Some of the brass barbed hose end connectors I have seen have more barbs than others. Some have barbs that are more raised than others and some have barbs that seem to be sharper on their peaks. Are any of these characteristics important when choosing these connectors for a bypass filter?
Barbed hose end connectors
- Thread starter trynew
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Some have a more aggressive stepped ridge (ie sharper) to them and will have a plastic collar against the shoulder. These are usually what is reffered to as "Push Lock Style" which simply means use a push lock type hose over the barbed end, no hose clamps/bands required. These types are usually marked as such so you don't get them mixed up with the more common style of barbed connector.
It will depend on your application as to what style or length of barb you require. I've used both types, (push-lok/common barb) but always chose to use the common type (non push-lok) with a hose clamp when using it in a high heat,pressure situation. That's just me, not saying the push-lok wouldn't do the job.
It will depend on your application as to what style or length of barb you require. I've used both types, (push-lok/common barb) but always chose to use the common type (non push-lok) with a hose clamp when using it in a high heat,pressure situation. That's just me, not saying the push-lok wouldn't do the job.
One connector I would like to use is one that has a 90 degree angle, but it only has 3 barbs compared to 4 for the straight one and is shorter than the straight one also, so I am uneasy that it won't hold as well or it might allow more side to side twisting of the hose that would shorten the hose's life.
I'm not certain of where in your bypass setup you are trying to use the 90° barbed fittings or what size of hose you are installing? Is it on the pressure side or return side? These could be determining factors as to what size or length of fitting you will have to use. Something you may want to consider and this may not pertain to your situation, is something like a 37° straight JIC swivel fitting to 90° elbow. They come in various sizes and are great for pressure/heat applications. The reason I mention this kind of fitting is that it allows you a lot more flexibility when it comes to installing or disassembling the unit if need be. In other words the hose line can be removed from the setup without having to cut or pull anything off the barbed ends, or dismantling the filter unit off a bracket. Anyways, just my 2 cents worth.
you need to use the barb style that is reccomended by the manuf. of the hose. aeroquip is going to give you a different barb fitting than parker or goodyear will spec a different one also. it all depends on the type and brand of hose.
I didn't use hose clamps on my last 2 installs and no leaks so far (KNOCK ON WOOD). When I sold my truck and removed my bypass filters I could not pull the hoses off the push lok style connectors no way no how, until I slit them with a razor knife. I got the hose and connectors from mcmaster.com.
The push lock fittings that don't require clamps normally have a plastic yellow hose end protector. Most people feel better installing a clamp. A little worm drive clamp works fine but all you need is to tighten it enough to keep the hose from expanding. The tube can be damaged if you tighten it too tight.
You have to watch some of the hardware store hose barbs. The hole thru the fitting can be too large and cause the barb to be too weak. You have to be careful especially with the 1/4" barbs. I am using all stainless steel hose clamps.
Ralph
You have to watch some of the hardware store hose barbs. The hole thru the fitting can be too large and cause the barb to be too weak. You have to be careful especially with the 1/4" barbs. I am using all stainless steel hose clamps.
Ralph
That makes a lot of sense to me too. I got some flack on the posting of my BP install when members were shocked I didn't use hose clamps. My barbs connectors was as you indicated, "Push-Lock), with the more agressive ridge. I think using a clamp on this type of connector is riksier because there is a chance the ridge cutting into the hose.
I had some extra connectors and hose from my BP installation so I tried pulling the push-lock off the hose but couldn't no matter how hard I tried (grabbing hose with one hand and pliers on the connector in the other).
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