Best oils for DI engines?
- Thread starter Texican
- Start date
- Status
Robust on paper maybe, but many engine oils that look weak on paper are actually far better.
A good engine oil for a gasoline direct injected engine is one that handles fuel dilution well. Valvoline oils are very good at this.
Low SAPS Euro oils would work well also, especially those that meet VW 504/507. All of these oils have very low starting TBN's, but have great TBN retention. They are rated for extended drains.
A good engine oil for a gasoline direct injected engine is one that handles fuel dilution well. Valvoline oils are very good at this.
Low SAPS Euro oils would work well also, especially those that meet VW 504/507. All of these oils have very low starting TBN's, but have great TBN retention. They are rated for extended drains.
Originally Posted By: salv
Robust on paper maybe, but many engine oils that look weak on paper are actually far better.
A good engine oil for a gasoline direct injected engine is one that handles fuel dilution well. Valvoline oils are very good at this.
What do you base this on? I've been reading a lot about how the highly touted oil analysis is now being disregarded because 'its not only what you see on paper.' I'm not arguing that, but if you can't see it on paper then what do you base this judgement on?
Robust on paper maybe, but many engine oils that look weak on paper are actually far better.
A good engine oil for a gasoline direct injected engine is one that handles fuel dilution well. Valvoline oils are very good at this.
What do you base this on? I've been reading a lot about how the highly touted oil analysis is now being disregarded because 'its not only what you see on paper.' I'm not arguing that, but if you can't see it on paper then what do you base this judgement on?
Isn't how the oil rates in TEOST important here. As in smaller number less deposits right.
And I think castrol got the best number. It's been posted here before.
And I think castrol got the best number. It's been posted here before.
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
The best oil for a DI engine is one that meets the manufacturer recommended specifications, and is changed frequently due to fuel dilution.
The best oil for a DI engine is one that meets the manufacturer recommended specifications, and is changed frequently due to fuel dilution.
Originally Posted By: Texican
So is it fuel dilution or deposits one should be concerned about with a DI engine?
I'd be concerned. Opinions vary.
So is it fuel dilution or deposits one should be concerned about with a DI engine?
I'd be concerned. Opinions vary.
At the moment, I still have the 2 years' worth of oil changes (and tire rotations) as part of my CPO warranty, and will follow the OLM (which at the moment looks to suggest changing at about 4000 miles). I suppose the dealer will pop in ACDelco's dexos1 oil.
When that's done . . . well, that's a while away. From what I've read here, Pennzoil Ultra would be good, and by that time should have the dexos1 certification. If it doesn't, then I may go with Pennzoil Platinum, or QSUD.
When that's done . . . well, that's a while away. From what I've read here, Pennzoil Ultra would be good, and by that time should have the dexos1 certification. If it doesn't, then I may go with Pennzoil Platinum, or QSUD.
My understanding is the fuel dilution is more a concern with a DI over a non-DI.
And a low NOACK oil should be considered helpful for a DI.
I dunno... I'm stuck now using PP as that's is all I have left in my stash, and continue 5k OCIs.
And a low NOACK oil should be considered helpful for a DI.
I dunno... I'm stuck now using PP as that's is all I have left in my stash, and continue 5k OCIs.
Amsoil 5W30 for DI engines. Second best on TEOST test.
I would think Pennzoil Ultra or PP would be a good choice...
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Texican
So is it fuel dilution or deposits one should be concerned about with a DI engine?
I'd be concerned. Opinions vary.
My anecdotal experience:
Cheap Conventional oil like Quaker State Green bottle works fine in my DI engine, but it feels like its durability is all used up over 2,000 miles because my car performs a bit sluggish under hard acceleration and its noisier than it was when I first put the fresh oil in.
With top-tier conventional oil, which I've only used Pennzoil Yellow Bottle, my DI engine drove without the issues I got with QS all the way to the 3,000 OCI mark. I didn't try to go above that mark with conventional.
I've also used entry-level synthetic (QS Ultimate) and my experience was the same with Pennzoil, and I still wouldn't go over 3,000 OCI with that oil.
However, I've used Castrol Edge gold bottle and lately I've been changing it every 4k miles. Throughout that whole OCI my car felt as if it still had fresh oil. No extra noise, no sluggish acceleration, etc.
I'm on my 5th consecutive interval with Castrol Edge.
I had Kendall GT-1 Synthetic w/ Titanium in this car and it also drove great.
So, all in all, DI engines love top-tier synthetics and top-tier conventionals work great too.
Down the road I might go with Castrol Syntec of Mobil 1.
Fuel dilution is more prevalent in DI engines, I always get that fuel smell in my engine oil when I check the level. The synthetics seem to hold up better.
Originally Posted By: Texican
So is it fuel dilution or deposits one should be concerned about with a DI engine?
I'd be concerned. Opinions vary.
My anecdotal experience:
Cheap Conventional oil like Quaker State Green bottle works fine in my DI engine, but it feels like its durability is all used up over 2,000 miles because my car performs a bit sluggish under hard acceleration and its noisier than it was when I first put the fresh oil in.
With top-tier conventional oil, which I've only used Pennzoil Yellow Bottle, my DI engine drove without the issues I got with QS all the way to the 3,000 OCI mark. I didn't try to go above that mark with conventional.
I've also used entry-level synthetic (QS Ultimate) and my experience was the same with Pennzoil, and I still wouldn't go over 3,000 OCI with that oil.
However, I've used Castrol Edge gold bottle and lately I've been changing it every 4k miles. Throughout that whole OCI my car felt as if it still had fresh oil. No extra noise, no sluggish acceleration, etc.
I'm on my 5th consecutive interval with Castrol Edge.
I had Kendall GT-1 Synthetic w/ Titanium in this car and it also drove great.
So, all in all, DI engines love top-tier synthetics and top-tier conventionals work great too.
Down the road I might go with Castrol Syntec of Mobil 1.
Fuel dilution is more prevalent in DI engines, I always get that fuel smell in my engine oil when I check the level. The synthetics seem to hold up better.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: accent2012
However, I've used Castrol Edge gold bottle and lately I've been changing it every 4k miles. Throughout that whole OCI my car felt as if it still had fresh oil. No extra noise, no sluggish acceleration, etc.
I'm on my 5th consecutive interval with Castrol Edge.
I am a big fan of gold bottle Edge also. I think you should push it farther and see how it goes though, with Castrol hinting at 15k OCI's with it I'd think you could get more than 4k out of it even with a DI engine.
However, I've used Castrol Edge gold bottle and lately I've been changing it every 4k miles. Throughout that whole OCI my car felt as if it still had fresh oil. No extra noise, no sluggish acceleration, etc.
I'm on my 5th consecutive interval with Castrol Edge.
I am a big fan of gold bottle Edge also. I think you should push it farther and see how it goes though, with Castrol hinting at 15k OCI's with it I'd think you could get more than 4k out of it even with a DI engine.
Yeah, I just need to get an analysis if I want to go over 5,000 miles for peace of mind.
Quaker state green bottle is identical to Pennzoil yellow bottle, they're both made by shell with the same additives. You were affected by the halo effect of the Pennzoil brand.
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Texican
So is it fuel dilution or deposits one should be concerned about with a DI engine?
I'd be concerned. Opinions vary.
My anecdotal experience:
Cheap Conventional oil like Quaker State Green bottle works fine in my DI engine, but it feels like its durability is all used up over 2,000 miles because my car performs a bit sluggish under hard acceleration and its noisier than it was when I first put the fresh oil in.
With top-tier conventional oil, which I've only used Pennzoil Yellow Bottle, my DI engine drove without the issues I got with QS all the way to the 3,000 OCI mark. I didn't try to go above that mark with conventional.
I've also used entry-level synthetic (QS Ultimate) and my experience was the same with Pennzoil, and I still wouldn't go over 3,000 OCI with that oil.
However, I've used Castrol Edge gold bottle and lately I've been changing it every 4k miles. Throughout that whole OCI my car felt as if it still had fresh oil. No extra noise, no sluggish acceleration, etc.
I'm on my 5th consecutive interval with Castrol Edge.
I had Kendall GT-1 Synthetic w/ Titanium in this car and it also drove great.
So, all in all, DI engines love top-tier synthetics and top-tier conventionals work great too.
Down the road I might go with Castrol Syntec of Mobil 1.
Fuel dilution is more prevalent in DI engines, I always get that fuel smell in my engine oil when I check the level. The synthetics seem to hold up better.
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Texican
So is it fuel dilution or deposits one should be concerned about with a DI engine?
I'd be concerned. Opinions vary.
My anecdotal experience:
Cheap Conventional oil like Quaker State Green bottle works fine in my DI engine, but it feels like its durability is all used up over 2,000 miles because my car performs a bit sluggish under hard acceleration and its noisier than it was when I first put the fresh oil in.
With top-tier conventional oil, which I've only used Pennzoil Yellow Bottle, my DI engine drove without the issues I got with QS all the way to the 3,000 OCI mark. I didn't try to go above that mark with conventional.
I've also used entry-level synthetic (QS Ultimate) and my experience was the same with Pennzoil, and I still wouldn't go over 3,000 OCI with that oil.
However, I've used Castrol Edge gold bottle and lately I've been changing it every 4k miles. Throughout that whole OCI my car felt as if it still had fresh oil. No extra noise, no sluggish acceleration, etc.
I'm on my 5th consecutive interval with Castrol Edge.
I had Kendall GT-1 Synthetic w/ Titanium in this car and it also drove great.
So, all in all, DI engines love top-tier synthetics and top-tier conventionals work great too.
Down the road I might go with Castrol Syntec of Mobil 1.
Fuel dilution is more prevalent in DI engines, I always get that fuel smell in my engine oil when I check the level. The synthetics seem to hold up better.
- Status
Similar threads
