Best clutch/brake fluid.

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I`ve been using the turkey baster method to "purify" and freshen the fluids in my brakes and clutch,which spec the same fluid (DOT3/4). I had a tiny bit of Synpower fluid left. Do they still make this stuff? I haven`t seen it anywhere since. If not,who makes the best fluid,a fully synthetic of course (Synpower has a boiling point of 550F according to the label as opposed to the 300F on all others I`ve seen).
 
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Valvoline Synpower was always a solid choice for readily-available fluids. ATE Superblue/Type 200 is decent -- makes bleeding/flushing easy.

I'd go for Neo or Motul RBF if you're serious about tracking the car. There's also Castrol SRF but that's a race fluid that runs like $75/L.
 
All brake fluid is synthetic.

If it says DOT3/4 on the label, it will be fine.
I think you are mixing wet and dry boiling points in your comparison.
To be DOT 4, the minimum is 446 deg F [dry]. Paper burns at 452 F!

If you are seriously racing with very high brake and fluid temperatures, there are super expensive fluids that can help.
 
The turkey baster is not a good method for brake fluid as the master operates like a syringe the fliud doesn't circulate . It is pushed into and out of the wheel cyls .
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
The turkey baster is not a good method for brake fluid as the master operates like a syringe the fliud doesn't circulate . It is pushed into and out of the wheel cyls .


+1

dont bother, unless you do a actual bleed.
 
All brake fluid is synthetic.

In between bleeds, siphon/refill is a good way to replace the fluid, remove moisture, refresh the additive package......

Any DOT4 fluid is good enough. Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Gunk ... are typical at the local auto part or department stores.

You need to worry more about WHY your reaching the boiling point vs whether one fluid has a boiling point higher or lower than another. Wet boiling point is meaningless for those of us that bleed every year or two, and siphon/refill a couple times between bleeds. And, I have a feeling that some manufacturers are fudging the numbers a little.
 
Siphoning some fluid off the top isn't going to get watery brake fluid from rusting out your calipers/pistons/everything else down there which is kind of an important part of bleeding.
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy
All brake fluid is synthetic.

In between bleeds, siphon/refill is a good way to replace the fluid, remove moisture, refresh the additive package......

Any DOT4 fluid is good enough. Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Gunk ... are typical at the local auto part or department stores.

You need to worry more about WHY your reaching the boiling point vs whether one fluid has a boiling point higher or lower than another. Wet boiling point is meaningless for those of us that bleed every year or two, and siphon/refill a couple times between bleeds. And, I have a feeling that some manufacturers are fudging the numbers a little.

+1
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
TB brake fluid flushes are imperfect, but far from useless.
There is a lot of motion and mixing .


Yes, this is why if after a clutch fluid flush/bleed I have left over RBF 600 from a new, fresh bottle (which I ALWAYS do), I will pull the old brake fluid out of the reservoir, and fill with the newer fluid.

It's useless if it sits in the opened bottle anyway, so why not change out the old, and add the new to the brake reservoir??
 
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