Battery life
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Originally Posted By: ekpolk
I have purchased several new GM vehicles over the years. Now, the last one was a 1998 model (the first being a 1983), but on none of them did the OEM factory battery make it past two years. Only a few data points, but still...
Odd the battery in my 02 sierra just got replaced last year, the battery in my silverado is still oem 2005 model, and the battery in my 94 pontiac lasted 7 years.
I have purchased several new GM vehicles over the years. Now, the last one was a 1998 model (the first being a 1983), but on none of them did the OEM factory battery make it past two years. Only a few data points, but still...
Odd the battery in my 02 sierra just got replaced last year, the battery in my silverado is still oem 2005 model, and the battery in my 94 pontiac lasted 7 years.
most of my life i had a garage close to cars so a no start wasnt a big trouble. but now iam in an apartment i cant afford a no start. so i had my shop replace the battery and starter. my plan is to replace the battery every two years and the starter every 4 years. hopefully this will keep me out of trouble. what think?
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Does anybody have that chart illustrating expected battery life in different parts of the US?
Not sure, but interestingly, many battery manufacturers in North America sell 2 types of batteries for the north american market - a "north" and a "south". Batteries are built differently to cope with the demands of heat compared to the demands of cold. The ones for "north" are built for cold and the ones for "south" are built for heat. If you check sears' site re: die hard batteries, you'll see that they do this IIRC.
Does anybody have that chart illustrating expected battery life in different parts of the US?
Not sure, but interestingly, many battery manufacturers in North America sell 2 types of batteries for the north american market - a "north" and a "south". Batteries are built differently to cope with the demands of heat compared to the demands of cold. The ones for "north" are built for cold and the ones for "south" are built for heat. If you check sears' site re: die hard batteries, you'll see that they do this IIRC.
I'm almost certain that the Jetta has an original battery. My father in law had pretty much every paper work on the car minus battery paper work. He doesn't remember it ever being changed. On the hold down bolts VW put some coating that looks like it never been broken. I'll be interested when I do change it out.
Originally Posted By: Jim 5
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Does anybody have that chart illustrating expected battery life in different parts of the US?
Not sure, but interestingly, many battery manufacturers in North America sell 2 types of batteries for the north american market - a "north" and a "south". Batteries are built differently to cope with the demands of heat compared to the demands of cold. The ones for "north" are built for cold and the ones for "south" are built for heat. If you check sears' site re: die hard batteries, you'll see that they do this IIRC.
I remember not so long ago, someone posted a chart where the expected battery life in the south was a maximum of 3 years, whereas it went all the way up to 7 years (IIRC) up north.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Does anybody have that chart illustrating expected battery life in different parts of the US?
Not sure, but interestingly, many battery manufacturers in North America sell 2 types of batteries for the north american market - a "north" and a "south". Batteries are built differently to cope with the demands of heat compared to the demands of cold. The ones for "north" are built for cold and the ones for "south" are built for heat. If you check sears' site re: die hard batteries, you'll see that they do this IIRC.
I remember not so long ago, someone posted a chart where the expected battery life in the south was a maximum of 3 years, whereas it went all the way up to 7 years (IIRC) up north.
Batteries destined for warmer climes are filled with a slightly more dilute acid, the ones for colder climes get a more concentrated acid. We are not talking much difference here, 1.26 vs 1.28 SG.
This has to do with chemical reactions speeding up with heat.
This has to do with chemical reactions speeding up with heat.
Am I correct in the assumption that starting the vehicle with as little electrical load as possible (i.e. no external lighting on, no A/C or blower motor running) leaves more current available for the starter motor and thus less load on the battery over time when starting, resulting in potentially longer battery life in addition to easier starts? I also turn the ignition to the "ON" position to prime the fuel pump and power the sensors, gauges, etc. before starting the vehicle to lower the "surge" of everything powering on at once even more. Probably this latter practice is negligible in the bigger picture in terms of battery life as all of those don't draw as much power as headlights and maybe the A/C compressor/blower motor.
Originally Posted By: Towncivilian
Am I correct in the assumption that starting the vehicle with as little electrical load as possible (i.e. no external lighting on, no A/C or blower motor running) leaves more current available for the starter motor and thus less load on the battery over time when starting, resulting in potentially longer battery life in addition to easier starts?
With most cars when you turn the key to START most everything else besides the starter and necessary engine electrical is being bypassed. Notice that when you turn the key to start if the headlights are on they go off and the instrument warning lights and every thing goes off until you release the key to run.
Am I correct in the assumption that starting the vehicle with as little electrical load as possible (i.e. no external lighting on, no A/C or blower motor running) leaves more current available for the starter motor and thus less load on the battery over time when starting, resulting in potentially longer battery life in addition to easier starts?
With most cars when you turn the key to START most everything else besides the starter and necessary engine electrical is being bypassed. Notice that when you turn the key to start if the headlights are on they go off and the instrument warning lights and every thing goes off until you release the key to run.
I've seen headlights dim when watching others start their cars. I always thought they dimmed due to the temporary drop in voltage, not because they turned off for the duration of starting (which may appear like dimming). I think you're correct about everything shutting off though, as I notice devices powered from ACC (with engine off) do shut off when the vehicle is being started, and then are powered once the engine starts. I'll have to see how my headlights behave if I try to start the car with them on I guess.
You're right head lights was a bad example on my part as they are not ran through the ignition switch circuit or always controlled by a body control module. But like you've noticed most electric loads are switched off by the ignition switch.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Does anybody have that chart illustrating expected battery life in different parts of the US?
I remember not so long ago, someone posted a chart where the expected battery life in the south was a maximum of 3 years, whereas it went all the way up to 7 years (IIRC) up north.
There was a better one a few years ago but I can't find it now:
I sure don't get 41 months out of my batteries. I don't even get 30 months
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Does anybody have that chart illustrating expected battery life in different parts of the US?
I remember not so long ago, someone posted a chart where the expected battery life in the south was a maximum of 3 years, whereas it went all the way up to 7 years (IIRC) up north.
There was a better one a few years ago but I can't find it now:
I sure don't get 41 months out of my batteries. I don't even get 30 months
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