auto 10w/40 ok for wet clutch
- Thread starter moontan
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15w40 is all i ever run. forget motorbike oils. too much $$$ for the measly benefits.
This topic is pretty much beat to death. Everyone has their spin on this. My experience has told me that many times this is machine dependent and also dependent on the life left in the clutch. You can get Amsoil 10W40 for around $5.50 a qt or Valvoline Motorcycle oil (conventional) for about $2-2.50. Both of these are JASO MA rated and contain no friction modifiers to harm the clutch. The Amsoil automobile 10W40 and the Motorcycle 10W40 are the exact same oils, they are just put in different bottles for marketing purposes. These bikes can be tough on oil, so don't cheap out.
I ran Chevron Delo 400 in my old DR350 as I don't think you can find a finer Conventional oil. They even recommended it for motorcycle applications on their website. I noticed in the VOE section that on a recent analysis that they now add 200 ppm of Moly. I called Chevron and they confirmed this saying it is no longer suited for wet clutch appliations.
Shell Rotella is one I believe that still does not add moly to their 15w40 mix and a very small amount to their synthetic 5w40.
As far as a regular 10w40 / 20w50, I find it hard to believe companies would invest to put moly in those but I really don't know for sure.
The old deal that as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API label probably doesn't hold water any more. That is a fact considering Chevron Delo 400 says that yet contains moly as does Mobil 1 15w50 to a lesser degree (68 ppm moly)
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Shell Rotella is one I believe that still does not add moly to their 15w40 mix and a very small amount to their synthetic 5w40.
As far as a regular 10w40 / 20w50, I find it hard to believe companies would invest to put moly in those but I really don't know for sure.
The old deal that as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" on the API label probably doesn't hold water any more. That is a fact considering Chevron Delo 400 says that yet contains moly as does Mobil 1 15w50 to a lesser degree (68 ppm moly)
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Try not to equate molybdenum content with energy conserving status...
I understand that and I used to not consider Moly to "energy conserving". The problem is that many feel if the API doesn't say it it then it is fine for wet clutches. Even my manual for my 650R says that SH or higher is ok as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving". That just isn't the case in my mind. I really wish there was some designator for Moly that would be required to be placed on the oil.
For my bike I am going to play it safe with Amsoil 10w40 at my next change where it should be broken in.
For my bike I am going to play it safe with Amsoil 10w40 at my next change where it should be broken in.
Unless you are scratching for your next meal (you should sell the bike then), just spend $10 - 20 more per year and get a good oil that you know isn't going to cause problems. The motorcycle specific conventional oils are pretty cheap and some of the synthetics like Amsoil 10W40 are reasonable and won't break the bank. Most bikes only hold a qt or 2. What bike do you have? I'm sure the Kawasaki oil is decent stuff.
If you are looking for best bang for the buck, use an HDEO 15w40 that has an Allison C4 rating, The C4 rating means it's rated for wet clutch transmissions. Many if not most HDEO 15w40s are C4 rated.
Some people believe you need to use a motorcycle oil in a motorcycle. Please consider their sensitivities and glue a picture of a mototcycle and a$4 higher price tag to the HDEO bottle before you use it.
Some people believe you need to use a motorcycle oil in a motorcycle. Please consider their sensitivities and glue a picture of a mototcycle and a$4 higher price tag to the HDEO bottle before you use it.
Moontan,
I've been using Valvoline conventional 10w40 in my 2001 KL250 with no problems. I've been told to avoid oils that say "energy conserving" on the label. The only oil I've had a problem with was Amsoil 20w50 Synthetic Racing. This caused my wet clutch to slip at highway speeds. I put the conventional oil back in and everything has been fine since. Good Luck.
KL250 (Homegreene)
I've been using Valvoline conventional 10w40 in my 2001 KL250 with no problems. I've been told to avoid oils that say "energy conserving" on the label. The only oil I've had a problem with was Amsoil 20w50 Synthetic Racing. This caused my wet clutch to slip at highway speeds. I put the conventional oil back in and everything has been fine since. Good Luck.
KL250 (Homegreene)
The oil you speak of is probably Mobil 1 motorcycle which is certainly not worth it. I use Amsoil 10w-40 for $4.55 a quart.
The oil I speak of is various brands of dino HDEO 15w40 oils with C4 on the label. About $1.60/qt.
KL250,
I just thought I'd mention the Amsoil 20w-50 Racing oil is rated JASO MB (not MA) and is not for use in motorcycle wet clutch applications. It is friction modified which probably explains the slippage you experienced. Have a good one!
REDDOG
I just thought I'd mention the Amsoil 20w-50 Racing oil is rated JASO MB (not MA) and is not for use in motorcycle wet clutch applications. It is friction modified which probably explains the slippage you experienced. Have a good one!
REDDOG
After Amsoil 15w40 made the clutch slip, I did a couple of short drain intervals with Castrol GTX 10W-40, and the clutch hooks up good again.
yeah, i just bought a klr 650,and have been using kawachem(made by Citgo) conventional 10w40 in my previous zrx1200. seems to be good stuff,but $3.25 a qt.i know of peeps who run the diesel 115w40 conventional, and hd 15w40 conventionals.thumpers are hard on oil,i will change it every 1k or so.maybe try Full Synthetic after breakin...
[ December 04, 2004, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: moontan ]
[ December 04, 2004, 03:20 PM: Message edited by: moontan ]
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