Battery dead on kubota L2501

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Nov 29, 2009
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She's dead dead at 10.3v it's been a couple weeks since I've started it, but never had this I issue. I hear a weird rattling noise when I turn the key on without trying to start. Typically I hear a solenoid make a loud click when I turn the key on, but it doesn't do that. It's a 2022 model, so not that old imo.is that rattle the starter solenoid? Not even the Hobbs hour meter is turning on when the key is on.
 
Do you have a parasitic draw coming from somewhere? How old is the battery, and have you checked the electrolyte or water level?
 
Do you have a parasitic draw coming from somewhere? How old is the battery, and have you checked the electrolyte or water level?
Well, now that I think about it the battery is 4 years old now. Guess it's just time for a new one. It's a sealed battery. This thing has the little eye that's green when it'd okay and black when dead and white when it says replace. It's black now....
 
The engine has a solenoid that holds the fuel rack open. When you shut off the key switch, a spring closes the rack. So it needs 12v to hold the solenoid to overcome the spring. What you're probably hearing is the solenoid attempting to open the fuel rack, but it's losing enough volts to fully achieve the task.

It's likely that a new battery will solve this issue.
 
The engine has a solenoid that holds the fuel rack open. When you shut off the key switch, a spring closes the rack. So it needs 12v to hold the solenoid to overcome the spring. What you're probably hearing is the solenoid attempting to open the fuel rack, but it's losing enough volts to fully achieve the task.

It's likely that a new battery will solve this issue.
I hope that didn't mess up that solenoid. It's probably my 3rd function valve that killed the battery. I didn't bother wiring it up to a key on 12v ignition source
 
The solenoid will most likely be just fine.

Yeah - it's possible that if the 3rd function valve is hot at all times, that's pulling down the battery via parasitic draw. Without seeing how it was wired and the control circuitry I can't say for sure. But it's not a bad idea to run any accessory off a switched relay.
 
The solenoid will most likely be just fine.

Yeah - it's possible that if the 3rd function valve is hot at all times, that's pulling down the battery via parasitic draw. Without seeing how it was wired and the control circuitry I can't say for sure. But it's not a bad idea to run any accessory off a switched relay.
I wired it straight to the battery. To be honest I've never seen a battery measure 10.3v before so that's probably it. I've never had a battery just be totally dead either without atleast some warning for a little while beforehand (slow cranks etc)
 
Try charging the battery first. Most likely you need to replace it. Stuff wired directly to the battery needs to be fully shut down when not in use.
 
Try charging the battery first. Most likely you need to replace it. Stuff wired directly to the battery needs to be fully shut down when not in use.
Well I just installed the 3rd function around the beginning of the year. It's been about 3 weeks since I used it last
 
Have you tried disconnecting the 3rd function wire from the battery and measuring again. It wont restore the battery but if you see the voltage starting to creep up with the wire off it means that ckt is putting a small load on the battery. Thats not good for any vehicle but its extra bad on a unit that only gets started every couple weeks. Try putting it on a charger and see if you can bring it back up, it may not come back to 100% but will probably be fine in warm weather. But you are going to have to get everything on a switched circuit.
 
Have you tried disconnecting the 3rd function wire from the battery and measuring again. It wont restore the battery but if you see the voltage starting to creep up with the wire off it means that ckt is putting a small load on the battery. Thats not good for any vehicle but its extra bad on a unit that only gets started every couple weeks. Try putting it on a charger and see if you can bring it back up, it may not come back to 100% but will probably be fine in warm weather. But you are going to have to get everything on a switched circuit.
I don't think it's enough of a load to see an immediate difference. I could try with it disconnected for a week, then see if there is any drop by connecting it a week later and seeing what it does for a week connected
 
Definitely get the 3rd function wired to the key-on power source.

But also, the Kubota batteries aren't great. My L2501 is bit older (2017), but the second winter my battery didn't have the power to heat the glow plugs and crank the engine. I could do one or the other, not both. In 10 degree weather, the engine won't start without both. Bought an Interstate with twice the CCA and never had a problem since.
 
Definitely get the 3rd function wired to the key-on power source.

But also, the Kubota batteries aren't great. My L2501 is bit older (2017), but the second winter my battery didn't have the power to heat the glow plugs and crank the engine. I could do one or the other, not both. In 10 degree weather, the engine won't start without both. Bought an Interstate with twice the CCA and never had a problem since.
They put a small battery in it from the factory. Every replacement group 24 i find is at least 750amps and like 600cca. The only key on power is know of.ks the 10 amp plug by the rear fender. There might be more. But I don't want to cut into the factory wiring. I also plugged in my Hobbs hour meter becaise the mechanical hour meter on the tractor shows less hours than actual. Even less the lower the rpm. If you let it idle for an hour it only shows like 30 minutes and even at full throttle its only like 2/3rds of an hour. My Hobbs meter shows like 100 more hours than what the dash shows.
 
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