Any real world difference with 5w30 vs 10w30 synthetic in a generator?

i personally like 5w40 in my diesel engines and small gasoline engines. Never had a problem from -30 to over 100 degrees

Do you think a 5W40 is the optimum choice when you are running a generator hard, like after a hurricane in 100 degree temperatures for an extended period?

Wouldn't a 15W40 be a better choice?

Do you think 5W40 is the optimum choice when you are running a OPE engine hard like after a blizzard when it is -20?

Wouldn't a 0W30 be a better choice?


I see this 5W40 choice posted all the time - it certainly is a good choice and I use it myself - but IMHO is usually not the best choice.

Jack of all trades master of none.............................
 
Do you think a 5W40 is the optimum choice when you are running a generator hard, like after a hurricane in 100 degree temperatures for an extended period?

Wouldn't a 15W40 be a better choice?

Do you think 5W40 is the optimum choice when you are running a OPE engine hard like after a blizzard when it is -20?

Wouldn't a 0W30 be a better choice?


I see this 5W40 choice posted all the time - it certainly is a good choice and I use it myself - but IMHO is usually not the best choice.

Jack of all trades master of none.............................
Thats why i use it - Jack of all Trades - one oil fits all and never fails - someday I may switch to 0w40
 
Thats why i use it - Jack of all Trades - one oil fits all and never fails - someday I may switch to 0w40
“Those who would give up essential oil performance, to purchase a little temporary oil convenience, deserve neither oil performance nor oil convenience”.

Benjamin Franklin :ROFLMAO:
 
“Those who would give up essential oil performance, to purchase a little temporary oil convenience, deserve neither oil performance nor oil convenience”.

Benjamin Franklin :ROFLMAO:
Yeah I don't think that's at all true in this case. In a lot of cases it seems like they put lower in ingredients in grades that don't require the higher end ingredients to achieve performance.
The 0w40 is chosen by a lot of us because of the number of approvals that it meets, which is an indicator of quality, not just 0w40 vs 5w40 etc....
Good enough for a Porsche, plenty good enough for your generator for example.
 
0w40 or 5w40 is about the most versatile oil for OPE. Thin enough when cold, thicker when hot. The thing with OPE is just make sure it has oil. But for OPEs that will run hours on end, wanting an oil that will stand up to that is a must.
 
High mileage oil good for small engines, diesel oil good in small engines.
Euro oils good
You have no cats no worries
 
0w40 or 5w40 is about the most versatile oil for OPE. Thin enough when cold, thicker when hot. The thing with OPE is just make sure it has oil. But for OPEs that will run hours on end, wanting an oil that will stand up to that is a must.

No doubt -

But is 0W40 the best choice for a generator running hard for 24 hours straight when it is 100 degrees outside?

Putting the question of additives on the side for a moment and just talk about viscosity.

What advantage does the 0 give you when it is 100 degrees outside? I don't see any.

Does it "hurt" anything? I don't think it does under normal operation. But that is like saying using Super-Tec is the same as Mobil1.

I have and still use both in my Tahoe - I don't see any difference. I do pretty frequent oil changes. But is there a difference?

If you ran a generic 0W40 and a generic 15W40 and a generic straight SAE 40 under the same generator in 100 degree temps for 100 hours straight and tested the oils - which one would be holding up the best?


I would guess the SAE40 > 15W40 >0W40. But that is my opinion based on nothing objective or scientific.

Which oil will suffer the most shear?

Does air cooled OPE VS liquid cooled automotive change anything?

Seems like someone should have tested these things -

Why does 15W40 even exist? If 0W40 is so much better why would so many diesel engines use 15W40?
 
No doubt -

But is 0W40 the best choice for a generator running hard for 24 hours straight when it is 100 degrees outside?

Putting the question of additives on the side for a moment and just talk about viscosity.

What advantage does the 0 give you when it is 100 degrees outside? I don't see any.

Does it "hurt" anything? I don't think it does under normal operation. But that is like saying using Super-Tec is the same as Mobil1.

I have and still use both in my Tahoe - I don't see any difference. I do pretty frequent oil changes. But is there a difference?

If you ran a generic 0W40 and a generic 15W40 and a generic straight SAE 40 under the same generator in 100 degree temps for 100 hours straight and tested the oils - which one would be holding up the best?


I would guess the SAE40 > 15W40 >0W40. But that is my opinion based on nothing objective or scientific.

Which oil will suffer the most shear?

Does air cooled OPE VS liquid cooled automotive change anything?

Seems like someone should have tested these things -

Why does 15W40 even exist? If 0W40 is so much better why would so many diesel engines use 15W40?
Agree, but at zero degrees it would probably be better with 0w40, 0w40 will shear a little faster but then you should change it a little sooner if you need cold weather starting. You will notice that 15w40 is starting to get replaced with 5w40, 0w40 and 10w30 in alot of newer diesel engines.
 
No doubt -

But is 0W40 the best choice for a generator running hard for 24 hours straight when it is 100 degrees outside?

Putting the question of additives on the side for a moment and just talk about viscosity.

What advantage does the 0 give you when it is 100 degrees outside? I don't see any.

Does it "hurt" anything? I don't think it does under normal operation. But that is like saying using Super-Tec is the same as Mobil1.

I have and still use both in my Tahoe - I don't see any difference. I do pretty frequent oil changes. But is there a difference?

If you ran a generic 0W40 and a generic 15W40 and a generic straight SAE 40 under the same generator in 100 degree temps for 100 hours straight and tested the oils - which one would be holding up the best?


I would guess the SAE40 > 15W40 >0W40. But that is my opinion based on nothing objective or scientific.

Which oil will suffer the most shear?

Does air cooled OPE VS liquid cooled automotive change anything?

Seems like someone should have tested these things -

Why does 15W40 even exist? If 0W40 is so much better why would so many diesel engines use 15W40?
I think if you're choosing from what you can buy on sale at Walmart or other over the counter stuff...the 0w40 is possibly the best oil you can get for the price.

If you're going to pay more than double that and get HPL, Amsoil, Redline, Motul etc then there is probably less quality difference from one grade to the next, so get the higher viscosity for that high temperature use.
If you're buying 15w40 then typically that oil was designed with diesel engines in mind and it's usually a conventional or synthetic blend so it's not likely a "better" choice than a 0w40 in a generator. But you could buy a boutique 10w40 or 20w50 instead.
 
Agree, but at zero degrees it would probably be better with 0w40, 0w40 will shear a little faster but then you should change it a little sooner if you need cold weather starting. You will notice that 15w40 is starting to get replaced with 5w40, 0w40 and 10w30 in alot of newer diesel engines.
Eureka!

I totally agree. Different weigh oil for the extreme conditions are better than broadly rated oil trying to do everything from subzero cold to blazing 105 degree heat.

I think diesel going to 5W40 and 10W30 is the same concept as 0W20 in cars. Trying to drive fuel efficiency - but that is a guess.

It sure could also be oils are getting better so they can save fuel and still provide adequate protection.
 
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I think if you're choosing from what you can buy on sale at Walmart or other over the counter stuff...the 0w40 is possibly the best oil you can get for the price.

If you're going to pay more than double that and get HPL, Amsoil, Redline, Motul etc then there is probably less quality difference from one grade to the next, so get the higher viscosity for that high temperature use.
If you're buying 15w40 then typically that oil was designed with diesel engines in mind and it's usually a conventional or synthetic blend so it's not likely a "better" choice than a 0w40 in a generator. But you could buy a boutique 10w40 or 20w50 instead.
I change the oil everyday when I am running my backup generator during a power outage. Per the owners manual.

Between Walmart and NAPA it is easy to find a deal on quality oil.

NAPA just had a sale, still going on $17.99 a 4 quart jug of Valvoline blue 10W30 semi synthetic. The 15W40 Valvoline Blue (conventional) is only $16.99. I can get free delivery but I usually just stop at the store.


But of course I say do whatever you think is best - and I certainly am not saying a 0W40 will blow up your engine.

0W40 is the Crescent wrench of oil (0W50 is a Channellock plier!) - sometimes a crescent wrench is the right tool - but them sometimes you need a specific socket that only fits one size nut. I usually pick the specific tool if I have it on hand - but when I don't than any way to get it done / even an occasional Vise-grip will get used.
 
I change the oil everyday when I am running my backup generator during a power outage. Per the owners manual.

Between Walmart and NAPA it is easy to find a deal on quality oil.

NAPA just had a sale, still going on $17.99 a 4 quart jug of Valvoline blue 10W30 semi synthetic. The 15W40 Valvoline Blue (conventional) is only $16.99. I can get free delivery but I usually just stop at the store.


But of course I say do whatever you think is best - and I certainly am not saying a 0W40 will blow up your engine.

0W40 is the Crescent wrench of oil (0W50 is a Channellock plier!) - sometimes a crescent wrench is the right tool - but them sometimes you need a specific socket that only fits one size nut. I usually pick the specific tool if I have it on hand - but when I don't than any way to get it done / even an occasional Vise-grip will get used.
I think if you're having to change it so frequently then it makes sense to want to spend less on the oil. In that case going with a higher viscosity low cost oil seems like a good option. It doesn't need to perform at low temperature and it probably protects similarly to something like m1 0w40 (at least for a short internal like 24 hours) but at a lower cost.
 
I think if you're having to change it so frequently then it makes sense to want to spend less on the oil. In that case going with a higher viscosity low cost oil seems like a good option. It doesn't need to perform at low temperature and it probably protects similarly to something like m1 0w40 (at least for a short internal like 24 hours) but at a lower cost.
Plus I overthink everything oil related. Come to think of it I over think a lot of other stuff too. :LOL:
 
Why does 15W40 even exist? If 0W40 is so much better why would so many diesel engines use 15W40?
Because 0-10w 40s are required to have a minimum HTHS of 3.5 whereas 15w-40 has a minimum 3.7 HTHS. That would make a difference in any engine running long hours at heavy load. A generator being called upon to heat water or power a central A/C system would seem to fall into that category.

FWIIW I run 5w-40 in my generators they tend to run at lighter loads and never more than a few hours at a time. Were I to find myself in a situation where the power was expected to be out for days in moderate to high temperatures then I wouldn't hesitate to step up to a 15w-40 at the first necessary oil change.
 
Because 0-10w 40s are required to have a minimum HTHS of 3.5 whereas 15w-40 has a minimum 3.7 HTHS. That would make a difference in any engine running long hours at heavy load. A generator being called upon to heat water or power a central A/C system would seem to fall into that category.

FWIIW I run 5w-40 in my generators they tend to run at lighter loads and never more than a few hours at a time. Were I to find myself in a situation where the power was expected to be out for days in moderate to high temperatures then I wouldn't hesitate to step up to a 15w-40 at the first necessary oil change.

Sounds like we are in agreement that - in hot weather running a heavy load for hours and hours a 15W40 is a better choice VS 5W40?

How about a straight SAE 40?

Over 100 degrees, going to run constantly until power comes back on - you stay with 15W40 or if you had SAE40 would you use it instead?

I have had a jug of SAE 40 in my cart a few times - but since I have so much 15W40 I decided to use it up first.
 
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