I have always driven manual transmissions but I recently purchased a 1990 f150 with a 351 and an automatic transmission. I will probably be changing the transmission fluid in a day or two, which is something I have never done before. Could anyone advise me on a good atf for this vehicle? I dont really know exactly what transmission it has but there is a button on the dash that cuts the overdrive off for towing. Also, is there anything specific I should know about changing the fluid? I thought I read something somewhere about flushing the transmisson but I am unsure how to do it or if it is really necessary. Thanks in advance.
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Look on the Amsoil website for details for your exact vehicle. It will list which of their ATFs, plus the capacity of the pan and total capacity. It also lists the lubricant for the transfer case and the diffs.
You need to drop the pan and change the filter, clean any sludge from the pan with a rag and clean/replace magnet. I would do this with Walmart Supertech ATF that is spec'ed for your vehicle. Go a thousand miles, then do a cooler line flush with the most expensive ATF you can afford (Amsoil is the best and most expensive). Also spend $20 and install a Magnefine filter or more $$ and install a spin on filter since you probably have the room.
Many people use Maxlife or M1 ATF. Just get an ATF that is spec'ed for your vehicle. No additives.
You need to drop the pan and change the filter, clean any sludge from the pan with a rag and clean/replace magnet. I would do this with Walmart Supertech ATF that is spec'ed for your vehicle. Go a thousand miles, then do a cooler line flush with the most expensive ATF you can afford (Amsoil is the best and most expensive). Also spend $20 and install a Magnefine filter or more $$ and install a spin on filter since you probably have the room.
Many people use Maxlife or M1 ATF. Just get an ATF that is spec'ed for your vehicle. No additives.
My truck didn't take too well to Supertech ATF or Accel ATF. It shifted smooth for a short while, then all you know what broke loose. It shifted rough until I poured in a bottle of Seafoam Transtune and that made it shift somewhat better while I did some homework on fluid.
I eventually ended up going with with Valvoline Maxlife and my truck shifted so smooth (especially on the downshifts), it made me a bit nervous because it took on a whole different personality with it being so smooth.
My recommendation is go with a name brand ATF and you'll be ok. Go cheap and it's a 50/50 proposition. I've heard that Castrol High Mileage and the Valvoline Dex/Merc in the blue bottle are good as well, but I can't confirm either.
It sounds like you have the E4OD transmission, but the way you determine it is by the pattern of the transmission pan. The link below has a guide to what to look for.
Ford Transmission Type Identification
Also, if you have the E4OD, there is a drain plug on the torque converter that you can remove to drain additional fluid.
I eventually ended up going with with Valvoline Maxlife and my truck shifted so smooth (especially on the downshifts), it made me a bit nervous because it took on a whole different personality with it being so smooth.
My recommendation is go with a name brand ATF and you'll be ok. Go cheap and it's a 50/50 proposition. I've heard that Castrol High Mileage and the Valvoline Dex/Merc in the blue bottle are good as well, but I can't confirm either.
It sounds like you have the E4OD transmission, but the way you determine it is by the pattern of the transmission pan. The link below has a guide to what to look for.
Ford Transmission Type Identification
Also, if you have the E4OD, there is a drain plug on the torque converter that you can remove to drain additional fluid.
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In addition to the fluid recommendations, by draining the torque converter (assuming E4OD) and the transmission pan, a "flush" is not necessary because over 90% of the fluid will be drained.
Also, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to purchase a transmission pan ($25-$35 new) for a 4R100 transmission because it has the same bolt pattern, meaning it will fit, and a built in drain plug, which makes fluid changes A LOT easier in the future.
Also, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to purchase a transmission pan ($25-$35 new) for a 4R100 transmission because it has the same bolt pattern, meaning it will fit, and a built in drain plug, which makes fluid changes A LOT easier in the future.
If your vehicle has a drain for the converter, then that is an option. You need to change the filter and all the fluid. If you install an inline filter, you probably never will need to change the internal filter again.
Thanks for all the help guys. Ill go by the auto parts tomorrow and get the filter and gasket and drain the convertor and pan, change the filter and put everything back together and fill with a quality fluid. One last question though. I crawled under the truck when I had a spare minute today at work and could not find a drain on the convertor. Where would it be located at if my vehicle has one? Is it a standard plug like you might find on a differential?
Converter drains are rare. Most do not have them.
Originally Posted By: 1911man6910
Thanks for all the help guys. Ill go by the auto parts tomorrow and get the filter and gasket and drain the convertor and pan, change the filter and put everything back together and fill with a quality fluid. One last question though. I crawled under the truck when I had a spare minute today at work and could not find a drain on the convertor. Where would it be located at if my vehicle has one? Is it a standard plug like you might find on a differential?
If indeed your vehicle has a drain on the converter, then I think you need to take off a cover to get to it. Might need to rotate the inside to get to it. I have never had a vehicle with a converter drain, so this is just from reading.
IMHO, the using a cooler line is much easier.
Thanks for all the help guys. Ill go by the auto parts tomorrow and get the filter and gasket and drain the convertor and pan, change the filter and put everything back together and fill with a quality fluid. One last question though. I crawled under the truck when I had a spare minute today at work and could not find a drain on the convertor. Where would it be located at if my vehicle has one? Is it a standard plug like you might find on a differential?
If indeed your vehicle has a drain on the converter, then I think you need to take off a cover to get to it. Might need to rotate the inside to get to it. I have never had a vehicle with a converter drain, so this is just from reading.
IMHO, the using a cooler line is much easier.
1911man, there should be a rubber "plug" or cover on the bottom of the bellhousing...it may sit flush. Pull that plug and it provides access to the torque converter drain plug. Unless you get really lucky, you'll need to have a buddy rotate the engine until the drain plug is visible. Be advised that it will drain VERY slowly, so put a pan under it and go have a beer...but not so many that you forget to put the plug back in.
The converter drain plug would be a round black cover that's about the size of the top of a milk jug (best size comparison I could come up with) that you'd have to pop off of the bottom of the bellhousing part of the transmission to access the drain plug. The way I access the drain plug is take the wire off the ignition coil and get someone to bump the starter until I see the drain plug. It could be possible that your truck doesn't have one if it's not the E4OD.
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