I think you've made a great choice. Rotella T6 is one of the most under appreciated oils (among people who don't know) of all time.
Best motor oil for a 2001 BMW 525i?
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Thanks again. Yeah, MN winter blows MI winter away in terms of severe low temps. Sounds like you have no worries about extra wear on winter startup with running Rotella T6 5w40, which I thought was a 'thick' 5w40? If you aren't worried, then I'm not worried.
Originally Posted By: bluedevils
Thanks again. Yeah, MN winter blows MI winter away in terms of severe low temps. Sounds like you have no worries about extra wear on winter startup with running Rotella T6 5w40, which I thought was a 'thick' 5w40? If you aren't worried, then I'm not worried.
I find it funny that people who don't own a Bimmer recommend a heavy 40wt oil for them.
Rotella T6 is way heavier than necessary for summer let alone winter use. In winter the oil pump will be in by-pass mode most of the time at higher rev's which is never a good thing.
Under no circumstances is an oil heavier than M1 0W-40 required and although GC is lighter at operating temp's M1's 0W-40 is lighter every time you start the engine cold even in the summer due to it's much higher 185 VI.
Truth is even a light 30wt like PP 5W-30 or M1 5W-30 or M1 0W-30 0W-30 with it's HTHS of 3.1cP (yes that's lighter than the 3.5cP that BMW spec's) will never test the minimum oil pressure spec's for the OP's engine, not the way we drive in NA. The only think of any concern about these oils is that they are not long life oils.
Thanks again. Yeah, MN winter blows MI winter away in terms of severe low temps. Sounds like you have no worries about extra wear on winter startup with running Rotella T6 5w40, which I thought was a 'thick' 5w40? If you aren't worried, then I'm not worried.
I find it funny that people who don't own a Bimmer recommend a heavy 40wt oil for them.
Rotella T6 is way heavier than necessary for summer let alone winter use. In winter the oil pump will be in by-pass mode most of the time at higher rev's which is never a good thing.
Under no circumstances is an oil heavier than M1 0W-40 required and although GC is lighter at operating temp's M1's 0W-40 is lighter every time you start the engine cold even in the summer due to it's much higher 185 VI.
Truth is even a light 30wt like PP 5W-30 or M1 5W-30 or M1 0W-30 0W-30 with it's HTHS of 3.1cP (yes that's lighter than the 3.5cP that BMW spec's) will never test the minimum oil pressure spec's for the OP's engine, not the way we drive in NA. The only think of any concern about these oils is that they are not long life oils.
I don't know what to say except that the owner's manual for my car recommends 5w30 or 5w40, and from what I've been reading I thought the older BMW 6 cylinder engines run better on a slightly thicker oil such as this Rotella T6.
Am I off the mark on that? Will I be doing any harm running this oil in my car for 5,000-7,500 intervals, with 80% highway use @ 70 mph? That's pretty easy miles and I assumed that pretty much any dino oil could handle those intervals with no problems.
Am I off the mark on that? Will I be doing any harm running this oil in my car for 5,000-7,500 intervals, with 80% highway use @ 70 mph? That's pretty easy miles and I assumed that pretty much any dino oil could handle those intervals with no problems.
First your Bimmer is not that old.
And yes 80% highway at only 70 mph is about as easy on the engine that I can think of. You could run any 5W-30 dino but I wouldn't go past 5,000 miles. Any 5W-30 syn to 7,500 miles would be no problem.
The way you drive your car simply won't get the oil temp's hot enough to warrant using a 40wt oil consiquently there's is zero benefit in using Rotella T6. You will have better overall lubrication with the cheapest 5W-30 dino.
And yes 80% highway at only 70 mph is about as easy on the engine that I can think of. You could run any 5W-30 dino but I wouldn't go past 5,000 miles. Any 5W-30 syn to 7,500 miles would be no problem.
The way you drive your car simply won't get the oil temp's hot enough to warrant using a 40wt oil consiquently there's is zero benefit in using Rotella T6. You will have better overall lubrication with the cheapest 5W-30 dino.
Thanks for the feedback. Sounds like I may switch to a 5w30 on my next change if there's no good reason to run the thicker 40 weight oil...although I thought I had read that the Rotella T6 has a more beefy additive package than many/most oils. True or false? If true, beneficial for my usage or not?
Of course Rotella is a HDEO intended for diesel applications which your engine is not. For example it contains higher phos' levels (1150 ppm) than is necessary for your engine.
M1 0W-40 contains 900 ppm of phos'.
GC 0W-30 which meets BMW's requirements contains 850 ppm of phos'.
A typical 5W-30 contains 700 to 800 ppm of phos' which is fine for an engine that is already broken in IMO. If you're at all concerned you could choose a 5W-30 oil with a phos' level closer to 800 ppm but as you can see Rotella is overkill.
M1 0W-40 contains 900 ppm of phos'.
GC 0W-30 which meets BMW's requirements contains 850 ppm of phos'.
A typical 5W-30 contains 700 to 800 ppm of phos' which is fine for an engine that is already broken in IMO. If you're at all concerned you could choose a 5W-30 oil with a phos' level closer to 800 ppm but as you can see Rotella is overkill.
I say M1 0w40 year round and forget it.
Can't do much better than M1 0W40.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Of course Rotella is a HDEO intended for diesel applications which your engine is not. For example it contains higher phos' levels (1150 ppm) than is necessary for your engine.
M1 0W-40 contains 900 ppm of phos'.
GC 0W-30 which meets BMW's requirements contains 850 ppm of phos'.
A typical 5W-30 contains 700 to 800 ppm of phos' which is fine for an engine that is already broken in IMO. If you're at all concerned you could choose a 5W-30 oil with a phos' level closer to 800 ppm but as you can see Rotella is overkill.
Hmm, I thought Rotella T6 was meant for both diesel and gasoline applications.
I'm more likely to switch to a dino or blend of 5w30 which I can get more readily and cheaply than Mobil 1 0w40. I've never been comfortable with extended OCIs. Would rather just change out dino every 5k.
Of course Rotella is a HDEO intended for diesel applications which your engine is not. For example it contains higher phos' levels (1150 ppm) than is necessary for your engine.
M1 0W-40 contains 900 ppm of phos'.
GC 0W-30 which meets BMW's requirements contains 850 ppm of phos'.
A typical 5W-30 contains 700 to 800 ppm of phos' which is fine for an engine that is already broken in IMO. If you're at all concerned you could choose a 5W-30 oil with a phos' level closer to 800 ppm but as you can see Rotella is overkill.
Hmm, I thought Rotella T6 was meant for both diesel and gasoline applications.
I'm more likely to switch to a dino or blend of 5w30 which I can get more readily and cheaply than Mobil 1 0w40. I've never been comfortable with extended OCIs. Would rather just change out dino every 5k.
Originally Posted By: teddyboy
Can't do much better than M1 0W40.
Just found M1 on sale at advance for 32 bucks for 5 qts and a m1 filter, an oil change place did the change for 15 bucks. Im on the road 7 days a week and always searching for good deals on m1 or t6. I use both on my old lead sled dodge 2002 v8. 300k miles and all is well.
Can't do much better than M1 0W40.
Just found M1 on sale at advance for 32 bucks for 5 qts and a m1 filter, an oil change place did the change for 15 bucks. Im on the road 7 days a week and always searching for good deals on m1 or t6. I use both on my old lead sled dodge 2002 v8. 300k miles and all is well.
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