Battery recommendations

We are talking about applying a 25 amp load and then waiting an hour or two for the battery to fall to 10.5 vts at 80F. That is basically completely discharging the battery. Assuming I had a 25 amp load source, that is not something you can do to a starting battery with any regularity as it will shorten its life considerably. I don't know of anyone (even experienced shop technicians) that check or confirm reserve capacity of a battery. Have you ever performed this test? And you cannot trust the rating stamped on the battery. Just look at the Consumer Reports ratings on reserve capacity and you will see many batteries don't meet their specification, just as they don't for CCA. At least with CCA we have a simple and quick test to verify, that is non invasive to the battery.


I believe we all have various priorities and considerations in a battery purchase. Warranty is a big consideration now that Costco has made theirs so weak. Especially with WalMart and Sam's offering four year free replacement on AGMs. I look at warranty, chemistry/construction (prefer AGM), Consumer Reports ratings, store convenience, etc.

I'm not in agreement with you that people exclusively look at CCA in a purchasing decision. Especially BITOG users. People do consider it, as it is one way to easily compare one battery from another, and can be quickly (and inexpensively) tested and verified when new, and throughout its life.


Reserve capacity is typically in line with CCA to a small degree…. Those track together… Higher CCA equals more RC…

More important in my opinion is weight for the BCI size…

A group 24 F battery can weigh as little as 37 pounds…. Or has much as 58 pounds… Exact same size battery case.,

Which one do you think is the better made battery ?


Now that is a bigger indicator of quality than either CCA or RC.
 
Reserve capacity is typically in line with CCA to a small degree…. Those track together… Higher CCA equals more RC…

More important in my opinion is weight for the BCI size…

A group 24 F battery can weigh as little as 37 pounds…. Or has much as 58 pounds… Exact same size battery case. ...

A lead-acid battery can sacrifice RC for CCA and vice versa within the same BCI. More/less metal / surface area, vs more/less acid.

Weight per BCI is definitely an indicator of more metal but not necessarily more CCA.

I'd rather have stronger plates in my battery than more (peak) CCA.
 
For basic flooded cell batteries I'm sold on Walmart . Price is better than anyone around me and the 3 yr replacement warrant couldn't be any easier .
 
  • Like
Reactions: hrv
the 3 yr replacement warrant couldn't be any easier .
That's good.
Does this warranty ease apply to Walmart Service Centers AND the return counter inside the store?

edit: The next time I'm in my Walmart (no auto service), I'll ask at Customer Service.
 
Last edited:
That's good.
Does this warranty ease apply to Walmart Service Centers AND the return counter inside the store?
My experience has been with the Automotive service counter person . They have a battery test rig on the counter that they use to verify Good/Bad .
 
Wow...7 years. My take...any battery is fine. Seriously. Having said this, I don't understand the strategy of getting every ounce out of a battery to save $$. Yes, you can test it periodically, but I've had experience doing that and having it fail within 6 months! My 2 cents....Replace the battery every 3 years for peace of mind. $250 (AGM) spread over 3 years is peanuts.
That's the conundrum... if you could somehow maintain your battery by occasionally charging, adding water, etc to work better for longer would you trust it once you're in uncharted territory years-wise?
 
That's good.
Does this warranty ease apply to Walmart Service Centers AND the return counter inside the store?

edit: The next time I'm in my Walmart (no auto service), I'll ask at Customer Service.
Either will work....
 
Reserve capacity is typically in line with CCA to a small degree…. Those track together… Higher CCA equals more RC…

More important in my opinion is weight for the BCI size…

A group 24 F battery can weigh as little as 37 pounds…. Or has much as 58 pounds… Exact same size battery case.,

Which one do you think is the better made battery ?


Now that is a bigger indicator of quality than either CCA or RC.
I recall reading on one battery manufacturer website that one can pack more plates in a battery for higher capacity, but there is a potential pit fall to the strategy. The plates are physically closer to each other, and can be more susceptible to shorting out from sulphation. Its always a balance of properties.
 
Our local shop, who is the only one to touch our vehicles, recommends Interstate batteries. We therefore use those and are very pleased so far, ~ twenty years in with them so far. Good luck with your decisions.
 
Wow...7 years. My take...any battery is fine. Seriously. Having said this, I don't understand the strategy of getting every ounce out of a battery to save $$. Yes, you can test it periodically, but I've had experience doing that and having it fail within 6 months! My 2 cents....Replace the battery every 3 years for peace of mind. $250 (AGM) spread over 3 years is peanuts.
I think all of our experiences vary. I have never had a battery fail within a 6 month interval of checking. And I have had two East Penn flooded batteries lose capacity and not hold a charge in under two years (on a daily driver). So three years would not be a comfortable interval for me without periodic checks. And if I'm checking anyway, why change at 3 years?

I think we all find a standard that works for us. That is the beauty of these forums is the information exchange and sharing of experiences.
 
Our local shop, who is the only one to touch our vehicles, recommends Interstate batteries. We therefore use those and are very pleased so far, ~ twenty years in with them so far. Good luck with your decisions.
Nothing at all wrong with Interstate. But the reason most independent shops carry Interstate is they have a huge distribution network and like the "milk man" from decades ago, they regularly stop by and restock the shop, rotate stock and will make emergency deliveries if needed. Also the best part is the batteries are on "consignment" so they don't have to pay for them until sold. Its free inventory on the display rack...which Interstate also provides at no charge.

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/dealers/become-a-dealer
 
I’ve had good success with Walmart Everstsart maxx line. Around the 5-6 year mark i just buy a new one. Could maybe go longer but im ok with how I do it
 
  • Like
Reactions: hrv
On a positive note, start/stop will let you know if the battery is healthy.
It will not turn the engine off if it is not properly charged.

My old battery would pass resistive testing, start the truck every time... but no start/stop.
It was 6.5 yrs old.
Put a new fully charged battery in and start/stop was back to normal.
 
Wow...7 years. My take...any battery is fine. Seriously. Having said this, I don't understand the strategy of getting every ounce out of a battery to save $$. Yes, you can test it periodically, but I've had experience doing that and having it fail within 6 months! My 2 cents....Replace the battery every 3 years for peace of mind. $250 (AGM) spread over 3 years is peanuts.
Walmart AGM @$179 with 4 year warranty even better. This one made in Germany (Johnson Controls/Varta?)

IMG_1536.jpeg
 
Last edited:
A lead-acid battery can sacrifice RC for CCA and vice versa within the same BCI. More/less metal / surface area, vs more/less acid.

Weight per BCI is definitely an indicator of more metal but not necessarily more CCA.

I'd rather have stronger plates in my battery than more (peak) CCA.

“ Weight per BCi is definitely an indicator of more metal but not necessarily more CCA” …



To be fair that group 24 F that weighs 57 pounds is a Thin Plate Pure Lead AGM…

This is a whole different animal vs a regular flooded battery. That must be said here.

37 pound group 24 F has 550 CCA and 95 minutes of reserve capacity.

Which for the record I had a Group 24 F battery in my Nissan that was 37 pounds and was a very good battery. I was not interested in paying $325 for a 57 pound TPPL AGM.

That 57 pound TPPL AGM battery has 840 CCA…
And 160 minutes of reserve capacity…


There is not a single group 24 size battery that weighs less than that 57 pound one and yet somehow has more CCA and Reserve capacity…

Now again this is a TPPL AGM not a regular flooded battery to be fair.
 
Last edited:
I recall reading on one battery manufacturer website that one can pack more plates in a battery for higher capacity, but there is a potential pit fall to the strategy. The plates are physically closer to each other, and can be more susceptible to shorting out from sulphation. Its always a balance of properties.


To be fair I am taking about a Thin Plate Pure Lead AGM battery….


Those batteries only self discharge 0.1 percent per month…

Other regular flooded lead acid batteries can self discharge 5-12 percent per month….

Even other regular AGM batteries self discharge 1-3 percent per month…

That’s a massive difference right there.

There’s a HUGE difference in quality in the lead in them vs regular batteries.

This why there was a 5 year free replacement warranty they Batteries Plus for their X-2 TPPL batteries.

Now it is a 4 year free replacement warranty…

The real quote unquote downside is actually… Those batteries do much better with being truly deep discharge and regular true recharging up to accepting only 0.5 amps per 100 amp hours of rated amp hours. That’s the real disadvantage to them. Those batteries don’t handle slow trickle charges well and need much higher amperage to recharge them if they get discharged a fair amount. Those TPPL batteries even say they can easily accept 40 amps when first hooked up to a charging source capable of giving that much to them. Of course it does say to do this and ramp down the amperage and voltage after 15 to 20 minutes or so after starting that high.

We had a member on here get 1.200 deep discharges and recharges on one these Thin Plate Pure Lead batteries… That battery he used for the starter battery in his Jeep too. He had that battery for almost 7 years as well.
 
Last edited:
Wow! many thanks for everyone's advice and sharing of experience. I'm leaning towards the WM Everstart Platinum.
 
I think it’s time for me to change my battery in BMW, which is original in the car 😂. Built date of the car: 04/2010.
 
Walmart--the last time I did a warranty return on a WM battery, I wasn't exactly sure if it was completely bad or not (I forget the issue) but I remember I was working night shift and went to WM very early before the auto service dept opened. Like 5 or 6 am. So I just grabbed a new battery and took it and my old one to a regular checkout. The Woman looked at my old receipt and said OK. So, no test or BS.
 
Nothing at all wrong with Interstate. But the reason most independent shops carry Interstate is they have a huge distribution network and like the "milk man" from decades ago, they regularly stop by and restock the shop, rotate stock and will make emergency deliveries if needed. Also the best part is the batteries are on "consignment" so they don't have to pay for them until sold. Its free inventory on the display rack...which Interstate also provides at no charge.

https://www.interstatebatteries.com/dealers/become-a-dealer

All Interstate is is a label and a distribution network.
They just buy batteries from a plethora of vendors and market them.
Nothing necessarily wrong with that, but they have never manufactured battery #1.
 
Back
Top Bottom