battery on its way out?

There is also a shorter term issue with storing the battery on concrete. Storing it on concrete allows heat conduction into the cold concrete. Storing on a wood plank provides insulation slowing the temperature drop. Eventually, however the battery will cool down to the temperature of the ground and/ or the ambient air. However, it the air warms up for a few days, the battery can warm up and the process is repeated. A wooden plank just slows the rate of temperature drop.
 
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I thought heat kills batteries so keeping them on cold concrete would boost lifetime?
 
Hah if i can limp it to warmer weather then the solar panel will kick it up a notch and i will be seeing 13v+ every time i get in the car. Lol.

I vs seen charts that say 12.7v is full charge battery and 12.4v is 50 percent charge. I thought a charged battery would sit for a month atleast at 12.7v?
So, there's 2 things to keep in mind when it comes to batteries.
State of Health and state of charge. They are not the same. I lumped them together in my previous comment.

A new battery (perfect state of health) and fully charged will be at 12.7V.
With time and use the max voltage it can hold will deteriorate as cells physically degrade.
So, 12.4V likely represents your max voltage for 100% state of charge (for whatever temperature it was checked at).
 
When a battery sits untouched, the densest electrolyte sinks to the bottom. This stronger sulfuric acid can chew up the bottoms of the plates more.

Some RV converter/chargers, when in their 'float/maintenance/storage mode, of ~13.2 volts, will bump voltage back to 14.4v, every 16 or 18 hours for about 15 minutes, in order to cause gassing, which Destratifies the electrolyte.

They call this a 4th stage of charging, and also erroneously call it 'equalization'.

Marketing BS

True EQ charges are an intentional overcharge with the charging source holding voltages as high as 16.2v, initiated ONLY after a regular 'full' charge, to get the electrolye in all 6 cells of a 12v battery to within 0.015 of each other, or better, and to maximize the specific gravity.

EQ charges are beneficial on deep cycling batteries. Starting batteries, the jury is out, but they likely stand the best chance of returning a sulfated battery to its maximum remaining potential.

Eq charges are abusive. the duration held at high voltages needs to be minimized, the battery watched closely for overheating, a hydrometer used to determine when electrolyte density, stops rising at which point the charging should be terminated immediately.

A battery on a cold concrete floor can accentuate stratification, but discharging the battery the concrete floor...it does not, and has not since battery cases were made of asphalt. back in the 1930's era.
 
Iv noticed in my battery size agm is not available but another type called EFB is. Whats a efb battery and is it worth the extra?
 
The Enhansed flooded battery, acccording to the marketing, uses some carbon in the plate paste and helps prevent sulfation in partial state of charge usages.

PSOC usage is very hard on batteries.

I've no experinece with EFB, and not read too much about them.

The marine guys, who do not want to upgrade to Lifepo4 for their house battery banks, are largely raving about a 'carbon Foam' AGM called firefly.

These are said to be able to be cycled and left at a partial state of charge for extended periods without damage, but to return them to full capacity after such treatment requires a high amp charger than can hold and maintian high voltages until amps taper to low levels.

They are about 500$ for a group 31, and only come in limited sizes.

Apparently the patented firefly carbon technology is different than the EFB's and other Batteries that claim to use carbon in the plate paste to better tolerate PSOC operation.

Since modern vehicles are harder on batteries, than yesteryear, and are coming closer and closer to actual deep cycling of them, the PSOC resistance quest, is a good thing all around.

I've no personal experience cycling lead acid batteries with carbon incorporated into plate paste.

If interested here is some of firefly's marketing:


I'm not suggesting the average joe needs a 500$ firefly in their daily driver just that it would be nice if the tech dribbles down to the automotive starting battery world, and prices become tolerable in time. I think the EFB is a start in that direction
and hope it proves true.

When AGMS were first marketed, they were claimed to be the salvation to sulfation.
So take it all with a grain of salt, as AGMs in the ~ 40 years since, have proven less tolerant overall of PSOC operation when never receiving a true full charge, than flooded.
 
Iv noticed some cars have a battery bag which the battery sits in. Im guessing its to keep battery warm or shield it from engine heat? Whats its main purpose and is it worth investing in one?
 
Iv noticed some cars have a battery bag which the battery sits in. Im guessing its to keep battery warm or shield it from engine heat? Whats its main purpose and is it worth investing in one?
I am not sure how much the insulation helps with either keeping the battery warm or shield it from heat. Insulation of any type just slows down the transfer of hot or cold. If the battery has no method to generate heat or cold it will eventually get to the temp of the surrounding areas.

Insulation in a house works because you have a furnace or A/C inside the house.
 
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Hah if i can limp it to warmer weather then the solar panel will kick it up a notch and i will be seeing 13v+ every time i get in the car. Lol.

I vs seen charts that say 12.7v is full charge battery and 12.4v is 50 percent charge. I thought a charged battery would sit for a month atleast at 12.7v?
An automotive battery has 6 cells that should read 2.11 volts each, when fully charged. 12.66V is a fully charged battery. Anything over that is overcharged and will not be maintained. Batteries of 12.4V should still be sufficient to start the vehicle at freezing, if less than 3 years old. .
 
An automotive battery has 6 cells that should read 2.11 volts each, when fully charged. 12.66V is a fully charged battery. Anything over that is overcharged and will not be maintained. Batteries of 12.4V should still be sufficient to start the vehicle at freezing, if less than 3 years old. .
This is not universally true. Each battery manufacturer is going to do things a little different with different tolerances.
But yes anything over a certain maximum will not be maintained.
 
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