Bar and chain oil

[gj]

I have a Sthil 029 16" bar.Is it ok to use my left over engine oil?I have a few half Qts. around thought I might put them to good use.I have about a pint of regular bar and chain oil left,looks like a non detergent oil to me.Thanks,George

 

[mazduh30]

Motor oil will flow too fast. You would be constantly be filling it up. Also you be doing damage to the enviroment using motor oil. Just my opinion.

 

[mazduh30]

Duh...didn't finish my 1st coffee. Chain oil is termed a "free-loss lube", meaning it is expected to end up in the enviroment. I work on power saws in lumber camps, and tried motor oil (nothing wrong with it for chain lube), but it seemed like I had to readjust the 066 oiler matching the fuel tank run out. Basically too much time/effort to reset the oilers and higher cost for motor oil. Bar oil is tacky and sticks to the bar. Motor oil sprays finer/mists so now an inhalation safety concern. Currently the camp is trying canola/rapeseed base oil for the bars...seems to be doing ok. Used motor oil won't destory your bar/chain. Just check the oil reservoir (adjust the oiler). Keep the chain sharp and flip your bar when you file the chain. Clean out the bar's oil holes and bar groove (use a hacksaw blade).

 

[lobo11]

My brother-in-law uses his used oil for this in an older 80's Stihl saw. My 2006 Husky specificly says not to use it, and based on viscosity difference alone I choose not to use it. I can find gallons of bar & chain oil on sale for $4-6, in my mind it is worth it to use what is specified, with older saws with manual oilers I doubt it would be as much of an issue. Just my opinion.

 

[Jim 5]

My understanding is that chain oil is characterized by the heavy use of tackifiers to make it stick to the bar and chain, rather than instantly flying off due to inertia of the chain.

Regular motor oil won't have the same properties since it is designed with a different use in mind. Also, as some have noted, there may be viscosity and environmental issues as well.

 

[H2GURU]

I've tried different oils on chain oiler with not so great results. Use the STHIL bar & chain oil as it appears to stick to the chain better. The added cost will pay for itself as saw will have more use-time due to fewer sharpenings. I read somewhere that bar $ chain oil is the same as 30W but they seem to add something that binds it to the chain to minimize thro-off?

 

[Jaymus]

I would stick with actual bar and chain oil. It's thick and it sticks much better. I just use the Crafstman kind since it's what came with my chainsaw, and I liked how it worked. Gave constant, smooth operation.

 

[TeeDub]

I've had extremely good results using the Amsoil, semi-synthetic bar and chain lube. It doesn't get waxy at low temps and the bar/chain runs nice and cool. The other thing I like is that it doesn't gum up the automatic oiler like the cheap stuff I used to use.

 

[mtgrs737]

I couldn't recomend using used motor oir for the reasons above, and it won't lube your expensive bar and chain properly. Even some of the private brands of oils labeled as "bar and chain oil" arn't very good to use due to poor quality. I recomend the majoy brands of bar and chain oil like Stihl, Echo or Husky brand as they have the right kind of additives to help your bar and chain run cooler and with less wear.

 

[lobo11]

I find Johnsered Bar & Chain oil to be very reasonable per gallon in my area, and the Husky B&C pretty reasonable at TSC stores around here as well. I imagine they use the same blender since they are virtually the same saw with the same parent company.

 

[badbrad358]

Why not use what is designed for your saw, Stihl Bar and chain lube? It costs about $8 for a gallon, that's not expensive and it does well with clinging to the parts as others have mentioned. Also it is designed to work with the sap and wood resin whereas motor oil is not.

Not to mention the environmental irresponsibility involved as others has mentioned.