Any real world difference with 5w30 vs 10w30 synthetic in a generator?

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So I just got done with the break in process on my Predator 9500W generator. It calls for 10w30 and I was ready to use that but can't find any regular Mobil 1 10w30. It is all the high mileage or extended protection stuff. I can find regular Mobil 1 5w30 locally though. The manual say to only use 10w30. Would the generator be ok on 5w30? This supply chain problems is getting really old! Can't find a lot of stuff locally!
I have found Valvoline synthetic 10w30 and I may use that but I've always been a Mobil guy.....Thanks gentlemen!
 
So I just got done with the break in process on my Predator 9500W generator. It calls for 10w30 and I was ready to use that but can't find any regular Mobil 1 10w30. It is all the high mileage or extended protection stuff. I can find regular Mobil 1 5w30 locally though. The manual say to only use 10w30. Would the generator be ok on 5w30? This supply chain problems is getting really old! Can't find a lot of stuff locally!
I have found Valvoline synthetic 10w30 and I may use that but I've always been a Mobil guy.....Thanks gentlemen!
Order some … I’d want at/near 3.5 HTHS … (HM has that) …
Run the 5W30 a short while and dump it when the new oil arrives … they don’t hold much oil anyway …
 
Order some … I’d want at/near 3.5 HTHS … (HM has that) …
Run the 5W30 a short while and dump it when the new oil arrives … they don’t hold much oil anyway …
What does 3.5 HTHS mean? Which High Mileage has that? Thanks!
 
Hard to believe 5w30 instead of 10w30 would matter. Would think it'd be recommended except maybe for break-in. Briggs & Stratton mowers added 5w30 synthetic to their recommended oil for covering practically all temperatures. But if you can get 10w30 Valvoline synthetic, that's what the manual says, so that's what I'd use even if you don't like Valvoline.

Here's the oil chart for Champion generators (after break-in with 10w30 conventional) by the way:


Image 3073.jpg
 
Colorado, in a generator that might run for hours on end at 3,600 rpm. Possibly during the summer or dead of winter. I'd use Mobil 1 0W40 in it, and cover all bases.
 
So I just got done with the break in process on my Predator 9500W generator. It calls for 10w30 and I was ready to use that but can't find any regular Mobil 1 10w30. It is all the high mileage or extended protection stuff. I can find regular Mobil 1 5w30 locally though. The manual say to only use 10w30. Would the generator be ok on 5w30? This supply chain problems is getting really old! Can't find a lot of stuff locally!
I have found Valvoline synthetic 10w30 and I may use that but I've always been a Mobil guy.....Thanks gentlemen!
5W-30 would be fine for winter use and then change it when the weather warms up in the spring. However, If you cannot find 10W-30 M1, use Valvoline or another brand if you want synthetic.. There's nothing special about M1 for a generator. I have been using 10w-30 conventional in my generator for years and it still works!
 
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I always thought there was no measurable difference until temps are well below 0*F. I like my 0w40 and I suppose cold flow is there, but I mainly like it for its robust qualities.

Either way, a pull start air cooled OPE engine is going to be a pain to start when it’s at those temps.
 
Not sure how much use this will get, but you will be changing this often, right? So anything for now, while what you want is on order.

If stored indoors I don’t know if 5W vs 10W will matter?
 
5w40 HDEO for the win! It makes starting easy, has a 40 weight operating viscosity and is easily found at rather reasonable prices.

Just my $0.02
 
I think Mobil 1 0W40 would be better for area. Air cooled engines need a little heavier oil because of higher
oil temperatures. The 0W is great for winter.
Am I the only one that doesn's like low SAPS oil for small engines.

15W40 I would think makes more sense for a small engine - higher saps, less VII, less shear? Or do I have that wrong. I am not a chemist. Everything I know of this stuff I learned here.
 
There is nothing wrong with using EP or HM oils. You'll still have to change the oil when recommended, and check/topoff as needed, and often.
I'd take HTHS, zddp, or both, over the recommended grade.
Your engine isn't going to care if its a 0w30, 5w30, 10w30, 0w40, or 5w40....
Stick with synthetic oil, but there is nothing wrong with the 10w30 HDEO blends.
Your engine isn't going to care about the brand of oil either. So, don't practice brand fanboism!

Since the thread starter is in Colorado, and area is known for some skiing, snow, mountains, weed.... I'd use a 5w30. BriggsStratton has a 5w30 synthetic that you could consider. Honda has a 10w30 synthetic too. VPracing has their small engine sae30/10w30

Some common oils available at most of the stores:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...vy-duty-motor-oil-0w-40-1-gallon/she2/syn0401

Any of the oils should work fine in most vehicles too. So, you don't have to store leftover small engine oil indefinitely. Just top off the cars with it too.
 
15W40 I would think makes more sense for a small engine
Maybe, as long as it has electric start, or is stored indoors. I'm not sure I want to pull start 15Wanything if it's sat outside (shed or otherwise) and it's snowing--or worse, too cold to snow.
 
Well I was settled on Mobil 1 10w30 but it has been -15 for the past few days so maybe 0w40 would be best. Good in sub zero temps and 100+ summer temps.....
 
Why not just use the 10w30 EP if you don't want to use the high mileage? It's probably a better oil than the regular 10w30 m1 anyway. Or use any of the others as people have said it won't mind any of them in including 5w30.
My champion calls for 5w30 and I put 0w30 euro Pennzoil platinum in it after the break in, mainly because it can get pretty cold here in the winter and it's our backup if the power goes out.
 
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