People always seem to check the charging system it idle.
When suspected of overcharging, testing at idle speed is the least likely time one will see the 14.4+ voltages which will cause aggressive bubbling and electrolyte loss.
If the battery had been discharged through stereo use or other methods, followed by a longer highway drive, the voltage regulator 'might' have allowed 14.XX long enough to cause aggressive bubbling and electrolyte loss. Not really a big deal. Do note starting batteries hate being discharged below 80%, and if forced to live around that level, will live a short life.
Short trip driving will not return the battery to 100%. I know many think the alternator is some magical free energy device which nearly instantly recharges batteries, but this is the old wives tale which should be locked up with the insane old wives in the looney bin as they mutter about shoes and how all men are pigs.
I certainly wouldn't assume all is well cause a well known tool maker's tester flashed a couple green lights and gave you the warm and fuzzies.
I also would not freak out because the battery pushed some electrolyte out the caps. I would however test the voltage on the battery terminals themselves with a digital multimeter at your highway cruising speed RPM.
I'd also make sure the firewall and engine grounds are clean and tight as well as any connections on the back of the alternator itself. Disconnect battery before fiddling with connections on back of alternator if you go that far.
Testing at idle does not reveal much