I actually prefer that 0w40 in my truck and most of my lawn equipment and my snowblowers.
Any real world difference with 5w30 vs 10w30 synthetic in a generator?
- Thread starter Chris B.
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I tend to over think this kind of stuff....LOL
Sounds like the M1 10w30 High Mileage is getting good recommendations too.
A3/B3 are ACEA sequences for full SAPS passenger car oils with an HTHS viscosity at 150C above 3.5, API Resource Conserving and ILSAC have fuel economy requirements that essentially limit the HTHS viscosity at 150C to 3.2-3.3 max. The Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W30 is no longer a "thick" 30 grade it's a thinner 30 grade for better fuel economy. Most 30 grade oils on the market are of this variety unless they are Euro car oil that claims ACEA A3.B3,B4, or C3.
Yeah, you're overthinking it, but so are most of us that visit this site. Any of these are really good oils. The 0w40 is probably the best with the EP being second. High mileage is also good but more ideal for something that's older and starting to leak. Even that is mostly marketing as it may not help at all depending on the leaks.
4WD
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Yup - My 9500/12500 has a battery/starter even smaller than my lawn mower - so I stay away from 15W40 …
Use 10W30 or 5W40 in my gens … Especially after playing with viscosity in a pull start mower …
It's all about the bottom number and what temps it's being stored in and started in. 5-30w in an attached garage no problem at zero F
Put the same unit in a shed at zero and without E start you're not going to pull it over fast enough to start it without 0-30w in it.
Real experience there with a BS powered 5600w unit.
Down south it's the high temps that are the worry.
Put the same unit in a shed at zero and without E start you're not going to pull it over fast enough to start it without 0-30w in it.
Real experience there with a BS powered 5600w unit.
Down south it's the high temps that are the worry.
I'm a newbie here and am really enjoying this thread. I've a 42 yr old Troy Bilt roto tiller with a 5hp Briggs and Stratton, a Honda snowblower, honda pressure washer, honda chipper/shredder, honda generator, and a Gravely (Kawasaki 23hp) zero turn mower. All these years I've put standard conventional oil in them per owners manuals, but have gotten tired of not only keeping the variety of straight weight oils on my shelves, but trying to find what I need at the auto parts stores. I've used Mobil 1 synthetic in my cars and trucks for the last 20 years or so and never had to add oil between changes (5-7Kmiles). I'm taking the quantum leap here and going with Mobil 1 10w-30 in all my small engines after reading this along with about a dozen other online articles about synthetics in older, newer, colder, and hotter engines; and no one has said Mobil 1 synthetic is bad for them. Yes, even the 42 yr old tiller manual says I can use synthetic in the B&S!. So, I generally buy my Mobil 1 at Costco for $34 a six qt pack on coupon special, or at Wal Mart if they have it. Auto parts stores and even Amazon are much more expensive. And, Costco has free shipping if it's not in the store and you buy it online.
M1 10w30 is a good oil. M1 EP 10w30 is even better.
My Chonda has this chart and it makes no sense at all. I can use 5W-30 conventional only below freezing, but I can use 5W-30 synthetic any time?
I store mine with 5W30 - (actually currently using up a jug of 5W40 but same concept)
If I need the generator when it is cold outside - I am in Houston so never below 10 degrees I am GTG --
But if the power goes out and it is 102 degrees I am still GTG - I would just change the oil sooner. When I change out the 5W30
under these circumstances something like a 15W40 would be used.
If it was say 70 degrees I would maybe change to SAE 30.
Keeping a selection of oils on hand is not that big of a deal for me.
If I need the generator when it is cold outside - I am in Houston so never below 10 degrees I am GTG --
But if the power goes out and it is 102 degrees I am still GTG - I would just change the oil sooner. When I change out the 5W30
under these circumstances something like a 15W40 would be used.
If it was say 70 degrees I would maybe change to SAE 30.
Keeping a selection of oils on hand is not that big of a deal for me.
Hot temperatures and conventional 5W30 usually means higher oil consumption. But it bwould seem as long as you check the oil level often it wouldn't matter all that much.
Where do you live, how do you plan to use the generator and what do you want to power with that generator?
Start temperature determines the winter weigh and oil operating temperature determines oils overall weight.
10 hp BS generator stored in an unheated area. At 0f I could lift it off the ground with the recoil and never spin it over fast enough to start it with 5-30w synth.
0-30w solved that issue. Contrary to BS manuals recommendation if it's stored at real low temps 5-30w is not thin enough, you need a 0 bottom number. At -20f per BS chart you might as well tie the recoil to a tree with 5-30w in it and pull.
I never tried a 0-40w oil in it, my snowmobiles spec that but they are electric start. Was never worried about the 0-30 in it as I just needed it to start and run to get the heat on. Ran it in the 80's F with no issues.
I ran a second identical gen set on 5-30w synth. year round in a slightly warmer climate that was stored in an attached garage with no issues.
0-30w solved that issue. Contrary to BS manuals recommendation if it's stored at real low temps 5-30w is not thin enough, you need a 0 bottom number. At -20f per BS chart you might as well tie the recoil to a tree with 5-30w in it and pull.
I never tried a 0-40w oil in it, my snowmobiles spec that but they are electric start. Was never worried about the 0-30 in it as I just needed it to start and run to get the heat on. Ran it in the 80's F with no issues.
I ran a second identical gen set on 5-30w synth. year round in a slightly warmer climate that was stored in an attached garage with no issues.
I wouldn't use a 5/30 in a air cooled motor that runs at high rpm non stop for long hours. You can't compare it to using in a lawnmower that runs one hour cutting the lawn. 10/30 is recommended for a reason. I know my generator ran 24 hours a day for 13 days straight only turned off to add gas or change oil. 5/30 in the dead of summer in those conditions is not a wise choice
I like your recommendations on Small Engine oils. Especially in a Cold region where temps can get below 0 F. How ever, I have read not to use oils with higher zddp(like small engine oil) in cars with Cats. Wasn't zinc lowered in car motor oil because it can damage the catalytic converters? Can I assume you mean adding small quantities, like less than a quart in a 5 Qt sump capacity? Maybe small quantities are insignificant. I dont know. Maybe you have direct experience and can explain it better.?
The oil you want is for sale on Amazon.
i personally like 5w40 in my diesel engines and small gasoline engines. Never had a problem from -30 to over 100 degrees
