best dino oil for my 2006 Elantra?

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I just purchased a MINT condition 2006 Hyundai Elantra GLS sedan
with just 17,000 miles. I plan to keep the car for long term
around 200,000 miles. The dealer changed the oil and filter
using Quaker State 5W20, synthetic blend.
What would be the best oil to use in this car using 5000 miles
change intervals?

Thanks
 
You didn't mention the driving conditions. But if you plan on running a conventional oil, and the conditions aren't considered severe, Pennzoil Yellow Bottle is the ticket.
 
With 5000 mile oil change intervals, just about any SM oil would likely work well to get the car to 200,000, that's excepting severe or wacky conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
You didn't mention the driving conditions. But if you plan on running a conventional oil, and the conditions aren't considered severe, Pennzoil Yellow Bottle is the ticket.

Ummm...any SM oil that you find the cheapest!
 
Originally Posted By: flinter
I just purchased a MINT condition 2006 Hyundai Elantra GLS sedan
with just 17,000 miles. I plan to keep the car for long term
around 200,000 miles. The dealer changed the oil and filter
using Quaker State 5W20, synthetic blend.
What would be the best oil to use in this car using 5000 miles
change intervals?

Thanks


nice little car,my daughter has a 2002 and loves it.read the manual re;fuel,i believe they recommend 89 octane.she said to me the car runs much better and more mpg`s on the 89 octane.
 
I'd run any API-SM oil in the grade specified (5W-20 I guess). I personally stash any conventional oil I find on sale for less than about $2/quart. I've got 16 quarts of Havoline Deposit Shield and 15 quarts of Chevron Supreme at the moment. I've also used a lot of Valvoline All Climate and Pennzoil Yellow Bottle in the past. All have run just fine. Keep the oil changed per Hyundai's recommendations for the conditions and settle in.
 
Any good quality SM-rated 5W-20 or 5w30 will do. In addition to the above recommendations, I'd also think about a blend from the Conoco-Phillips family such as Motorcraft, Kendell GT-1, or Phillips66 Tropartic...
 
My recs would be, in this order:

Havoline DS 5W-20,
Pennzoil YB 5W-20,
Castrol GTX 5W-20.

Change at 5k, and car will run as long as you want it to!
 
Thanks!

Im a very conservative driver in the suburbs of central NJ!

What are your thoughts on adding the product Motorsilk to
the oil?
 
Sorry..i forgot to ask...

So any quality oil like Pennzoil, Castrol, QS, etc will be fine?
I always wondered if switching between brands is at all harmful to
the engine?
I always have either the dealer or my mechanic do my changes
since I live in a upscale condo community where it would not
be a good look to have my car up on ramps in the parking lot!

Thanks again all.
 
Yes, they are all good oils.

No, you can switch brands as much as you want. Even switch from syn to dino if you want.

If there are no regulations specifically forbidding it, as long as you don't make a mess or get in the way of others, I wouldn't worry about it.
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
nice little car,my daughter has a 2002 and loves it.read the manual re;fuel,i believe they recommend 89 octane.she said to me the car runs much better and more mpg`s on the 89 octane.


Doesn't require nor need 89 octane fuel. Most cars, even high performance cars get better fuel economy with regular unleaded. Plus and Premium are more resistant to ignition, and that is why they are good for high compression and/or hot running performance engines. However, for standard everyday driving, the car is only part throttle with low cylinder pressures and regular 87 octane will ignite more efficiently.

The current Buick Toyota Camary V6 gets better fuel economy with 87 Octane and better low end torque with extra horsepower when running premium. Per the owners manual.


As far as oil goes. Having a 2006 Elantra, you have the Beta II 2.0L. The engine is similar in design to the Mitsubishi 4G63. With a turbo kit, many people run this engine up to 300 horses on the dyno using only the stock internals. That said, it is well designed. Head gasket issues are almost unheard of unless you overheat badly and the timing belt needs changed every 60K, but I've seen people go as long as 100K without the belt snapping. Don't test it though, it IS an interference engine.

Feel free to use any quality 5w20. The owners manual will allow for 7,500 mile interval w/o severe service. If I were you, I would run a quality 5w20 in the summer, and then switch to a nice synthetic 0w20 for the cold NJ winters. The top end will get a little noisy on cold starts. Synthetic seems to stop much of it.

I've seen this engine go to 450,000 miles on a 2005 Kia Sportage. The gentleman was a private courier and shuffled legal documents from place to place. He said it still ran well before a radiator hose cracked, let all the coolant go, and the engine seized up from overheating. This was during a late night drive. Did I mention he was very old.

He ran M1 10w30 all year on 15K intervals. He was a little old fashioned. I did most of his repairs and MONTHLY oil changes.
 
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