ATF durability tests? Etc

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steve40th

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I have been reading information overload on ATF's. From Transynd/Mobil ATF/Amsoil to lowely Wal Mart Supertek.
Who really knows whats best for your application, especially if it is a rebuilt transmission, or an OEM. How is you car driven plays a big part in ATF life, IMHO. If you race the [censored] out of it, you may need a better ATF that wont break down.
But, where are the actual tests to prove one is better than the other. I am kinda reluctant to believe the stories of, "it feels better, looks cleaner, seems to run better" when there are no hard data to back it.
So, if there is Data from independents sources, please share it.
Why am I asking? Well, I am on the third rebuild of my 4L60 (1993 non electronic) Vette transmission. This time being built properly with better internals(Raybestos Z pak clutches modified, and clearances etc and larger cooler. It will be driven semi-hard as I do a few autocrosses/
 
You will really like the Z pac material. I use it in every street/perf transmission I build and Altos in race applications.

Most of my applications are heavy tow or racing so Amsoil universal or Redline D4 work very well. I think in most passenger car applications regualr ATF and frequent changes is best. Syn of course doesn't oxidize near as quickly and stands up to heat better.

If the shop knows what they are doing they can add an addition pack to the 4l60.
 
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go to the lubegard site and call them on their lubegard red, I just had a mopar transmission rebuilt and put lubegard red in it.check it out
 
Originally Posted By: steve40th
Why am I asking? Well, I am on the third rebuild of my 4L60 (1993 non electronic) Vette transmission. This time being built properly with better internals(Raybestos Z pak clutches modified, and clearances etc and larger cooler. It will be driven semi-hard as I do a few autocrosses/


Increase the cooler to the max. Switch over to a synthetic ATF - it is more linear at high temperatures. Consider adding Lubegard. This is a product based on esterized natural oils which provides some additional protection at high transmission temperatures.

And add an oil temperature gauge for the transmission.

If you're getting oil temperatures over 225 F or so, you need to find a way to cool it down.
 
Thank, I have A big B&M cooler, and its goes through my BeCool radiator which has a 7 row cooler integral to it. I never saw temps over 180 even while auto crossing, but that was with a smaller cooler. This was using a laser temp gauge checking lines and pulling stick out and checking the tip.
 
You didn't describe what was actually happening to the 4L60, but the issues don't sound temp related or even fluid related. I had repeated problems years back with a 700R4 that were eventually solved with the latest, greatest front pump. Gotta have that pressure... it all starts there. Also install an inline trans filter, like a Magnefine. It will help both the trans and the fluid last longer, especially after a rebuild where there will be dirt from the rebuild, failure debris and break-in debris.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
You didn't describe what was actually happening to the 4L60, but the issues don't sound temp related or even fluid related. I had repeated problems years back with a 700R4 that were eventually solved with the latest, greatest front pump. Gotta have that pressure... it all starts there. Also install an inline trans filter, like a Magnefine. It will help both the trans and the fluid last longer, especially after a rebuild where there will be dirt from the rebuild, failure debris and break-in debris.

The transmissions last build was due to improper TV cable adjusmtent (93 Corvette with ASR is year specific to adjustment), and torque converter wasnt in properly (long story short, it was pulled flush up to flexplate, so it wasnt in the best possible position within pump).
The transmission is being rebuilt with 10 vane pump, modified TransGo shift kit ( 20 years of R&D on this kit), better clutches etc etc. It will be running higher pressure, app 240 psi at WOT.
I am trying to ensure that after the build, and me adjusting TV cable, that the fluid is the best for a transmission very sensitive to cooling and clearances.
 
Cant do a 4L65E. MIne is a 93 4L60, with TV cable. The internals are really no different. If you look at mechanical parts associated with a 93 4L60 to a 4L65E, there isnt really much as development didnt do much, other than electrical control from the PCM/ECM.
 
Originally Posted By: steve40th
But, where are the actual tests to prove one is better than the other. I am kinda reluctant to believe the stories of, "it feels better, looks cleaner, seems to run better" when there are no hard data to back it.
So, if there is Data from independents sources, please share it.


This test doesn't compare the performance of different brands, but rather the different frictional behaviors and different fluid properties of various OEM standards:

http://www.sae.org/technical/papers/2007-01-3987
 
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