Battery care on a short tripper?

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Both my vehicles are short tripped plus I alternate driving them so they can sit for a few days a week. Plus the truck sits more in the summer than the car and vice versa in the winter. I put my CTEK on at least twice a year and am having good luck with my batteries. I just sold a car I owned for over 6 years that had an Interstate battery in it when I bought it and the same battery in it when I sold it and was working just fine. My truck has a AAP AGM that's been in it for right at 3 years and showing no signs of weakness.

I think option one but every two or three weeks may be over kill with a good charger.
 
Now that I have a garage (and a DC power supply), it's much easier for me to monitor every stage of charging, from the initial constant current stage to the constant voltage stage to completion. Even doing this the battery is usually at only 80% or so charged, because of my wife's driving routine.

When I lived in a condo, I had to perform you OP's number 1. every few weeks to a month. Our assigned parking spot was luckily right in front of our front porch, but I still had to run an extension cord through the cracked-open storm door, which was annoying, especially when it was really hot or cold outside. To be honest, I would usually perform my charging routine earlier or later, based on temperature. If we had two weeks of intermittent 10F or below, I'd wait an extra week or so, maybe up to two months between charges. MORE often, I'd find a decent day before it started and short-cycle my routine (e.g., 8 days, 15 days, etc. after the last charge cycle).

This seemed to work really well for us. The Forester in our signature is still going strong after 5+ years on the same battery (it didn't sit long at the dealer, so I'll only assume a little over 5 total years on the battery), with my wife being the main driver. She likes it toasty (e.g., running the heater and seat warmers as soon as she hops in) and routinely drives locally, so not so good for the battery.

Originally Posted by eljefino
Originally Posted by Quattro Pete
Down to what temp is it still OK to charge a lead acid battery? I've read somewhere -4F is the low limit.



You don't want to charge a frozen battery but they get frozen by being discharged! I know of no lower limit and a little current can only be good for it!

The solar panel chargers have diodes so they only do good. The rear tint's an issue but I guess you could use it on the windshield, then put it on the passenger floorboard when driving.


I would worry about one of those diodes failing or even bleeding through when light isn't strong enough, resulting in the circuitry draining the battery instead of charging it. The only way to be sure would be to perform a diode check every once in a while (I would do it weekly, just because), to ensure the charging circuit is doing its thing.

I guess what I'm asking is, are these things really any good at a reasonable price? My biggest concern would be cooking the circuitry over many hot days, if it's built into the panel itself. i.e., I can't imagine these things lasting more than a season, if they're your basic chinese special.

I'd rather just run an extension cord and charge the battery weekly than have to worry about it, which I would most certainly do, even if I checked up on the circuit using a DMM every so often. Then, you'd be out the money for the panel and, potentially, for the cost of a new battery!
 
Originally Posted by Smokescreen

You can boil a battery dry even with 2A if left on continually with most non-intelligent chargers, even if it has a trickle charge function. I know because I have done it, even with Better Tender brand.
My dad did that with a solar panel and no charge controller. I told him not to do it and he laughed at me, then I saw something I had previously never seen: the cells leaking fluid and I knew he had boiled it. It was a small panel, maybe 18 x 4.

I have considered the parcel shelf solar panel a few times myself, wired into a 12v socket in my trunk. My car rarely goes inside so I thought it would be an intriguing idea, and those small solar panel/charge controller combos seem to go on sale all the time.
 
Originally Posted by Wolf359
Get a meter and check the voltage. When it gets low, hook up the battery charger. You can somewhat extrapolate from this stage of charge chart, the lower the temperature, the lower the voltage will be. Also even at 70 you won't get 12.7 because that's the no load voltage and with the battery hooked up, there's a load on it.

https://modernsurvivalblog.com/alternative-energy/battery-state-of-charge-chart/

It's 12.29V right now, but I charged it this past weekend. 30F outside.
 
You could be a slave to a battery but a decent battery should have a 5 year warranty which is what you already reported you were getting previously.

It's probably pro-rated after ~3 years, but of course it should be, it's not like a battery manufacturer likes to keep giving away free batteries.

Otherwise you already know the options. Continuous solar panel use, leaving a trickle charger on it practically always, or frequent hookups of a higher powered charger for a shorter period of time each charge. Last option is leave it idling before each trip so it warms up for passenger comfort and helps cook off piston blow by water in the oil too. It'll burn some gas, and leaving an idling vehicle unattended is illegal in some areas, but it'll also warm the battery more from ambient engine heat than driving it (producing cold air flow into the engine bay, which can be mitigated some with a battery blanket if you don't want to let it idle ahead of time) so it will charge faster while driving.
 
Originally Posted by philipp10
Unless you have checked the voltage multiple times how do you know you have a problem?

It was 11.6V before I charged it this weekend.
 
Originally Posted by Dave9
, but it'll also warm the battery more from ambient engine heat than driving it (producing cold air flow into the engine bay, which can be mitigated some with a battery blanket if you don't want to let it idle ahead of time) so it will charge faster while driving.

The battery is in the trunk.
 
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
As long as it doesn't go below 12 V, just drive it to to the Walmart once in awhile to go look at oil. You'll be fine.


No! No!! No!!!

Originally Posted by Quattro Pete
Originally Posted by philipp10
Unless you have checked the voltage multiple times how do you know you have a problem?

It was 11.6V before I charged it this weekend.


That's too low. One and/or all of the following is/are true:

1. There's no way you charge every two weeks (or even monthly) if this is what you noted

2. You need to find the source of your excessive parasitic drain

3. You will need a new battery soon
 
Originally Posted by gathermewool
That's too low. One and/or all of the following is/are true:

1. There's no way you charge every two weeks (or even monthly) if this is what you noted

I did not say that I charge it every two weeks. I asked if I should be charging every two weeks.


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2. You need to find the source of your excessive parasitic drain
There is no excessive parasitic drain, but sometimes I wonder if my alternator is doing a good job actually charging the battery when the car is running.

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3. You will need a new battery soon
No question about that. This battery is 5 and a half years old and likely on its last legs.

Look, all I'm asking is this: should I just accept this kind of battery life, or should I take some measures (such as frequent charging) that will result in my next battery lasting much longer? If it's not going to last much longer anyway, then what's the point?
 
5 and a half years out of a battery is pretty good. Change it and the new one will probably outlive the car at this point.
 
The Walmart AGM battery is from East Penn in my area.... And likely a quite close to a Deka Intimidator battery. A solid or pretty good AGM.

Not on level with say Northstar or X-2, or Odyssey or Lifeline... Those are $270+ batteries.
 
Another possibility... A Pep Boys Champion AGM... Johnson Controls battery with 48 month free replacement warranty... With online coupon... I've seen prices as low as $135...
 
Originally Posted by Quattro Pete
Originally Posted by gathermewool
That's too low. One and/or all of the following is/are true:

1. There's no way you charge every two weeks (or even monthly) if this is what you noted

I did not say that I charge it every two weeks. I asked if I should be charging every two weeks.


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2. You need to find the source of your excessive parasitic drain
There is no excessive parasitic drain, but sometimes I wonder if my alternator is doing a good job actually charging the battery when the car is running.

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3. You will need a new battery soon
No question about that. This battery is 5 and a half years old and likely on its last legs.

Look, all I'm asking is this: should I just accept this kind of battery life, or should I take some measures (such as frequent charging) that will result in my next battery lasting much longer? If it's not going to last much longer anyway, then what's the point?


You didn't mention the year of the car. BMW got pretty bad at their charging algorithm a few years ago and kills lots of batteries by not giving it a full charge.

I'm up to 11 years on my Mercedes AGM battery, still OEM. They trigger a low battery condition when the voltage drops below 11. You're probably fine where you're at now. The only real way to tell is to get it load tested. You can buy a cheap basic load tester on Amazon, but if you're not doing it frequently, you could just go to a local auto parts store like Autozone or Advance Auto and have them check the battery where they do a load test on it for free. Do that after the battery is fully charged. Basically it times it to see how long it takes the battery to recover after putting a load on it. Last year I remember my battery was at 11.5-11.6 in the winter, been like that for the last couple of years. Lots of other posters on here don't seem to realize what a no load condition is and that the voltage of a cold battery is going to be lower than one at 70 degrees. Every time I mention it, people tell me to get a new battery, then I tell them I'm an electrical engineer.
 
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There ya go wolf... Temp dropping changes the voltage quite a bit
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Originally Posted by Quattro Pete
Since the car sits outside, I have to run an extension cord to connect up a charger. I don't envision doing it every night, but doing it every couple of weeks is no problem at all - that was option (1) in my original post. I was just asking if that was the correct option for me.

I think that's the option that makes the most sense.
 
Originally Posted by jeepman3071
My friend has an e46 330i ZHP he now rarely drives except on nice days. He keeps a smart tender on it when he is not driving it and it has worked very well so far.

I'm not sure I can recommend those things anymore - I've had two batteries die while attached to them. One was an actual Battery Tender, the other was a Harbor Freight knock off. I've had good luck with the Battery Minder I use for the deep cycle battery on my trailer, but that's the only one I would use anymore.
 
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