Anything worth fixing.........

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.....with chinese parts is worth fixing again.

Normally I am diligent in replacing any of my vehicles parts with US made replacements. Recently I had a wheel bearing fail on my Dodge, in the middle of my work week. On my way to work I stopped in at Oreillys to pick one up. The only one they had was a Master Pro, the cheaper bearing. The box said "Made in USA" so I scooped it up and headed into work. I was also running on a deadline to get to GA to attend my grandmothers funeral.

After I had the truck apart, and ready to put the new bearing on, I open the box and right on the bearing says "Made in China". I put it on not having much choice being the middle of the night at work 40 miles away from the nearest auto parts store. The next morning on the way home, I receive a call that my grandmother passed away.

I drove the truck to GA and back, and to work the next week, 1400 miles total the bearing has been in service. Last night I changed my oil and checked everything out, lo and behold, there is slack in my chinese bearing. More slack than the one I took off. I expected to have to replace it soon, but not after 2 weeks and 1400 miles.

This morning I found an Oreillys the next town over that had the US made National bearing and went picked it up. I will be changing that out shortly and bringing the chinese garbage back for a warranty refund in the morning.

I did notice though, that the box the National bearing came in says "Made in China". Anyone have any idea why? I assume that the box from the MP bearing was made in the US and vice versa for the National.

Sorry for the long post, just wanted to share my story/vent.
 
What isn't made in China these days ????
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Originally Posted By: defektes
There is alot of stuff made in the states, just gotta look for it.




Not for much longer, I would guess....
 
In my economics class we learned that when you send more money out than comes back to you, it devalues your currency. OK, kinda like monopoly - if both sides dont trade approx the same amount of goods, services, and money - things don't stay pretty. sounds simple! why then........
 
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I don't think I would junk a (rear wheel drive, front) wheel bearing just because there is slack. How did you torque it? Why not re-torque it?
What have you to loose?
 
Originally Posted By: willix
Prehaps it was a splndle torque issue?
Originally Posted By: expat
I don't think I would junk a (rear wheel drive, front) wheel bearing just because there is slack. How did you torque it? Why not re-torque it?
What have you to loose?


It is a 2 wheel drive, so no axle shaft to torque. It also uses a hub assembly instead of a pressed in bearing, my apologies for not mentioning that in my original post.
Just finished changing it out. The seal on the backside of the bearing was leaking all kinds of grease.
 
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So it's a conical open bearing and the race was replaced as well. And not a bearing cassette or hub assy. replacement.
 
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I had the same problem with a front wheel bearing for my caddy. It was the chinese cheap one and it went out after less than 5k miles. and by going out I dont me jeeze it has some play or a little sqeek. At 75mph it made a bang like I hit a bowling ball with little metal bits and grease slung everywhere.

I went ahead and sprung for a US made Timken when I replaced it. It better be good for at least another 25-50k. Im getting tired of doing them! Though the other front is a chinese replacement it seems to be doing well, maybe I got a good one.

and by front wheel bearing I mean the assembly.. does anyone press in and out their own bearings anymore?
 
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Originally Posted By: willix
So it's a conical open bearing and the race was replaced as well. And not a bearing cassette or hub assy. replacement.


One of these:

PTVR%20C0425260.jpg
 
that is a loaded hub/flange assy. It is a bearing Cassette the flange pressed in the ID and the OD pressed in the hub and retained with a snap ring. This type of bearing cassette is actually two conical bearings back to back and it is very inportant to tighten these proper or thay will either loosen or or if over tightend they will surely fail. Its not much different than a open bearing hub but more sensitive to seal failure if slop developes. did you ues the supplied lock nut? As I mentioned before. perhaps you didn't tighten the spindle proper. If it says 200 ft.lb it doesn't mean 150 or worse yet 250. you do not want to blast this on with an impact. If it gets over tight it just distorts the the bearing sleeve and tears it all up inside. If under tightend it will surely loosen but maybe theres a chance it's not ruined. Over tight is what I think happened here. A shaft is bolted in the center and that whats was over or under tightend.
 
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I swear to god jesus mary and holy joseph, I see splines in that frt. hub of a rear wheel drive dodge truck. If you ask me that's a drive hub all day long, night time too. It must employ a big lock nut for the splined shaft that is required to hold that bearing together. someone kick me.
 
Originally Posted By: willix
that is a loaded hub/flange assy. It is a bearing Cassette the flange pressed in the ID and the OD pressed in the hub and retained with a snap ring. This type of bearing cassette is actually two conical bearings back to back and it is very inportant to tighten these proper or thay will either loosen or or if over tightend they will surely fail. Its not much different than a open bearing hub but more sensitive to seal failure if slop developes. did you ues the supplied lock nut? As I mentioned before. perhaps you didn't tighten the spindle proper. If it says 200 ft.lb it doesn't mean 150 or worse yet 250. you do not want to blast this on with an impact. If it gets over tight it just distorts the the bearing sleeve and tears it all up inside. If under tightend it will surely loosen but maybe theres a chance it's not ruined. Over tight is what I think happened here. A shaft is bolted in the center and that whats was over or under tightend.


The shaft in the center would be for a 4 wheel drive vehicle (CV shaft). My truck is 2 wheel drive, no CV shaft to over or under tighten. Just the 3 bolts on the rear side to secure it.
 
Originally Posted By: willix
I swear to god jesus mary and holy joseph, I see splines in that frt. hub of a rear wheel drive dodge truck. If you ask me that's a drive hub all day long, night time too. It must employ a big lock nut for the splined shaft that is required to hold that bearing together. someone kick me.


The assemblies are the same on these trucks for 4 wheel drive and 2 wheel drive, thus the splined shaft. The bearing holds itself together just fine without a CV shaft going through the center, at least the original one did for 120,000 miles.
 
Do you have a picture of the inboard side of the bearing?

Not all bearings have a hub nut. Some are orbital roll formed, meaning it is one big rivet holding it together.

I'm pretty sure that some hubs are manufactured with a spline and marketed for both drive and non-drive applications.
 
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Originally Posted By: willix
I swear to god jesus mary and holy joseph, I see splines in that frt. hub of a rear wheel drive dodge truck. If you ask me that's a drive hub all day long, night time too. It must employ a big lock nut for the splined shaft that is required to hold that bearing together. someone kick me.


Did a front wheel bearing/hub assembly on my bros 03 ram 1500. its 2wd with a splined hub like that one. If you want I can take a pic of the old one (orginal).
 
Originally Posted By: Kestas
Do you have a picture of the inboard side of the bearing?


Here are a few shots of the old one that I took off:





 
While I was at the auto parts store returning bad bearing, I bought a set of Monroe shocks as ride in truck was bad since I bought it. I changed them out tonight and they were the originals.
The passenger side front was the worst, it compressed real easy and never did push back out. Would this be a factor in the premature failure of the bearing on that side?

BTW, the truck drives like its riding on toilet paper now lol. A simple 1.5 hour shock change made all the difference in the world in ride, and driving comfort/control.
 
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