best oil filter to use
- Thread starter noblite
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I used Motorcraft oil filter on my '94 LS400 for up to 12-13k miles or 1 year oil change interval. It easily work for 5-6k miles on your Mustang.
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Originally Posted By: noblite
What about the Wally World Super Tech filters?
The engine is going to get a complete rebuilt in about 5k or so along with a restoration to the body so what to save as much as possible.
What's the cost difference between Motorcraft and Super Tech (both at Walmart)? It cannot be more than a dollar or so right? Everything that I have read and my own experience says that Motorcraft is top notch...
What about the Wally World Super Tech filters?
The engine is going to get a complete rebuilt in about 5k or so along with a restoration to the body so what to save as much as possible.
What's the cost difference between Motorcraft and Super Tech (both at Walmart)? It cannot be more than a dollar or so right? Everything that I have read and my own experience says that Motorcraft is top notch...
Just stay with your Motorcraft filters. You already have arguably the best filter for the money. Is saving $.50 or thereabouts to step down to a ST really going to do much towards that overhaul?
On the other hand to get that mch better of a filter, you'd have to go way up to a PureOne, M1, K&N, or the like. Now you're talking $7-$14 or more. That's about the price of some head gaskets!
On the other hand to get that mch better of a filter, you'd have to go way up to a PureOne, M1, K&N, or the like. Now you're talking $7-$14 or more. That's about the price of some head gaskets!
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Cardboard?
Glue?
..but since I'm just curious, what do most all filter man's use to bond cellulose media to metal end caps with, spit ..bubble gum..wishful thinking?
(answer: an adhesive - plastizol, I believe - and the Ecore does not use it - now if you want to talk about Fram ..)
..but since I'm just curious, what do most all filter man's use to bond cellulose media to metal end caps with, spit ..bubble gum..wishful thinking?
(answer: an adhesive - plastizol, I believe - and the Ecore does not use it - now if you want to talk about Fram ..)
Originally Posted By: Y_K
Originally Posted By: noblite
Is there anything wrong with the Super Tech filter though?
1. cardboard
2. glue
3. plastic
otherwise it's a filter
Describing Fram???
Originally Posted By: noblite
Is there anything wrong with the Super Tech filter though?
1. cardboard
2. glue
3. plastic
otherwise it's a filter
Describing Fram???
Many Supertech filters are of an e-core design which is controversial here. There have been reports of e-core failures, and many simply don't like its design (I count myself in this camp).
For your OCI, a popular choice that many here suggest as good bang for the buck is the Purolator Classic. Another alternative, also made by Purolator (or using a Purolator design) is the Quaker State filter.
For that OCI, and subject to local availability, those would be my top 2 choices, although there are others as well that will likely be recommended.
-Spyder
For your OCI, a popular choice that many here suggest as good bang for the buck is the Purolator Classic. Another alternative, also made by Purolator (or using a Purolator design) is the Quaker State filter.
For that OCI, and subject to local availability, those would be my top 2 choices, although there are others as well that will likely be recommended.
-Spyder
Originally Posted By: musicmanbass
On the other hand to get that mch better of a filter, you'd have to go way up to a PureOne, M1, K&N, or the like. Now you're talking $7-$14 or more. That's about the price of some head gaskets!
I don't need a new head gasket, though in doing my own oil changes and in doing them in my driveway, I prefer the pay a little more for the filter that's going to hold up to my 10K filter change interval, without second guessing the filter, and allowing for some 'fudge factor' that may result in the filter change being postponed by a couple K due to foul weather and, or, conflicting demands on my time.
As the OP is looking for something for half the interval, I suggested a couple of the more popular, and well made, options that are suitable for that interval.
Though if its the objective best he's looking for, and cost is not an issue, then that changes the equation entirely, and (though there are a few others that can compete head to head with it) I would recommend either the M1 EP or K&N, both of which use the same performance design by champ labs. These filters are expensive, but they are designed to easily hold up to a 15k OCI. The playing field for that length of a filter remaining effective, and offering the efficiency of the champ performance line, is a very small one and as these are meant to last longer than an average 5-8k OCI, plus have one of the highest efficiency measures on the market, you pay extra for that but IMHO you get what you pay for.
-Spyder
On the other hand to get that mch better of a filter, you'd have to go way up to a PureOne, M1, K&N, or the like. Now you're talking $7-$14 or more. That's about the price of some head gaskets!
I don't need a new head gasket, though in doing my own oil changes and in doing them in my driveway, I prefer the pay a little more for the filter that's going to hold up to my 10K filter change interval, without second guessing the filter, and allowing for some 'fudge factor' that may result in the filter change being postponed by a couple K due to foul weather and, or, conflicting demands on my time.
As the OP is looking for something for half the interval, I suggested a couple of the more popular, and well made, options that are suitable for that interval.
Though if its the objective best he's looking for, and cost is not an issue, then that changes the equation entirely, and (though there are a few others that can compete head to head with it) I would recommend either the M1 EP or K&N, both of which use the same performance design by champ labs. These filters are expensive, but they are designed to easily hold up to a 15k OCI. The playing field for that length of a filter remaining effective, and offering the efficiency of the champ performance line, is a very small one and as these are meant to last longer than an average 5-8k OCI, plus have one of the highest efficiency measures on the market, you pay extra for that but IMHO you get what you pay for.
-Spyder
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The least expensive you can find.
I do 20K on the Purolator Classic (1 year and 80% highway miles)
I do 20K on the Purolator Classic (1 year and 80% highway miles)
*shrugs*
I've cut open more e-core's than Purolator's and still the only filter I've seen fail was a (Purolator made) Motorcraft, split right down the seam. (But nobody wants to hear that, of course).
So use what you want. For that length it's really not going to matter, any filter will do.
I've cut open more e-core's than Purolator's and still the only filter I've seen fail was a (Purolator made) Motorcraft, split right down the seam. (But nobody wants to hear that, of course).
So use what you want. For that length it's really not going to matter, any filter will do.
How much are you currently paying now for your Motorcraft filters, and how much are you looking to save?
Every time I've seen a review of filters and seen them cut open, the Motorcraft filter always seems to be of very good quality and the best bang for the buck. Considering how they're usually one of the lower priced filters on the shelf, I can't really imagine going with another brand filter and getting better quality than the Motorcraft filter for less $$$.
Now you can get better filters for less, but that usually involves finding sales and rebates. But the term "better" is relative b/c it's not like the Motorcraft filter is causing (or going to cause) any harm to your vehicle. I use Purolator PureOne filters on my vehicle that I buy either on sale or with a rebate, but if there was a Motorcraft filter that fit my vehicle, I'd use it without hesitation.
If the price difference between a cheaper filter and the Motorcraft filter really makes a difference towards the work you want to have done in 5000 miles. Than I suggest pushing the work back to 5001 miles and looking for change on the side of the road during that last mile, cause the cost savings really isn't going to be much. In fact there's probably going to be a larger drop in filter quality, than there is in filter price, when going with a cheaper filter
Every time I've seen a review of filters and seen them cut open, the Motorcraft filter always seems to be of very good quality and the best bang for the buck. Considering how they're usually one of the lower priced filters on the shelf, I can't really imagine going with another brand filter and getting better quality than the Motorcraft filter for less $$$.
Now you can get better filters for less, but that usually involves finding sales and rebates. But the term "better" is relative b/c it's not like the Motorcraft filter is causing (or going to cause) any harm to your vehicle. I use Purolator PureOne filters on my vehicle that I buy either on sale or with a rebate, but if there was a Motorcraft filter that fit my vehicle, I'd use it without hesitation.
If the price difference between a cheaper filter and the Motorcraft filter really makes a difference towards the work you want to have done in 5000 miles. Than I suggest pushing the work back to 5001 miles and looking for change on the side of the road during that last mile, cause the cost savings really isn't going to be much. In fact there's probably going to be a larger drop in filter quality, than there is in filter price, when going with a cheaper filter
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