Best and worst Diesel pick up engines?

[JavierH19]

How many horses. I have a friend that tows 3 horses with a 2014 6.2l gas 4 door long bed DRW f350 and has zero power issues with it when i asked him how it performs compared to his old 7.3 1992 f250. Most likely don't need to shell out the big pointless bucks on a diesel. The 6.7psd is a 10k option but the optional 7.3 gas is just 2k and an even bigger beast which id say is the best deal

A 4 horse trailer is gonna be like 4.5-5.5k pounds and a horse is around 1000lbs

I also wouldn't bother in getting a 4wd or LSD just a regular 2wd will do just fine, get an ELD if you want. Less issues and they work better on mud from experience. I've taken my 2wd 2003 sierra into muddy roads and wet clay without getting stuck plenty of times. 4wd is mostly unnecessary in all honesty, I regret spending extra on it on my other trucks.

I used to own an old 7.5L 460 1995 f350 that was 2wd, srw, and manual and i had zero power issues towing a 1998 gmc sierra ext cab i took to mexico on the back of a trailer. Almost forgot i had it behind me going 70mph and that old gasser is weak by todays standards.

Unless its towing a ton a diesel is gonna be pointless. The 7.3 gas would be a beauty and that's a very powerful and reliable engine too. Just a glorious 2 valve OHV with no cyl deactivation baloney or gdi hoo ha like my 6.2 escalade. Already range'd it and will have to do an intake deposit cleaning once it hits 40k or so. God i love the simple OHV's in my 03 and 05 gmc's, over 500k combined since new with no issues.

My pick would be the 7.3L gas and i'd get a long bed DRW f350. 6.7psd isnt needed unless hes towing the barn.

If hes just towing 2 horses any newer quarter ton with the stronger engine and diff options would be just fine. I see many quarter tons towing trailers with 1-2 horses or being packed with goats or sheep in my rural texas.

 

[dareo]

If

your LLY was in a van it was likely a derated engine due to the transmission limitations. The LLY in a pickup was a turd. Prone to head gasket failure due in part to the inadequate cooling systems. The head gaskets on mine gave up at 105k (conveniently out of warranty) its an expensive repair with a book time of around 30 hrs. The gaskets had the fire ring blown out about an inch on the rear most cylinders, lay them on each other and they were a mirror image. It wouldnt tow half of its rated capacity in 80 degree weather on flat ground without the fan howling and the temps around 230. Dealer and GM said there was nothing wrong with it. The guys out west had a fit with these, any grades made the problems way worse.

Vans were de rated to like 250hp, but still plenty of power. Sorry to hear your HG went. Anyone shopping today might face that issue but more than likely it would have been replaced by now.

The LBZ is the best but i would buy an LLY truck again and not worry. If your really loading it down it would be best to buy a new one with far higher ratings.

 

[Rmay635703]

Best and worst Diesel engine was my 1982 6.2 C-code diesel with a 5 speed stick and 2wd

Basically no maintenance in the 438,000 miles before rust made it undrivable
28mpg highway , zero HP but always went where I needed it.

The diesels now days have lots of power but really can’t compare in simplicity and cost.

For a while you could get in box mil spec 6.2s for $50 off auction
As long as you kept the power down they were cheap, underpowered and reliable.

 

[ZZman]

How many horses. I have a friend that tows 3 horses with a 2014 6.2l gas 4 door long bed DRW f350 and has zero power issues with it when i asked him how it performs compared to his old 7.3 1992 f250. Most likely don't need to shell out the big pointless bucks on a diesel. The 6.7psd is a 10k option but the optional 7.3 gas is just 2k and an even bigger beast which id say is the best deal

A 4 horse trailer is gonna be like 4.5-5.5k pounds and a horse is around 1000lbs

I also wouldn't bother in getting a 4wd or LSD just a regular 2wd will do just fine, get an ELD if you want. Less issues and they work better on mud from experience. I've taken my 2wd 2003 sierra into muddy roads and wet clay without getting stuck plenty of times. 4wd is mostly unnecessary in all honesty, I regret spending extra on it on my other trucks.

I used to own an old 7.5L 460 1995 f350 that was 2wd, srw, and manual and i had zero power issues towing a 1998 gmc sierra ext cab i took to mexico on the back of a trailer. Almost forgot i had it behind me going 70mph and that old gasser is weak by todays standards.

Unless its towing a ton a diesel is gonna be pointless. The 7.3 gas would be a beauty and that's a very powerful and reliable engine too. Just a glorious 2 valve OHV with no cyl deactivation baloney or gdi hoo ha like my 6.2 escalade. Already range'd it and will have to do an intake deposit cleaning once it hits 40k or so. God i love the simple OHV's in my 03 and 05 gmc's, over 500k combined since new with no issues.

My pick would be the 7.3L gas and i'd get a long bed DRW f350. 6.7psd isnt needed unless hes towing the barn.

If hes just towing 2 horses any newer quarter ton with the stronger engine and diff options would be just fine. I see many quarter tons towing trailers with 1-2 horses or being packed with goats or sheep in my rural texas.

LSD and ELD?

 

[JavierH19]

LSD and ELD?

Limited slip differential or electronic locking differential. Eld locks both rear wheels when you want and it works best off road with 2wd from experience. both lock at the same time and usually prevent loss of traction when reversing and attaching a trailer on mud or wet clay which is slippery from experience on my farm in tomball texas. With lsd I've seen one tire spin and then the other but once one spins and the other then starts to spin it's too late but having both locked at the same time usually prevents that since both work together always. But it's terrible to have an eld on when making turns especially on pavement with traction since a tire will screech and wear a lot faster while it isn't an issue with an lsd or 4wd but an odd isn't needed on pavement. Most trucks offer both as an option like ford.

 

[tnt_motorsports]

I love my 2012 Ram Cummins (6.7L). When I bought it in 2016 I did not want a FT4 (DEF) unit. FT4 units are more advanced but still plagued with some issues. If he buys a new one I recommend a few things regardless of brand...

1. fresh fuel, show at busy places and don't chase penny's on diesel.
2. fuel system maintenance is important, change filters as recommended and use OEM ones
3. if FT4 buy DEF at high volume places, or boxed and don't fill the tank. DEF goes bad and can cause issues with the emissions system

As far as towing I would not buy a gas pickup. The noise alone from 4,000+ RPM would piss me and my wife off. I like the cool 1,800 - 2,200RPM of my Cummins. hard to talk on road trips over a large displacement gas engine screaming away.

just my $0.02

 

[64bawagon]

Vans were de rated to like 250hp, but still plenty of power. Sorry to hear your HG went. Anyone shopping today might face that issue but more than likely it would have been replaced by now.

The LBZ is the best but i would buy an LLY truck again and not worry. If your really loading it down it would be best to buy a new one with far higher ratings.

In contrast, my 2021 3500HD with the 6.6 gas engine has an adequate cooling system. I have pulled my 11k fifth wheel at least 5000 miles since I got it and I still have no idea what the engine cooling fan sounds like. The temp gauge has never once waivered over the 195/200 area. (although GM has a history of dumbing the temp gauges on the LLY trucks once they figured out their mistake and how hot they ran)

 

[BituminousCoal]

For 2000s, the duramax is the best imo. Cummins 5.9 is just as good but the truck is worse than a GM. 7.3 ford is reliable but thirsty and they are afraid of the cold.

My recently sold 6.6 duramax lly powered cargo van ran like butter in a cold start or otherwise.

If your talking brand new i think they are close enough in reliability to chose based on the body and interior that you like most.

The 7.3 is no more thirsty than the other ones. It is definitely NOT afraid of the cold. Hundreds of thousands of miles on my trucks and the start unaided -20 to -25F somewhat regularly.

The glow plugs have to be good and 0w40 or 5w40 must be used, no 15w40 at those temps.

 

[Donald]

How many horses. I have a friend that tows 3 horses with a 2014 6.2l gas 4 door long bed DRW f350 and has zero power issues with it when i asked him how it performs compared to his old 7.3 1992 f250. Most likely don't need to shell out the big pointless bucks on a diesel. The 6.7psd is a 10k option but the optional 7.3 gas is just 2k and an even bigger beast which id say is the best deal

A 4 horse trailer is gonna be like 4.5-5.5k pounds and a horse is around 1000lbs

I also wouldn't bother in getting a 4wd or LSD just a regular 2wd will do just fine, get an ELD if you want. Less issues and they work better on mud from experience. I've taken my 2wd 2003 sierra into muddy roads and wet clay without getting stuck plenty of times. 4wd is mostly unnecessary in all honesty, I regret spending extra on it on my other trucks.

I used to own an old 7.5L 460 1995 f350 that was 2wd, srw, and manual and i had zero power issues towing a 1998 gmc sierra ext cab i took to mexico on the back of a trailer. Almost forgot i had it behind me going 70mph and that old gasser is weak by todays standards.

Unless its towing a ton a diesel is gonna be pointless. The 7.3 gas would be a beauty and that's a very powerful and reliable engine too. Just a glorious 2 valve OHV with no cyl deactivation baloney or gdi hoo ha like my 6.2 escalade. Already range'd it and will have to do an intake deposit cleaning once it hits 40k or so. God i love the simple OHV's in my 03 and 05 gmc's, over 500k combined since new with no issues.

My pick would be the 7.3L gas and i'd get a long bed DRW f350. 6.7psd isnt needed unless hes towing the barn.

If hes just towing 2 horses any newer quarter ton with the stronger engine and diff options would be just fine. I see many quarter tons towing trailers with 1-2 horses or being packed with goats or sheep in my rural texas.

Shouldn't the horse be pulling the trailer instead of riding in it?

 

[dareo]

The 7.3 is no more thirsty than the other ones. It is definitely NOT afraid of the cold. Hundreds of thousands of miles on my trucks and the start unaided -20 to -25F somewhat regularly.

The glow plugs have to be good and 0w40 or 5w40 must be used, no 15w40 at those temps.

Had a 7.3 van before the 6.6 duramax van, in the same use case of highway 40+ mile freeway the duramax beat the 7.3 by about 1.5-2 mpg every time. My 7.3 van would start but like you say everything has to be good. Full battery charge, 5w40, cycling the glow plugs the appropriate amount of time, and it would fire up. Cold starts were a bigger ask than the duramax. It would no joke start the same at 20 degrees as it would at 80 degrees.

A 7.3 powerstroke truck if you can find a nice one would be a good buy. There were no crew cab cummins in that time frame so having the 4 doors might be better than 1-2 MPG given up vs the cummins/dmax.

Probably more important to talk about what not to buy, the 6.0 and 6.4 powerstroke powered vehicles just don't do it!

 

[CDX825]

6.0 powerstroke gets a lot of hate but they are reliable if treated right. I know of two local to me pushing 400k without any major work done.

 

[dareo]

When you find a clean, low mileage, pre emissions diesel truck in the best color ever "silver birch metallic" and fall in love. Until you see the price, likely more than the first owner paid brand new in 2005 for it. 2006 with 81k miles for $39,995. Ad mentions you will need a down payment because its so far above book price heheh.

 

[dnewton3]

A friend of mine is looking for a Diesel pick up to haul a horse trailer. What are your thoughts on the best diesel engine in a major brand pick up as far as reliability, etc....

Unlike most here, I'm going to ask a few questions first, so I understand what the goal is ...

First, are we talking new or used?
If new, would he/she consider gas?
If used, how "old" is he willing to accept?
If used, how recent can he/she afford?
Does he/she need 4wd?
Does he/she want automatic or manual trans?
How big of a horse trailer? What expected max weight?
Will this be a DD or just a WW truck?


You see, these should play into the decision together. One should "weigh" each topic as a valuation of a percentage of the overall; maybe cost reigns over power? Maybe reliability reins over convenience? Etc ...

The thing is, unless your friend is willing to accept a concept of a frankenstein-modded truck (this engine with that trans in that chassis ...), there are ALWAYS going to be compromises. If one stays with a stock OEM configuration, getting the "most reliable" diesel engine may mean you're getting a less reliable transmssion or chassis that doesn't age well.
- Many would agree that the 5.9 Cummins is probably at the top of the "reliable" list (shared perhaps with the 7.3L PSD), but the Cummins comes in a Dodge chassis (frame and suspension issues) and sits in front of a Chrysler trans (weaker than some other brands). It's not that you cannot fix the Dodge chassis and trans issues and beef them up, but you're going to spend money at "fixing" problems.
- You can apply that same $$$ logic to a Ford (excellent chassis, good trans, and then "Bullit Proof" a 6.0L PSD) for example.
- If you get an older GM (The "best" Duramax is probably the LBZ; I had one), but then you have to worry about corrosion taking over the entire chassis: brake lines, trans lines, steering lines, fuel cooler, ABS sensors on the front wheel hubs, ABS controller beneath bed ... ALL of these things ruined my lovely 2006 LBZ truck ... not to mention the "pump rub" issue in the t-case ... ALL of them had to be fixed before my truck even hit 55k miles of ownership! My LBZ/Allison sat in one of the worst chassis I've evern owned.

And if your friend wants a new truck, just know that eventually any of the brands will be suffering from the emmissions-driven equipment issues somewhere down the road. The engines themseles are pretty decent; it's all the garbage they hang on the engine and stuff under the truck that eventually causes folks to rethink owning a "modern diesel".


It's foolish to ONLY look at one topic; that of "most reliable engine". Heck, even the vaunted 5.9L had some issues with the "Killer Dowl Pin", and cracked blocks in a short range of years. Your friend should look at the overall picture, decide what he/she can spend, decide what problems they can afford to repair, decide what issues they can tolerate and live with, etc. Then go find a truck that gives the least compromises in their price range.

 

[BrianF]

Only emission problem I ran into on my 2017 6.7 was the def heater quit. Its integrated into the pump and I think the dealer wanted 2400 for the pump alone..... if they could get one during covid. The dpf, egr and scr all seemed to work just fine. Mind you I deleted after that. Can't haul safely when it keeps counting down.

 

[racin4ds]

I'd take a deleted Ford 6.0 PSD any day, power and reliable! For pure reliability it would be a 7.3 PSD or a pre-98 Cummins 5.9!! Anything newer with all the SCR/DPF etc is trouble!

 

[mattd]

People are so afraid of the 6.0 PSD when they shouldn’t be. There are permanent fixes for the factory shortcomings. If I could find another one rust free (lost my last one to rot) within 1500 miles I would have bought one before my 6.7.

 

[Warwagon]

Consider a used Medium Duty as they can be cheaper than a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup.

Gasoline can be a better choice as mentioned. V6 gas engines generally go for 250K miles unmolested. Diesels will be asking "What's in Your Wallet?" for a injector set and/or other expensive repairs before 250K.

Just keep in mind no one wants a used gasoline pickup with over 100K on it and the resale shows.

New or you deal with overpriced resale values and Someone Else's Problems. Now is really not a good time to buy.

As "Fuel Quality is Your Problem" you want to avoid the proven failure CP4 High Pressure Injection Pump. It's a question of getting out of warranty (A bill that can be around $10,000) if the OEM can: Does your insurance company, fuel station, or you pay?

You are left with (New) GM Duramax and 2021+ RAM Cummins. (2019 and 2020 RAM Cummins used the CP4 till they figured out that expensive mistake. So avoid any leftover 2020 RAM.)

Mix up the DEF and Diesel and it's on you and/or your insurance in any Diesel.

If you are looking at 1/2 ton with their "Light Duty" Diesels ... either step up to a 2500 in Diesel or stick to a gasoline engine. 1/2 ton: none of the capabilities and all of the Diesel problems. And Light Duty Diesels at that in the 1/2 tons designed for MPG hauling the groceries.

In the RAM you can opt for the 3500 with the Aisin trans to avoid the Chrysler transmission.

4x4 costs less than you will pay in taxes. (~$3000) Explicit example: Resale/trade time 4X4 adds $10,000 value on the 3rd Gen 5.9 Dodge Cummins pickups.

Get the Factory backed extended warranty GM or MOPAR. Avoid the aftermarket "Waste your and the shop's time" warranties. Negating the 'take it anywhere' for repairs claimed advantage to aftermarket warranties: You would take it somewhere other than the dealer under warranty why?

Plan to get rid of it before the warranty is up and all the expensive emissions equipment is on you. Make a note that extended warranties are "smart" and some have excluded specific parts of the emissions system. This includes factory backed extended warranties. Plan to trade accordingly.

 

[bleve]

Unlike most here, I'm going to ask a few questions first, so I understand what the goal is ...

First, are we talking new or used?
If new, would he/she consider gas?
If used, how "old" is he willing to accept?
If used, how recent can he/she afford?
Does he/she need 4wd?
Does he/she want automatic or manual trans?
How big of a horse trailer? What expected max weight?
Will this be a DD or just a WW truck?

I'm "the friend" and appreciate the detailed response.

Most likely looking at used. Price range would be $40-45k. To expand on your question we're looking for a 3/4 or one ton extended or crew cab with an 8' bed and 4x4. Heaviest thing we tow would be a gooseneck horse trailer about 10k but we also have a stock trailer, flatbed and the occasional hay wagon. Generally speaking this would be used as a truck, too haul and carry stuff, not a daily driver.

I lean diesel because that's what the majority of horse people recommend for going thru mountains and while we currently live in MI we plan on traveling more in the future. We currently use a 95 f250 manual with the 7.3, I'd prefer to get away from the manual (although my wife disagrees).

I'm not opposed to gas per se but I remember getting maybe 6 mpg when towing a similar trailer with a gas 3/4 ton in some hilly parts of IN. And being underpowered. That was probably 20 years ago though.

 

[BrianF]

Also, I guess anything can happen to anyone at any time. My 6.7 needed a front main seal at 50,000km, injectors 1 and 5 around 80,000km and aisin trans rear output just under 100,000km. Mine escaped the water pump recall though. Not bullet proof by any means.

Most of what I do, a gas would suffice. Hauling a few horses here and there on the prairies truly needs F all in power. But a few times that I haul hay or feed, you cannot match the diesel. 3.42 gears and all. I've had her scaled at 33,000 pounds combined and she still had more. She seems most happy at 28k and under though. I can haul more feed, faster, safer and using less fuel with my diesel.

Again, most of what I do a gas HD truck would do just fine but when I do haul heavy, the diesel makes up for its greater cost and then some. I surmise my break even point has already been hit.

 

[MacManus99]

When towing, power is convenience. I used to scale about 40k in an 8500 GMC equipped with a 250hp C7 Scatterpillar. Far more important than power is how the trucks steers and stops with a load behind it. Convenience of power is nice, but you pay for it. To some, it's worth every penny, others not so much. Only you can decide what it's worth.

Any of the big 3 HD trucks will laugh at 10k lbs. If I was in @bleve shoes, I would try to rent a similar truck to what you are looking at, and see how it handles your hay wagon or some of your heavier loads. This may also bring other issues to light that sway your decision.

Best of luck with the search.