What's the difference? Automotive wheel bearing grease (The kind I used to pack my TR-4's wheel bearings with) or bicycle bearing grease? Wonder what they used back in the 50's at the factory.
Bearing Grease
- Thread starter borgward
- Start date
I use an old tub of wheel bearing grease when I reassemble my bike after cleaning. MUCH less expensive than the bike-specific grease.
Kestas
Staff member
I doubt the difference in greases is not that great for bicycles, but there is one application where it may not be suited... the steering column. These bearings don't see full rotation, and are subject to micromotion, just like universal joints. Ideally, for this application you want a thin grease, like a Grade 1. The thin grease has better reflow properties where the rollers push it aside.
You don't need a bicycle specific grease, but you need to use a grease of appropriate viscosity. Preferably, one with water resistance, extreme pressure additives, and a tackifier agent is useful.
I use Schaeffer's 221, NLGI #1 or #2 depending on the application, whether cars or bikes or anything else. Using this grease, I've got bicycle bearings with 20k miles on them that still spin butter smooth under load and look like new. You should get similar results with any high quality grease.
Not all greases are miscible, so don't mix them. If you change greases, you should thoroughly clean the bearings.
I use Schaeffer's 221, NLGI #1 or #2 depending on the application, whether cars or bikes or anything else. Using this grease, I've got bicycle bearings with 20k miles on them that still spin butter smooth under load and look like new. You should get similar results with any high quality grease.
Not all greases are miscible, so don't mix them. If you change greases, you should thoroughly clean the bearings.
There is lots of good bicycle grease. Regular white lithium works well. Maxima makes a good grease for bikes. Finish Line. Kubler. I’m liking a grease from the UK distributed by Unior. I prefer white grease but that’s me. I honestly don’t think bicycles are very demanding of grease.
I have Red Line CV-2 in a freshly revived Shimano hub.
I've just used the marine wheel bearing grease that I've always used on my trailers. I figure, Lance never had anything to fear from me, a bit extra of drag was the least of my worries. One less thing on the shelf. [Although I do buy "fancy" chain lube.]
What did they use in the 1950's? no idea but I bet it in no way compares to today.'s greases
What did they use in the 1950's? no idea but I bet it in no way compares to today.'s greases
Hi Folks,
Kestas, thanks for the comments about specific needs for headset grease.
I work some with kids and bikes so am currently using low-toxicity Crystal Grease:
https://www.whitelightningco.com/products/grease/crystal-grease
It's kinda pricey.
Any suggestions for other low-toxicity greases and/or oils, at lower cost?
Thanks and good health, Weogo
Kestas, thanks for the comments about specific needs for headset grease.
I work some with kids and bikes so am currently using low-toxicity Crystal Grease:
https://www.whitelightningco.com/products/grease/crystal-grease
It's kinda pricey.
Any suggestions for other low-toxicity greases and/or oils, at lower cost?
Thanks and good health, Weogo
I have always used Mobil 28 or SHC 100 in my bicycle bearings.
Phillips omniguard is what I would dye and re-sell as a low toxicity bicycle grease. Calcium sulfonate with a borate ester.
Whatever grease that I happen to have around the house.
Wheel bearing grease for cars is often lithium based, but a bicycle is likely better served with a calcium sulfonate grease. water resistance, EP properties and friction reduction.
make some speed calculations (rpm vs diameter) to see what base oil viscosities are appropriate
Cornucopia of good choices out there, almost hard to pick a BAD bicycle grease. I've found great success using automotive bearing grease but stay away from moly- just not needed and messy. I like Super-Lube synthetic grease. If you want to go bike specific I see now reason to look further than Phil Wood.
Honestly, I just wish NLGI #1 greases were easier to source. I'd use that super-lube in a #1 for all types of stuff. Maybe even experiment with a #0 for some things/.
Honestly, I just wish NLGI #1 greases were easier to source. I'd use that super-lube in a #1 for all types of stuff. Maybe even experiment with a #0 for some things/.
Kestas
Staff member
Look for food-grade greases... greases that are appropriate to use in food production equipment.
Also, because bicycle bearings are not sealed and open to the elements, using a calcium-based grease (as suggested by many) is a good first choice
This is only partially true. Most of the bearings in modern bikes are sealed cartridges. Those seals work pretty well, I've seen bearings having thousands of miles with no contamination. But of course the seals aren't perfect and the bearings can get contaminated. You can use a fine pick to pop off the seals without damaging them, clean and inspect the bearings, regrease them, and pop the seals back on. If you do this servicing prophylactically before the bearings get rough, and use higher quality than the OEM grease, you can greatly extend the life of the bearings. If the bearings are press-fit, you can do this servicing without removing the bearing, or you can remove it by pressing it out instead of whacking it out (which pits the bearings, making them unserviceable).
Some argue that even pressing out a bearing can damage it due to side loads it wasn't designed for - different opinions on that topic. I like the common sense approach of basing this on actual condition. That is, after you've serviced the bearing and press it back into place, if it rotates smoothly under load then it's good to go. Others say that even good bearings are so inexpensive, why risk it? Just buy new ones. Either way, your choice.
Some applications on bikes still use the older cone & ball type bearings. These aren't sealed, but usually have some kind of less effective protection against contamination, like a rubber flap or o-ring. A Calcium or Aluminum based grease is ideal here to mitigate the risk of water intrusion and corrosion.
