Auto RX recommendation for oil burning snowblower

[john_ertw]

I did a bit of searching but didn't find my answer. I just got my hands on a Honda HS35 snowblower with the G150 3.5 hp engine. This thing burns some oil on startup and I suspect while running based on the smell of the exhaust. Unfortunately I haven't had it long enough to see if the oil level drops.

I have some Auto RX on hand that I'm thinking of using, but am trying to figure out how to apply it. I know the general rule of thumb is 1 oz per quart. Does this apply to small engines that have tiny oil capacities (0.74 qt in this case)?

All the Auto rx application instructions I saw on their site are for cars and state length of application in miles. Is there an application based on number of hours for small engines?

I'm also debating running Auto RX right now to try to improve it ASAP or running it one season to see if the oil level drops noticably so that I will have a baseline to compare to after the application. Any opinions?

I look forward to the responsese.

 

[bmwtechguy]

Put 1-2 oz in this snowblower with some 5W-30 non-synthetic oil for 10 or 15 hours total run time, then drain it out and again run regular non-synthetic oil another 10 or 15 hours total. After completion, you can use whatever oil you choose with a 1 oz maintenance dose from there on out. Keep an eye on your oil level during all this, obviously. This is what I would do in your situation, but Frank Miller or Rick20 may have a different recommendation.

If you will have trouble getting 20 hrs of run time in one season, then shorten both intervals somewhat. It's not an exact science, but it works. Maintenance dose will clean up whatever may be leftover from main cleaning which will focus on cleaning the rings/piston up for better cylinder sealing and less oil burning. If you're still burning oil afterwards, You may have valve guide clearance issues which ARX will not fix.

 

[duaneb9729]

you need a snow blower in South Carolina? smiles

 

[c3po]

I live in Maryland and have the 9 horsepower honda snowblower, you live up in CANADA and have the 3.5 horsepower model, I think my model is the HS928.

You need a better snowblower, that thing is worn out, how much snow do you guys get up there each winter.

 

[Gary Allan]

I imagine that bmw's small engine may not be on a snow blower (though one should always "be prepared") ..and c3po has a professional lawn/landscape maintenance business, iirc. Kinda splain's the different levels of robust machinery between Maryland and our Canadian friend.


My 3.5hp Tecumseh handled the blizzard of 96 just fine ..though a 9-11hp 36" would have been nice.

At that treat rate, I'd just alternate 2oz/quart on and off for a few changes ..then retreat to 1oz/quart from there on out.

 

[john_ertw]

I took a better look at the snowblower today and found that the thing smokes constantly, not just at start up. Based on that information is there any possibility of auto rx fixing this or can someone say I be wasting my time and auto rx which can be used elsewhere?

Are the high milage oils a good idea for either the clean or rinse phase of auto rx or for long term use? If so which brand is recommended? Cost of these oils is not an issue since it is such a small amount of oil.


c3po: I know a 3.5 hp engine will not do the job of a 9 or 11 hp model, but it will do a better job than my shovel (although the shovel never smoked).

 

[Gary Allan]

Just use a simple oil for the Auto-rx. No HM ..

I don't know if you're spinning your tires or not. I'd give it a try and see what happens. You should know within 4oz of use. (2 in ..zero in ..2 in ..zero in).

 

[Rick20]

I just retired a Poulin lawn mower, purchased in 1992, not because of the Briggs and Stratton motor, but due to the mower housing falling appart. But along the way the motor had tendancies to smoke badly during start up and for the first minute of operation. I used 1 fluyid ounce of ARX with each crankcase full of oil and oil burning smoke was minimized to next to nothing. I also noted that the first start pull became almost a given in short order. In your case, check the air filter, likely replace, fuel filter if original replace, add an ounce($2.00) and let us know how this unit is performing. If it has not had a recent oil change in the last 20 hours of operation change out the oil after 5 hours of running with ARX. Then run an ounce with the fresh change.

 

[Ken2]

If the A-Rx cures the smoking, it was because the piston rings were stuck in the grooves with carbon. This is due to oil that can't handle the heat in that spot, even on a snowy winter day. When you finish the A-Rx clean & rinse, change to a synthetic 5W-30 oil to better handle the heat on those hot spots inside the engine.

 

[Rick20]

In the case of my old 1994 Briggs motor after running a cleaning dose and rinse, smoking returned at start up. Of coarse this motor had countless hours on it. I think I had replaced everything else on it twice before the mowing deck rotted out.
But I think there is more to it. When there was a small amount of ARX in the system, it would start always on the first pull, with miniscule to no oil burn off. When there was no ARX in the SAE 30 weight or 10W30 oil it would puff alot more smoke right at start up. I am guessing that perhaps the polar nature of ARX helped leave a film of oil on the cyclinder walls between each use, which in Tampa is still once a week even in the winter.

I only use my push mower(self propelled but I still call it exercize) to edge my lawn along steep slopes down to the road and around flower beds, etc..Probably the worst senario for a splash type oiling system. Typical useage was 40 minutes of service each time it was cranked. It was a much happier camper with ARX in the sump, no question about it.

 

[john_ertw]

I changed the oil with 10W30 I had on hand after posting on Oct 19. The old oil was really dark and thin. I ran the engine for about 5 minutes after that without any noticeable improvement to the smoke.

On Oct 20 I realized that the choke knob was not connected to the choke on the engine due to a broken plastic linkage. Thus I was running it with the choke closed until this point. After discovering this I started the engine and manually opened the choke as the engine warmed up. It reduced the amount of smoke by a little, but not much.

On Oct 21 I started the machine again with the choke closed and opened it as it warmed up. It smoked on start up, but once I was able to open the choke the smoke slowed down and then stopped after a minute or so.

I ran the engine again on Oct 22. There was a little smoke on start up with the choke close which disappeared when I opened the choke (maybe 30 seconds of lighter smoking).

My guess is that the fresh oil is doing a decent job of cleaning and is why the smoke has been reduced. The oil was definitely darker than new after running it on Oct 22 (at this point a total of 30-45 minutes of use on that oil).

I will try to change the oil again on the weekend which will stay in for this season. I will use 5W30 (probably Castrol GTX that is on hand) with Auto RX. I will try to change it again when it has between 5 and 10 hours use on it to a straight dino. Next season I may try a syn, but that is a long time from now.

One thing I don't totally understand is why would the engine smoke with the choke closed? Is it due to running too rich?

 

[Gary Allan]

High vacuum on the intake stroke ..the same ring issue. It can happen in a higher windage situation on a car engine too. If the dealer overfilled my BMW ..and I wound it out and then coasted with the throttle closed, the next blip would produce a brief plume of oil smoke.

 

[02zx9r]

Originally Posted By: duaneb9729
you need a snow blower in South Carolina? smiles


Original Poster is in Canada, not SC

 

[Rick20]

Yes the motor will smoke with the choke closed. The overly rich fuel to air mixture can not burn completely. T add insult to injury a fair amount of of the unburned fuel is blowing buy the piston rings and contaminating the oil and likely causing fouled rings on the way by.

You are on the right track. Get the choke linkage fixed. Clean up the rings and the oiling system in general by running the ARX with the current oil. You will be good to go.