservoir) and flush with the standard recommended PS fluid if it were mine. If you want correct (as Ford designed it) steering feel you'll need to use the original grade/spec fluid rather than modern fluids.
 
I had an old Taurus that the PS fluid was black in it.

I first drained and refilled with synthetic ATF fluid. It got black again in a week.

So I bought a gallon of cheap ATF and started draining and refilling the reservoir with a turkey baster.

It took about two months with ever increasing time intervals to get it to stay clean. Then I drained it all and refilled with the synthetic again.

Stayed good a clean and once a year I sucked the reservoir dry and refilled.
 
A drain and fill is usually all they need. Most steering issues are due to a stiff universal joint in the lower steering shaft, and/or the firewall bearing.
 
Drain off about 4 ounces of fluid, and replace with MMO. Drive it a few hundred miles, then flush the system out with fresh fluid.
 
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