Best "low effort" cam for LT1 350?

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No L99 4.3 in the 94 - 96 Roadmasters. All are LT 1

Join this forum:

https://www.impalassforum.com/ And read, read, read. Good stickys and a wealth of info. Not just for Impalas.

Been with them for 16 years and a new cam is way down the list of things to add.

3.42 is a good gear for all around use. You now have a 2.93 if stock.

Start with better exhaust and a mechanical fan delete. (add second elect fan). Also air pump delete.

Trying to stick with your $500 limit

Good maintenance is paramount before anything!
 
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Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
cwilliamsws6 said:
Miiiight be picking up a 94 Roadmaster sedan later if everything works out in my favor.

If I get it I want to do a mild engine build and make it a sleeper, zero appearance mods except maybe some Torq-Thrust II wheels and HIDs. .....

The specs I recommend for a stock headed LT1 is...

280 / 286 @ .006"
230 / 236 @ .050"
.576" / .576" lift w/ 1.6 rockers
109 +3 LSA

That'll produce an aggressive, choppy idle, would come alive around 3500-4000 rpm and pull to 6000-6200 rpm. Lloyd Elliot is who I recommend contacting for a custom grind. His grind will probably be pretty close to those specs.



Way too much cam for a land barge with stock converter and tall gears. Too much lift for daily streetuse and reliability.

V8 are torque makers and the stock cam likely has under 200 deg duration. and under .430 lift.

Does anyone market a mechanical VVT for Gen 1 V8?

stuck in the 1960's here.
 
A cam shifts the engine's powerband; there are tradeoffs.
You add duration and lift and your low end suffers.
Street driven cars, especially with automatic transmissions, will be dogs off the line.

As others have said, the engine is only part of the equation.
A well matched power train is key.
 
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
cwilliamsws6 said:
Miiiight be picking up a 94 Roadmaster sedan later if everything works out in my favor.

If I get it I want to do a mild engine build and make it a sleeper, zero appearance mods except maybe some Torq-Thrust II wheels and HIDs. .....

The specs I recommend for a stock headed LT1 is...

280 / 286 @ .006"
230 / 236 @ .050"
.576" / .576" lift w/ 1.6 rockers
109 +3 LSA

That'll produce an aggressive, choppy idle, would come alive around 3500-4000 rpm and pull to 6000-6200 rpm. Lloyd Elliot is who I recommend contacting for a custom grind. His grind will probably be pretty close to those specs.



Way too much cam for a land barge with stock converter and tall gears. Too much lift for daily streetuse and reliability.

V8 are torque makers and the stock cam likely has under 200 deg duration. and under .430 lift.

Does anyone market a mechanical VVT for Gen 1 V8?

stuck in the 1960's here.




The stock cam is...

275 / 278 @ .006"
202 / 207 @ .050"
.449" / .460" lift w/ 1.5 rockers
116 -1 LSA

The intake valve closing event actually happens 8 degrees sooner with my cam specs above, with close to the same exhaust valve opening event, and much better intake valve opening timing. The lift is moderate and easily streetable and reliable with good valve springs. I've run that cam in several stock LT1s. There's much more to cam theory than just duration and lift. The valve events are key.

Yes, you'd need a good converter, but you'd want that anyway. The stock 12" converter is a lazy turd. It's not uncommon for these cars to pick up over half a second in the 1/4 mile on a stock engine with just a converter change. A 10" 3200-3600 stall with lockup would be excellent. Rear gears is another mod I would do before even touching the engine. Going to 3.73s would make a night and day difference.

Any aftermarket cam will be lackluster without a good converter and gears to compliment it so I consider those to be "must do" mods before even thinking about a cam. They're lackluster even with the stock cam. I realize he said he doesn't want to do that, but I would hope he'd change his mind if he really wants a good cam.
 
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OP - have you ever installed a cam? Do you realize how much has to come off?

While it is technically possible to install without removing the engine in your car, it is much easier if removed.

$$$ involved assuming there are no other problems..................... and there always are.

Buy it, maintain it, enjoy it. Then start doing other mods.

How many miles and what is the overall condition?

I assume you don't have smog issues to deal with?
 
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