I own a 1994 Camry V6 with 102,000 miles. The rack and pinion is leaking a small amount of fluid (quarter size drip on driveway daily) Would adding AutoRX help in stopping the leak? Also, if it will and I run the AutoRX 1000 miles would using the turkey baster method of replacing the fluid be sufficient and what brand of power steering fluid would be best in this situation?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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AutoRX and 1994 Camry power steering
- Thread starter Farbie
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It probably depends on the leak as to whether the ARX will help or not. It can't hurt, especially if you already have some and are tempted to try it. If you have to buy some then it is a bit of a gamble. Might work, might not. I've used ARX in a '96 with a power steering issue where on the ocassional cold morning the power steering wouldn't work and the ARX in combination with a flush of Red Line Power Steering Fluid seemed to fix it. Flushing is better after the 1000-1500 miles of the ARX but the turker baster method will work too if you do it enough times.
If the ARX fixes the leak then I'd probably try using Mobil 1 ATF or Red Line Power Steering Fluid in it. If it doesn't fix the leak you could try something like Valvoline Max Life pwr str fluid if it meets your spec. It might call for an ATF. I think the Redline is ok for replacing ATF in a power steering system but other power steering fluids might not. Check your manual and see what is spec.'d and compare that to the fluid's spec.'s and what they recommend it for.
If the ARX fixes the leak then I'd probably try using Mobil 1 ATF or Red Line Power Steering Fluid in it. If it doesn't fix the leak you could try something like Valvoline Max Life pwr str fluid if it meets your spec. It might call for an ATF. I think the Redline is ok for replacing ATF in a power steering system but other power steering fluids might not. Check your manual and see what is spec.'d and compare that to the fluid's spec.'s and what they recommend it for.
Originally Posted By: Farbie
I own a 1994 Camry V6 with 102,000 miles. The rack and pinion is leaking a small amount of fluid (quarter size drip on driveway daily) Would adding AutoRX help in stopping the leak? Also, if it will and I run the AutoRX 1000 miles would using the turkey baster method of replacing the fluid be sufficient and what brand of power steering fluid would be best in this situation?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I would try to find out where the leak is coming from, it could be a bad powersteering hose or maybe a loose clamp on the hose.
I own a 1994 Camry V6 with 102,000 miles. The rack and pinion is leaking a small amount of fluid (quarter size drip on driveway daily) Would adding AutoRX help in stopping the leak? Also, if it will and I run the AutoRX 1000 miles would using the turkey baster method of replacing the fluid be sufficient and what brand of power steering fluid would be best in this situation?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I would try to find out where the leak is coming from, it could be a bad powersteering hose or maybe a loose clamp on the hose.
I am to assume that this power steering unit is one the original factory fill?
Then cpo3's post has alot of merit. I would first suck out what you can with your turkey baster, that being the spent fluid. Then refill with OEM fluid with one fluid ounce of Auto-Rx. Run this brew for 500 miles and then use your turkey baster to drain and fill a couple of times. My best thought is that the power steering unit will stop leaking within this 500 mile running phase. However, because the fluid is unfiltered you need to replace the fluid. If the turkey fluid baster mode is applied it will take a minimum of two baster drains and refills with fresh to accomplish your desired results.
Then cpo3's post has alot of merit. I would first suck out what you can with your turkey baster, that being the spent fluid. Then refill with OEM fluid with one fluid ounce of Auto-Rx. Run this brew for 500 miles and then use your turkey baster to drain and fill a couple of times. My best thought is that the power steering unit will stop leaking within this 500 mile running phase. However, because the fluid is unfiltered you need to replace the fluid. If the turkey fluid baster mode is applied it will take a minimum of two baster drains and refills with fresh to accomplish your desired results.
Farbie
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The hoses and clamps are OK. The rack is leaking and yes it has the original factory fill. The manual calls for Dexron type lll ATF.
Farbie,
More than likely the leaks are due to deposits of spent fluid at critical seal interfaces. Proceed with the ARX cleaning application, IMO.
More than likely the leaks are due to deposits of spent fluid at critical seal interfaces. Proceed with the ARX cleaning application, IMO.
I had a feeling that these rack and pinion steering units would eventually leak, that is why I put in 1 ounce of auto-rx in my powersteering reservoir.
I will eventually be draining out this fluid on my Marauder and will be adding Amsoil ATF.
I will eventually be draining out this fluid on my Marauder and will be adding Amsoil ATF.
I had a '95 Camry V6 that didn't have a leak but would be very stiff on colder mornings and there was a noise of some sort I don't recall anymore.
I want to add some caution to using the trukey baster approach, with the caveat I haven't had that car since 2002. IIRC the PS pump is remote from the resevoir. It isn't like a usual American pump with the resevoir and pump all in one place. You can end up with a sizeable quantity of old fluid in the system no matter how many times you "baste".
The approach I recommend is what I used. Whether you add a bit of AutoRx is up to you (I didn't use any because I wasn't aware of it, if it even existed then). I ran the car up on ramps so I could get to the rack while the engine was running. There are the two lines (pressure and return) that run to the rack, more or less in the middle of the rack as I recall. GENTLY loosen one of them just a bit; the idea is to create a "controlled leak" of the fluid. Place your favorite oil change catcher beneath the line and start the engine. If there is no leak, SLOWLY loosen the fitting JUST ENOUGH until the fluid starts to dribble in a tiny stream out of the fitting. DO NOT REMOVE THE FITTING (unless you want to wear ATF).
It won't take long to drain the system, and you won't hurt the PS pump as it isn't running fast or long and there is some fluid still in it to cling to the important parts for a few minutes.
I added Mobil 1 ATF to the system. It's more viscous than some, but is also thermally stable on cold mornings. That alone might solve the leak. but if you want to try AutoRx I doubt it would hurt and might well help. I'd make sure to flush it like I just suggested, though.
Good luck and keep us posted!
I want to add some caution to using the trukey baster approach, with the caveat I haven't had that car since 2002. IIRC the PS pump is remote from the resevoir. It isn't like a usual American pump with the resevoir and pump all in one place. You can end up with a sizeable quantity of old fluid in the system no matter how many times you "baste".
The approach I recommend is what I used. Whether you add a bit of AutoRx is up to you (I didn't use any because I wasn't aware of it, if it even existed then). I ran the car up on ramps so I could get to the rack while the engine was running. There are the two lines (pressure and return) that run to the rack, more or less in the middle of the rack as I recall. GENTLY loosen one of them just a bit; the idea is to create a "controlled leak" of the fluid. Place your favorite oil change catcher beneath the line and start the engine. If there is no leak, SLOWLY loosen the fitting JUST ENOUGH until the fluid starts to dribble in a tiny stream out of the fitting. DO NOT REMOVE THE FITTING (unless you want to wear ATF).
It won't take long to drain the system, and you won't hurt the PS pump as it isn't running fast or long and there is some fluid still in it to cling to the important parts for a few minutes.
I added Mobil 1 ATF to the system. It's more viscous than some, but is also thermally stable on cold mornings. That alone might solve the leak. but if you want to try AutoRx I doubt it would hurt and might well help. I'd make sure to flush it like I just suggested, though.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Farbie, have the dust boots (bellows) on the ends of the rack been torn at some point? If one tore unnoticed for a significant amount of time then dust and dirt from the outside could damage the rack end seal.
well the fluid should have been changed a long time ago> change it first!
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