ATF for a 2006 Toyota Tundra

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May 30, 2007
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Indiana
Hello all, Our dad owns a 2006 Tundra. I want to drain and refill the transmission. I am hoping to flush any break-in metals out of there. The manual calls for Toyota WS atf. I have been looking around the local auto stores, trying to find atf carrying the WS spec. The only ones I found was Valvoline Maxlife ATF, but upon checking their website, the product data sheet says it doesn't meet the viscosity requirement, yet it says Toyota WS. What is up with that? The only other fluid I found was at Rural King. Lucas has just come out with a new multi-vehicle atf that says Toyota WS, along with all kinds of other specs. It is not their older Sure-Shift atf, but a new product. Anybody else seen this? I checked Lucas website, nothing about this new stuff. They must be slow updating the website, because there is other new products from them. A power steering fluid, some kind of atf conditioner additive. Is Lucas any good? The label makes it sound like good stuff, but I know that doesn't mean much. I'm trying to find a quality atf for the Tundra, but it is hard finding something for WS. Too new, I guess. Plenty of choices for Toyota "T" specs. What to do?
 
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Toyota uses a "sealed" system, making it difficult for the average guy to service the fluid. There are now some good syn WS replacment fluids out there, the [censored] is that it's difficult to service the tranny \:\(
 
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Amsoil has a new ATF made especially for Toyotas, Fords, & GM's with the low viscosity specification. The prduct code is "ATL" (Amsoil's product for almost every other application is "ATF") Amsoil makes a very high quality product with excellent high and low temp performance.
 
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Did this a few months back. Hope this writeup helps. I used Redline D6. Amazon.com has it in a 4 gallon case for $130 shipped. Keep in mind this write up is for a Tacoma. Not familiar with the differences. Avoid Lucas. I like the D6, but Amsoil ATL is said to be good as well. First you need to locate the cooler return line. It should be the bottom hose. Confirm by detaching and using a container to catch fluid that comes out while an assistant cranks the engine. Once this is established using a long clear hose with a brass hose mender ( male to male) hook into the return line and route the hose to a suitable container with the 2 quart level clearly maked for you or your assistant. Next Go under the truck and locate the fill plug. The plug is a 24 MM and is located on the passenger side near the tail shaft of the transmission. It has the letters WS stamped in the middle. Remove and set aside. Next locate the drain plug. It is a standard bolt whereas the check plug ( which you will remove later) requires a hex bit. One thing thats very important to rememeber before removing either of these is to get the special crush washers at your local Toyota Parts department. They are the same for both the check plug and the drain plug. The fill plug uses a rubber o-ring which should be re-usable. Now you can remove the drain plug. The amsoil site claims like around 3.6 quarts but I only saw about 2.7 or so. Might have been a little low. Its merely interesting. Just make sure to put in what came out for now as you will confirm the level later. After drain is complete reinstall plug and new washer. At this point you will need to have a suitable lube pump handy along with your chosen ATF. I used a Pyrex measuring cup to measure the fluid that came out and later to measure the two quarts put in each time, but I was also using one gallon jugs without hash marks. Now its like any other flush with the exception of having to pump in two quarts at a time. After you have gotten a good flush. Reconnect the return line to the radiator. Now its time to jumper the DLC. Take a suitable wire and jump from pin #4 to pin# 13. After wire is secure start the truck. Now you need to shift the transmission from Neutral to Drive back and forth holding for approx 1 1/2 seconds for SIX seconds total until the trans oil temp light which is red and is located on the tach side is illuminated for 2 seconds and then goes off. After this happens the computer is in trans temp detectection mode. Other diagnostic lights will flash. Disregard. Let the truck idle in Neutral until the trans oil temp light comes on and stays on. Its nice to have your helper under the truck at this time to quickly remove the plug. The light will come on at approx 46 degrees C. When the light comes on with the engine still running remove the check plug. If fluid comes out let it continue unil there is a slight trickle and then reinstall the plug and you are good to go. If nothing come out pump in about 1/3 to half a quart but make sure to turn off the engine for this so that the oil temp does not go to high in the mean time. After it is filled start the truck and check the level as before. When you have assured the level is good remove the jumper wire and reinstall the drain plug at the rear of the trans. NOTE: If the trans oil temp light starts to flash after being solid red for a time this means the trans temp has exceeded 46 and is beyond proper range. You will need to let it cool down before repeating the process listed above. Enjoy. *Please note that this is just meant to be a guide. I assume no responsibility for any damages that result from any of the recommendations made above.
 
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Joined
Dec 7, 2003
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I've generally found Toyoda dealer price is reasonable. In addition, you get the "approved" AT fluid and not the "suitable for". My Mazda calls for Toyoda T-IV and dealer has it for $5.xx per quart. I have not priced the WS fluid.
 
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Its not sealed. You have a fill plug and a couple drain plugs. You must check the level at a given temperature range. Its pretty easy to do a drain/refill or full flush. Just takes a little common sense. Redline D6, Amsoil ATL, Amalie Synthetic, Supertech DexronVI..... are some choices. WS when bought at the dealership varies in prices. Shop online and then have your dealer price match. You should be able to get it for ~$5 a quart. Any full synth Dex/Merc for the PSF will work fine. Whats the PN for the Lucas ATF that you want to use?
 
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Canton, GA
 Originally Posted By: hate2work
Toyota uses a "sealed" system, making it difficult for the average guy to service the fluid. There are now some good syn WS replacment fluids out there, the [censored] is that it's difficult to service the tranny \:\(
Yeah my 03 Cavalier was supposed to be a sealed system too.But I serviced it.
 
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I am planning on flushing the auto trans in my 05 taco also. I see that Valvoline says their Maxlife Dex/Merc is "recommended" for Toyota TypeIV and WS. Has anyone used this stuff, or have any feedback?
 
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UnDummy is correct. Don't run the maxlife. Some other choices would be RL D6,Amsoil ATL or if you want to go with a less expensive fluid, ST Dexron VI.
 
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Amalie/WolfsHead should work fine too. If you print online prices for WS, dealers' parts departments might give you the shop discount.
 
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Thanks to all. Does it stand to reason that any good name brand DexVI should work then?
 
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If you ask around you wont find anyone who will say for sure if Dex VI can be used in place on WS. The viscosity is right there, but most are hesitant to recommend Dex VI in place of WS. There are a few guys here running super tech Dex VI and If I remember Valvoline.
 
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 Originally Posted By: jeff194
I am planning on flushing the auto trans in my 05 taco also. I see that Valvoline says their Maxlife Dex/Merc is "recommended" for Toyota TypeIV and WS. Has anyone used this stuff, or have any feedback?
Jeff, which type of fluid does your tranny take? It's weird that some fluid makers are saying their product can be used for either application ( WS or T-IV ). Both Maxlife and Amalie say that. But the "Big Two" aftermarket boutique fluid makers ( Amsoil and Redline ) are each making a different viscosity fluid now for WS and T-IV use. With excellent choices form those companies, I would not use a "one size fits all" fluid in my rig.
 
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