Best Classic "Green" Coolant

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 23, 2015
Messages
2,244
Location
US
My MG left all its coolant on the side of the road a few weeks ago, so it's going to be getting some fresh coolant when the new radiator gets here(which seems to be taking forever, but that's where I am).

In the past, I've either used generic parts store brand or Prestone at either 33% or 50% depending on the season when I was filling it. Since this will be going in for the fall, and the new radiator should cool a bit more efficiently than the old one, I'm going straight for 50%.

There's nothing particularly special or exotic about this engine. It's a cast iron block and head with a brass/copper radiator.

Prestone green has always given me good results, but I'm wondering if there's an alternative I should consider. I'm guessing that for this engine, I can pretty much throw anything at it and be fine, but I want to make sure.
 
Have not seen Prestone classic green for sell in any store for at least a decade.

Rural King house brand Durex is what I use for classic green coolant. It's made by Peak.
 
FWIW, the radiator failure came from a bent fan blade chewing a hole in it-not it simply springing a leak with no other provocation.

IMG_0129.jpg
 
I like autozone conventional green. It needs to be mixed with distilled water. Its about $15.
 
Valvoline Zerex conventional Green is a true 5 year coolant (most greens aren't), and when I was looking around (previous car) that my mechanic told me needed it, this brand of green coolant met the most specs, so I went with that. For my current vehicles, I use Zerex Asian coolant.
 
I've always been partial to Zerek green IAT coolant only because they claim it is good for 5 years or 100,000 miles. I still change mine every 2 years. We had a discussion a few months ago here about it possibly having some organic chemistry (based on patent info), but some correspondence with their techs. supposedly dispelled that idea. https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publ...bd3/30815c70-0dbd-e711-9c12-ac162d889bd1

Preaching to the choir: this old Paul Weissler article claims that the old conventional coolant is best for iron block/copper-brass radiator systems: https://www.motor.com/magazine-summ...easy-being-green-or-yellow-or-orange-or/
 
Originally Posted by bunnspecial

In the past, I've either used generic parts store brand or Prestone at either 33% or 50% depending on the season when I was filling it. Since this will be going in for the fall, and the new radiator should cool a bit more efficiently than the old one, I'm going straight for 50%.

There's nothing particularly special or exotic about this engine. It's a cast iron block and head with a brass/copper radiator.

Green (IAT) replaces green.. the old green coolant is perfectly fine with your copper/brass radiator and iron block. Peak green is fine but so is SuperTech's. I believe Prestone makes the ST right now but Peak has in the past. Likewise your green parts store brand is being made by one of the biggies.

I suppose you could use a global but why? Green is cheap and readily available. Just D&F it every 2~3yrs and you'll be fine.

Good, short read OP..👇

https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2014/08/01/tech-101-the-colors-of-antifreeze/
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I suppose you could use a global but why? Green is cheap and readily available. Just D&F it every 2~3yrs and you'll be fine.


Maybe because you only have to D&F every 5 years? And more advanced chemistry gives better protection? You wouldn't use oil that was "modern" in the 60's in a 1960's car today when you have the latest spec oils now, would you?
 
My advice; stay away from English cars
grin.gif


I've used NAPA Classic Green coolant in the older vehicles since the original Prestone green became scarce ~10 years or so ago. From the research I did then, it seemed to be the closest to traditional conventional green. Granted I change coolant every 3 years, w/ very low mileage, but I've been satisfied. I do not trust any of the modern formulations on vintage soldered copper/brass radiators or heater cores, and don't see much of a reason to experiment.

Curious as to which new radiator you ordered and how you find the quality. I'd find someone to recore your original and keep it around as a spare.
 
Have a TR7. Back when Dexcool came out in the 90's touting extended change intervals, I flushed out all the green stuff and put in the Dexcool. Haven't had a problem yet.
 
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Mad_Hatter
I suppose you could use a global but why? Green is cheap and readily available. Just D&F it every 2~3yrs and you'll be fine.


Maybe because you only have to D&F every 5 years? And more advanced chemistry gives better protection? You wouldn't use oil that was "modern" in the 60's in a 1960's car today when you have the latest spec oils now, would you?

I doubt you could find 60yr old oil anyhow...but whatever. I've been using good old fashioned green for years (last D&F was with a LL for no particular reason, I'm still gonna change it every 2~3yrs because it's my ride, my money and I can) with no ill effects. I'm not saying a global/ newer tech is bad..all I'm saying is I've still got the OE radiator in @164k miles... and the bulk of those miles were on green.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by wings&wheels
My advice; stay away from English cars
grin.gif


I've used NAPA Classic Green coolant in the older vehicles since the original Prestone green became scarce ~10 years or so ago. From the research I did then, it seemed to be the closest to traditional conventional green. Granted I change coolant every 3 years, w/ very low mileage, but I've been satisfied. I do not trust any of the modern formulations on vintage soldered copper/brass radiators or heater cores, and don't see much of a reason to experiment.

Curious as to which new radiator you ordered and how you find the quality. I'd find someone to recore your original and keep it around as a spare.


Well, I have two, so I guess I'm stuck
smile.gif


I just got a notification that the replacement is FINALLY shipping out tomorrow, so hopefully I'll have it next week. I'll see what it looks like, but these are generally getting favorable reviews(it's apparently the same one that Moss sells as stock/OEM replacement).

A recore is alarmingly expensive, but I'll also likely hold on to the original just in case. If the replacement ends up being terrible, I'll go that route.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top