- Joined
- Dec 7, 2012
- Messages
- 3,529
The vibration I had been experiencing within my steering wheel had once again returned. I had been ruling out suspension components as my mechanic/friend (when I don't feel like wrenching) assured me that all of my tie-rods, ball-joints, control arms, compliance bushings were good.
I thought, "I best examine this car myself". To my amazement, I was able to 'roll' my tie-rods back and forth with ease. There was no 'in and out' movement horizontally or vertically. I have had replacement tie-rods for a while that I bought cheap online. I decided to replace them.
https://youtu.be/B42hnqdoEFs
Above is a video of how they are.
Got an alignment and the car is way better, but still tracking down a small minor vibration. I will be inspecting my control arms/ball-joints today or tomorrow. Also have a metal on metal clunk. I am thinking either ball-joint or strut mount.
So I'm going to assume that any automotive ball and socket joint that does this, or moves freely without a tight greased feeling is failing or failed?
New tie-rods were tight and takes effort to move.
I thought, "I best examine this car myself". To my amazement, I was able to 'roll' my tie-rods back and forth with ease. There was no 'in and out' movement horizontally or vertically. I have had replacement tie-rods for a while that I bought cheap online. I decided to replace them.
https://youtu.be/B42hnqdoEFs
Above is a video of how they are.
Got an alignment and the car is way better, but still tracking down a small minor vibration. I will be inspecting my control arms/ball-joints today or tomorrow. Also have a metal on metal clunk. I am thinking either ball-joint or strut mount.
So I'm going to assume that any automotive ball and socket joint that does this, or moves freely without a tight greased feeling is failing or failed?
New tie-rods were tight and takes effort to move.
Last edited: