Best brake bleeding tool

I have this tool and have used it a lot. But sometimes it just can not pull enough suction on some systems. Especially on rear calipers. I have a Lisle one man bleeder tool that I bought 20 years ago for like 5 or 6 bucks. This has become my go to tool for bleeding brakes. It works like speed bleeders but you do not have to buy and install a bleeder on each wheel. I think it is very practical and effective. The Lisle or any bleeder like it gets my endorsement.
I used an industrial very high quality vacuum pump to try and bleed my brakes (used stainless steel lines to connect pump). It also did not get all the air out.. Pressure bleeder is flawless every time. I cannot understand why the vac pump didn't work, it doesn't make sense to me.

Any ideas?
 
I used an industrial very high quality vacuum pump to try and bleed my brakes (used stainless steel lines to connect pump). It also did not get all the air out.. Pressure bleeder is flawless every time. I cannot understand why the vac pump didn't work, it doesn't make sense to me.

Any ideas?
I look at it very simply. The vacuum force/pressure generated by the vac pump is not even close to the pressure generated by stepping on the brake pedal. Plus you can get leaks generated at the bleeder valve.
 
I look at it very simply. The vacuum force/pressure generated by the vac pump is not even close to the pressure generated by stepping on the brake pedal. Plus you can get leaks generated at the bleeder valve.
I knew the valve would be a weak spot so I threaded a stainless steel adaptor in it. I cannot tell you how much of a PTA it was finding an adaptor to fit the valve to the cable.. I actually used IIRC three adaptors to do it.

You're right about the hydraulic pressure, I never thought of that. I believed that a vacuum level in the 10^2 torr range would have been strong enough for it.
 
I knew the valve would be a weak spot so I threaded a stainless steel adaptor in it. I cannot tell you how much of a PTA it was finding an adaptor to fit the valve to the cable.. I actually used IIRC three adaptors to do it.

You're right about the hydraulic pressure, I never thought of that. I believed that a vacuum level in the 10^2 torr range would have been strong enough for it.
I could almost always bleed front breaks with my Mighty Vac but some rear breaks were impossible. That extra length of brake line creates a lot more resistance.
 
I have used this the most over the years but it didn't work when I was trying to bleed the brakes on my 98 Chevy K3500. I had to have someone pump the brakes from inside to get the fluid flowing.
 
Hi Guys,

I do have motive bleeder but looking for alternatives …

Has anyone used the Snapon One

Any other suggestions ?

( it must be one person operation )
Bleeding Brembo brakes


Thx
I have that snap on one. I use it at times not on all my repairs. Works well

Some vehicles just take different techniques
 
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I've used the Motive Power Bleeder for years with great results and a turkey baster to empty the brake fluid reservoir prior to filling with Ate TYP 200 brake fluid.
 
I bought the Speedi-Bleeder but have not tried it as yet.
I hope you've used it by now and are enjoying it.

I've had my Speedi-Bleed for 13 years.
Used it seven times so far / I like it / it's paided for itself several times over.
Made in Canada.
My suggestions:
1) I hook mine to an air-compressor (regulator at 20 lbs).
2) Set Speedi-Bleed regulator to 10 lbs.
3) Buy the adaptor cap for your specific vehicle / don't use the universal adaptor.
4) Apply some 'thick' grease around threads of bleeder-screws
5) Careful disconnecting (from reservoir) when finished or you could suck brake fluid into the regulator / read the instructions.
6) I clean it after use with alcohol and let air dry overnight, then put away.
 
I've got a vacuum bleeder but they suck air in around the threads of he bleeder valve so it is really hard to tell if you are getting all the air out. Usually the air in the fluid comes out in bigger bubbles, the air passing the threads is are small bubbles.

Got Brembos too and I just let them gravity bleed.
 
I attach a 2' hose to the bleeder screw. Taped a bolt to the bottom end, and drop it into a clean container with 1" of fresh brake fluid in it. Attach the upper end to the bleeder, and crack the bleeder open a bit. Once you pump the brake pedal, the 2' hose will self-bleed, preventing air returning to the wheel cylinder. I continue to pump the pedal, to force out any bubbles sticking to surfaces in the lines or calipers.
 
Properly sized tube to seal over the bleeder and an old Little Ceasars drink bottle. Hose comes straight off the bleeder, and up 6 inches or so before going into the bottle. Crack the bleeder and pump the pedal. I've been doing that for ages and since there is always fluid above the bleeder in the tube, it never sucks air back into the caliper.

I did have speed bleeders on my Miata, and that was a little extra insurance that you wouldn't get air in there, but if I had it to do over, I'd just use the same method I use now.
 
I've got a vacuum bleeder but they suck air in around the threads of he bleeder valve so it is really hard to tell if you are getting all the air out. Usually the air in the fluid comes out in bigger bubbles, the air passing the threads is are small bubbles.

Got Brembos too and I just let them gravity bleed.
I have a motive bleeder and I like it, but I do use the mity vac once in while. For the mity vac, you need to remove the bleeder screws first and wrap Teflon tape around the threads to keep from sucking air past them.
 
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