Any real world difference with 5w30 vs 10w30 synthetic in a generator?

Well I was settled on Mobil 1 10w30 but it has been -15 for the past few days so maybe 0w40 would be best. Good in sub zero temps and 100+ summer temps.....
I actually prefer that 0w40 in my truck and most of my lawn equipment and my snowblowers.
 
Why not just use the 10w30 EP if you don't want to use the high mileage? It's probably a better oil than the regular 10w30 m1 anyway. Or use any of the others as people have said it won't mind any of them in including 5w30.
My champion calls for 5w30 and I put 0w30 euro Pennzoil platinum in it after the break in, mainly because it can get pretty cold here in the winter and it's our backup if the power goes out.
I tend to over think this kind of stuff....LOL
Sounds like the M1 10w30 High Mileage is getting good recommendations too.
 
What does that mean? Sorry, I'm not up on all the ratings. Thanks!
A3/B3 are ACEA sequences for full SAPS passenger car oils with an HTHS viscosity at 150C above 3.5, API Resource Conserving and ILSAC have fuel economy requirements that essentially limit the HTHS viscosity at 150C to 3.2-3.3 max. The Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 is no longer a "thick" 30 grade it's a thinner 30 grade for better fuel economy. Most 30 grade oils on the market are of this variety unless they are Euro car oil that claims ACEA A3.B3,B4, or C3.
 
I tend to over think this kind of stuff....LOL
Sounds like the M1 10w30 High Mileage is getting good recommendations too.
Yeah, you're overthinking it, but so are most of us that visit this site. Any of these are really good oils. The 0w40 is probably the best with the EP being second. High mileage is also good but more ideal for something that's older and starting to leak. Even that is mostly marketing as it may not help at all depending on the leaks.
 
Maybe, as long as it has electric start, or is stored indoors. I'm not sure I want to pull start 15Wanything if it's sat outside (shed or otherwise) and it's snowing--or worse, too cold to snow.
Yup - My 9500/12500 has a battery/starter even smaller than my lawn mower - so I stay away from 15W40 …
Use 10W30 or 5W40 in my gens … Especially after playing with viscosity in a pull start mower …
 
It's all about the bottom number and what temps it's being stored in and started in. 5-30w in an attached garage no problem at zero F
Put the same unit in a shed at zero and without E start you're not going to pull it over fast enough to start it without 0-30w in it.
Real experience there with a BS powered 5600w unit.
Down south it's the high temps that are the worry.
 
I'm a newbie here and am really enjoying this thread. I've a 42 yr old Troy Bilt roto tiller with a 5hp Briggs and Stratton, a Honda snowblower, honda pressure washer, honda chipper/shredder, honda generator, and a Gravely (Kawasaki 23hp) zero turn mower. All these years I've put standard conventional oil in them per owners manuals, but have gotten tired of not only keeping the variety of straight weight oils on my shelves, but trying to find what I need at the auto parts stores. I've used Mobil 1 synthetic in my cars and trucks for the last 20 years or so and never had to add oil between changes (5-7Kmiles). I'm taking the quantum leap here and going with Mobil 1 10w-30 in all my small engines after reading this along with about a dozen other online articles about synthetics in older, newer, colder, and hotter engines; and no one has said Mobil 1 synthetic is bad for them. Yes, even the 42 yr old tiller manual says I can use synthetic in the B&S!. So, I generally buy my Mobil 1 at Costco for $34 a six qt pack on coupon special, or at Wal Mart if they have it. Auto parts stores and even Amazon are much more expensive. And, Costco has free shipping if it's not in the store and you buy it online.
 
I'm a newbie here and am really enjoying this thread. I've a 42 yr old Troy Bilt roto tiller with a 5hp Briggs and Stratton, a Honda snowblower, honda pressure washer, honda chipper/shredder, honda generator, and a Gravely (Kawasaki 23hp) zero turn mower. All these years I've put standard conventional oil in them per owners manuals, but have gotten tired of not only keeping the variety of straight weight oils on my shelves, but trying to find what I need at the auto parts stores. I've used Mobil 1 synthetic in my cars and trucks for the last 20 years or so and never had to add oil between changes (5-7Kmiles). I'm taking the quantum leap here and going with Mobil 1 10w-30 in all my small engines after reading this along with about a dozen other online articles about synthetics in older, newer, colder, and hotter engines; and no one has said Mobil 1 synthetic is bad for them. Yes, even the 42 yr old tiller manual says I can use synthetic in the B&S!. So, I generally buy my Mobil 1 at Costco for $34 a six qt pack on coupon special, or at Wal Mart if they have it. Auto parts stores and even Amazon are much more expensive. And, Costco has free shipping if it's not in the store and you buy it online.
M1 10w30 is a good oil. M1 EP 10w30 is even better.
 
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