Hands down the best batteries are Odyssey, expensive but they are by far the best battery... If you want another alternative, go to Batteries Plus and buy one in their X2 line.
Best Batteries?
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Very interesting read, although I still have my doubts as to it's accuracy measuring DC (this may just be my failing). 8 amps is a lot of draw for a factory car stereo when you think about RMS output (maybe you had it turned up all the way with some music kids like these days).
Someone else did say it was within 2 or 3 amps of an inline meter (10A max), so that could equate to 20 or 30% difference near 100A. I'd believe 80A idle out of a modern alternator much more easily than I would 100A at idle on a 120A max alternator.
Perhaps they have done a better job of winding construction and retention, and the rotor can withstand higher peak speeds, and all they've done is fit it with a smaller pulley. In that case, It would become much more believable.
But what really matters is you said the voltage dropped at high output at idle. This is what matters. more current at a lower voltage is still lower voltage, which is what happens when you exceed the output of an alternator.
As the voltage falls, you notice things dim. I highly doubt suzuki puts as much care into small things like lights dimming as saab would, given the target markets.
Odyssey batteries are also AGM batteries, so if you want to go that route over optima, it makes no difference to me.
However I think the only two things that will alleviate the dimming lights in JHXC's vehicle are a higher output alternator, or a capacitor to smooth out voltage drop from sudden loads.
Adding a capacitor has other benefits as well. It will reduce stress on both the battery and alternator, as neither will be asked to respond so suddenly to large fluctuations in the system.
Assuming you don't know, if you add a big capacitor to a car, you need to be cautious when connecting / disconnecting it or the battery (and definitely the capacitor) from the car. a capacitor of that size will easily discharge all it's energy in a fraction of a second at 10,000 amps if you let it (like if you disconnect the positive terminal and let it touch the frame).
While 12v is not terribly hazardous to people, 10,000 amps at any voltage should not be taken lightly. removing a battery while there's a capacitor in the system also means the system still has voltage until the capacitor has been drained (leaving a door open with the dome light on will accomplish this in short order). If you take it in for someone else to work on, you should probably let them know about it.
Often, capacitors come with a 10w lightbulb and instructions for charging the capacitor when purchased. Just remember how much energy is stored in that capacitor when you're working on the car.
Someone else did say it was within 2 or 3 amps of an inline meter (10A max), so that could equate to 20 or 30% difference near 100A. I'd believe 80A idle out of a modern alternator much more easily than I would 100A at idle on a 120A max alternator.
Perhaps they have done a better job of winding construction and retention, and the rotor can withstand higher peak speeds, and all they've done is fit it with a smaller pulley. In that case, It would become much more believable.
But what really matters is you said the voltage dropped at high output at idle. This is what matters. more current at a lower voltage is still lower voltage, which is what happens when you exceed the output of an alternator.
As the voltage falls, you notice things dim. I highly doubt suzuki puts as much care into small things like lights dimming as saab would, given the target markets.
Odyssey batteries are also AGM batteries, so if you want to go that route over optima, it makes no difference to me.
However I think the only two things that will alleviate the dimming lights in JHXC's vehicle are a higher output alternator, or a capacitor to smooth out voltage drop from sudden loads.
Adding a capacitor has other benefits as well. It will reduce stress on both the battery and alternator, as neither will be asked to respond so suddenly to large fluctuations in the system.
Assuming you don't know, if you add a big capacitor to a car, you need to be cautious when connecting / disconnecting it or the battery (and definitely the capacitor) from the car. a capacitor of that size will easily discharge all it's energy in a fraction of a second at 10,000 amps if you let it (like if you disconnect the positive terminal and let it touch the frame).
While 12v is not terribly hazardous to people, 10,000 amps at any voltage should not be taken lightly. removing a battery while there's a capacitor in the system also means the system still has voltage until the capacitor has been drained (leaving a door open with the dome light on will accomplish this in short order). If you take it in for someone else to work on, you should probably let them know about it.
Often, capacitors come with a 10w lightbulb and instructions for charging the capacitor when purchased. Just remember how much energy is stored in that capacitor when you're working on the car.
Originally Posted By: u3b3rg33k
8 amps is a lot of draw for a factory car stereo when you think about RMS output (maybe you had it turned up all the way with some music kids like these days).
It's more than just the radio that's powered up with the key in the OFF position (there is no ACC position..it goes LOCK OFF ON START). Most of the modules in the car are powered up too. In fact, there is a several amp draw for several minutes even with the key removed before the modules all go to "sleep"..and Saab did have some issues with modules not going to sleep at all, draining the battery. This was fixed with software updates early on (so mine was not affected).
Quote:
Someone else did say it was within 2 or 3 amps of an inline meter (10A max), so that could equate to 20 or 30% difference near 100A. I'd believe 80A idle out of a modern alternator much more easily than I would 100A at idle on a 120A max alternator.
It's possible, but note that the max reading I was able to obtain was very close to the alternator's rated output. Also, I zero'd out the reading after I placed the meter, but before I started the engine.
Quote:
I highly doubt suzuki puts as much care into small things like lights dimming as saab would, given the target markets.
The Saab, in fact, will increase the idle speed after several minutes of high current draw. I did not measure the increase in output from this idle increase, in fact, I didn't discover that feature until later on.
8 amps is a lot of draw for a factory car stereo when you think about RMS output (maybe you had it turned up all the way with some music kids like these days).
It's more than just the radio that's powered up with the key in the OFF position (there is no ACC position..it goes LOCK OFF ON START). Most of the modules in the car are powered up too. In fact, there is a several amp draw for several minutes even with the key removed before the modules all go to "sleep"..and Saab did have some issues with modules not going to sleep at all, draining the battery. This was fixed with software updates early on (so mine was not affected).
Quote:
Someone else did say it was within 2 or 3 amps of an inline meter (10A max), so that could equate to 20 or 30% difference near 100A. I'd believe 80A idle out of a modern alternator much more easily than I would 100A at idle on a 120A max alternator.
It's possible, but note that the max reading I was able to obtain was very close to the alternator's rated output. Also, I zero'd out the reading after I placed the meter, but before I started the engine.
Quote:
I highly doubt suzuki puts as much care into small things like lights dimming as saab would, given the target markets.
The Saab, in fact, will increase the idle speed after several minutes of high current draw. I did not measure the increase in output from this idle increase, in fact, I didn't discover that feature until later on.
Originally Posted By: u3b3rg33k
Any reasons you don't like them?
One, being they are bought by JC (jonnston controls). I've both heard and seem (co workers cars) that the quality has gone down with them. And for most people, they are really overpriced...
I think if you go that route, I'd get a Deka made AGM battery (Aborbed glass mat). Many red tops get replaced by these around here...
Any reasons you don't like them?
One, being they are bought by JC (jonnston controls). I've both heard and seem (co workers cars) that the quality has gone down with them. And for most people, they are really overpriced...
I think if you go that route, I'd get a Deka made AGM battery (Aborbed glass mat). Many red tops get replaced by these around here...
Originally Posted By: brianl703
The Saab, in fact, will increase the idle speed after several minutes of high current draw. I did not measure the increase in output from this idle increase, in fact, I didn't discover that feature until later on.
That is an excellent feature. Too bad more cars don't have it (I know I wish mine did).
The Saab, in fact, will increase the idle speed after several minutes of high current draw. I did not measure the increase in output from this idle increase, in fact, I didn't discover that feature until later on.
That is an excellent feature. Too bad more cars don't have it (I know I wish mine did).
Originally Posted By: artificialist
Originally Posted By: lexus114
I would like to know where I can purchase a Panasonic car battery.
I think the reason you don't see them is because shipping a battery alone from Japan to the USA is not considered practical.
I only see Panasonic batteries in new cars that were built in Japan.
My 6 1/2 years old OEM Panasonic battery (small size 51) in my 2004 Honda S2000 still in very good shape, it starts the car in 1 push start button.
I would buy it if it's available at Honda dealer but none carries it.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
I would like to know where I can purchase a Panasonic car battery.
I think the reason you don't see them is because shipping a battery alone from Japan to the USA is not considered practical.
I only see Panasonic batteries in new cars that were built in Japan.
My 6 1/2 years old OEM Panasonic battery (small size 51) in my 2004 Honda S2000 still in very good shape, it starts the car in 1 push start button.
I would buy it if it's available at Honda dealer but none carries it.
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