Specifically those from the automotive store, the kind I use in my lawn mower, and oils marketed specifically for air compressors that also call for a non-detergent 30W oil? Just curious. I'm currently draining my compressor after running it for the past 3 years on Autozone's generic non detergent 30W. Probably only a few hours time in those 3 years but it was sitting out and figured I'd do the change now whether it needs it or not.
Any real difference between non detergent 30W oils
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Originally Posted By: AandPDan
I doubt your lawnmower calls for a non-detergent oil.
+1 I wouldn't recommend.
I doubt your lawnmower calls for a non-detergent oil.
+1 I wouldn't recommend.
Originally Posted By: AandPDan
I doubt your lawnmower calls for a non-detergent oil.
Sure enough, you're right. Good thing the current one is new and has only had the included oil in it. I guess I'm thinking of the older mowers I've owned. My original question stands though.
I doubt your lawnmower calls for a non-detergent oil.
Sure enough, you're right. Good thing the current one is new and has only had the included oil in it. I guess I'm thinking of the older mowers I've owned. My original question stands though.
I agree, it's doubtful any lawnmower calls for non-skid detergent oil.
But non-detergent oil is used in come air compressors, Mercruiser tilt/trim pumps and other machinery.
But non-detergent oil is used in come air compressors, Mercruiser tilt/trim pumps and other machinery.
I agree, it's doubtful any lawnmower calls for non-skid detergent oil.
But non-detergent oil is used in come air compressors, Mercruiser tilt/trim pumps and other machinery.
But non-detergent oil is used in come air compressors, Mercruiser tilt/trim pumps and other machinery.
If your using it in a compressor make sure you know who makes it. Dont want city star or any other junk oil in there. Im sure the azone oil is fine.
Originally Posted By: Donald
But non-detergent oil is used in come air compressors
Right, and my question is about my air compressor. Specifically, is there any difference between the non-detergent 30W I can buy at the local parts store vs oil specifically marketed for air compressors.
That said, in my 40+ years of life, I've owned and operated a number of B&S powered mowers, and I'm pretty sure they used to specify non-detergent oil. Or I'm going completely nuts and am fabricating memories.
But non-detergent oil is used in come air compressors
Right, and my question is about my air compressor. Specifically, is there any difference between the non-detergent 30W I can buy at the local parts store vs oil specifically marketed for air compressors.
That said, in my 40+ years of life, I've owned and operated a number of B&S powered mowers, and I'm pretty sure they used to specify non-detergent oil. Or I'm going completely nuts and am fabricating memories.
Originally Posted By: joegreen
I have to use non detergent 30wt oil in my transfer case. I noticed they have sa rated nd30 and sb rated nd30. I always use the sb rated oil as i read it has more antiwear additives.
not much
I have to use non detergent 30wt oil in my transfer case. I noticed they have sa rated nd30 and sb rated nd30. I always use the sb rated oil as i read it has more antiwear additives.
not much
Yes there is a difference. Paraffin based 30 still exists and it is not appropriate for many applications. If you are going to run 30, run SAE 30 HD like Rotella T1 or Delo 100 or something...
I would no more use a cheap auto store oil in a compressor, than I would in my wife's Jag ... I've been putting premium multi-grade oils in tool systems since 1973 and have gotten nothing but stellar results. HD oils have good anti-foam additives. These compressors run hard for 20 or 30 years, and are still running. Rock drills, Airless paint heads, etc.
Oils high in VII's are not good. But modern well blended 10w30's and now, even 5w30's work very well. These are splash oiled systems, so the thinner starting viscosity allows them to splash up quickly.
The biggest system we did that way was a Gardner-Denver compressor powered by a CAT diesel. 500 CFM and ran two shifts a day, six days a week in a mine yard. Had 30 years on it with one top end OH and was still running fine as sold when the mine closed
I've read the service manuals and seen the recommendations. But at 9,600 feet in the Sierra's, straight 30 was to thick for reliable starts during spring thaw. Multi's went in once a year and got changed before we buttoned up in the fall. Sat under 10' to 20' of snow all winter and fired up come May when we went in to start getting ready for mining season in.
That yard equipment you have has a very simple lubrication systems. No pumped oil. Use good oil and they will run a long time
I would no more use a cheap auto store oil in a compressor, than I would in my wife's Jag ... I've been putting premium multi-grade oils in tool systems since 1973 and have gotten nothing but stellar results. HD oils have good anti-foam additives. These compressors run hard for 20 or 30 years, and are still running. Rock drills, Airless paint heads, etc.
Oils high in VII's are not good. But modern well blended 10w30's and now, even 5w30's work very well. These are splash oiled systems, so the thinner starting viscosity allows them to splash up quickly.
The biggest system we did that way was a Gardner-Denver compressor powered by a CAT diesel. 500 CFM and ran two shifts a day, six days a week in a mine yard. Had 30 years on it with one top end OH and was still running fine as sold when the mine closed
I've read the service manuals and seen the recommendations. But at 9,600 feet in the Sierra's, straight 30 was to thick for reliable starts during spring thaw. Multi's went in once a year and got changed before we buttoned up in the fall. Sat under 10' to 20' of snow all winter and fired up come May when we went in to start getting ready for mining season in.
That yard equipment you have has a very simple lubrication systems. No pumped oil. Use good oil and they will run a long time
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I'm sure there's a difference in the base oil quality which is why I'd stick with name brands like Valvoline, Castrol or the auto parts store brands are good choices since they are bottled by major companies like Warren oil or wpp
Thanks for all the thoughtful replies. What I've learned: Don't use it in my mower. And after much googling and reading message board posts, many of which are on BITOG, I've concluded that I'm *not* crazy, and that ND 30W oil used to be specified for many small engines, but no longer is for most, if any.
After reading a few product briefs on currently produced ND 30W API-SA oils *not* specifically marketed as compressor oil, they do explicitly mention reciprocating air compressors as one of the few modern applications for such a product. And if they don't, they might have a picture of an air compressor on the bottle (Valvoline, for example). So, for the quart of ND 30W API-SA oil I currently have in my possession: Air compressor pump? Yea. Any gasoline engine in my arsenal? Nay.
Next up: A lengthy discussion of what oil to use for my paper shredder
After reading a few product briefs on currently produced ND 30W API-SA oils *not* specifically marketed as compressor oil, they do explicitly mention reciprocating air compressors as one of the few modern applications for such a product. And if they don't, they might have a picture of an air compressor on the bottle (Valvoline, for example). So, for the quart of ND 30W API-SA oil I currently have in my possession: Air compressor pump? Yea. Any gasoline engine in my arsenal? Nay.
Next up: A lengthy discussion of what oil to use for my paper shredder
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Originally Posted By: joegreen
I have to use non detergent 30wt oil in my transfer case. I noticed they have sa rated nd30 and sb rated nd30. I always use the sb rated oil as i read it has more antiwear additives.
Huh. Is there anything different about that transfer case compared to the one in my '99 Nissan 4x4? That one says to use whatever is in the transmission.. If automatic, use ATF, if manual, use whatever is specified there. Mine's an automatic so I use ATF, but the last manual trans I had (I think) specified 10w30. That was a 1990 Honda. Hard to recall. Anyway, makes me think that the transfer case lube choice is flexible, much more so than say a differential. Way off topic but now I'm curious.
I have to use non detergent 30wt oil in my transfer case. I noticed they have sa rated nd30 and sb rated nd30. I always use the sb rated oil as i read it has more antiwear additives.
Huh. Is there anything different about that transfer case compared to the one in my '99 Nissan 4x4? That one says to use whatever is in the transmission.. If automatic, use ATF, if manual, use whatever is specified there. Mine's an automatic so I use ATF, but the last manual trans I had (I think) specified 10w30. That was a 1990 Honda. Hard to recall. Anyway, makes me think that the transfer case lube choice is flexible, much more so than say a differential. Way off topic but now I'm curious.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Yes there is a difference. Paraffin based 30 still exists and it is not appropriate for many applications. If you are going to run 30, run SAE 30 HD like Rotella T1 or Delo 100 or something...
I would no more use a cheap auto store oil in a compressor, than I would in my wife's Jag ... I've been putting premium multi-grade oils in tool systems since 1973 and have gotten nothing but stellar results. HD oils have good anti-foam additives. These compressors run hard for 20 or 30 years, and are still running. Rock drills, Airless paint heads, etc.
Oils high in VII's are not good. But modern well blended 10w30's and now, even 5w30's work very well. These are splash oiled systems, so the thinner starting viscosity allows them to splash up quickly.
The biggest system we did that way was a Gardner-Denver compressor powered by a CAT diesel. 500 CFM and ran two shifts a day, six days a week in a mine yard. Had 30 years on it with one top end OH and was still running fine as sold when the mine closed
I've read the service manuals and seen the recommendations. But at 9,600 feet in the Sierra's, straight 30 was to thick for reliable starts during spring thaw. Multi's went in once a year and got changed before we buttoned up in the fall. Sat under 10' to 20' of snow all winter and fired up come May when we went in to start getting ready for mining season in.
That yard equipment you have has a very simple lubrication systems. No pumped oil. Use good oil and they will run a long time
The word paraffin is a very common and basic term for base mineral oil. The MSDS sheets for many motor oils use the word paraffin to describe the main oil ingredient...as in "SOLVENT-DEWAXED HEAVY PARAFFINIC PETROLEUM," which is how Valvoline phrases it in their MSDS sheets.
Paraffin is the proper organic chemistry word for aliphatic hydrocarbons...more commonly known as oil. It is also the correct name for wax and candles. But there is as much difference between paraffin wax and paraffin oil as there is between a chestnut horse and a horse chestnut. They just aint the same thing. Don't matter whether you're talking about Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline or your wife's Christmas candles.
Yes there is a difference. Paraffin based 30 still exists and it is not appropriate for many applications. If you are going to run 30, run SAE 30 HD like Rotella T1 or Delo 100 or something...
I would no more use a cheap auto store oil in a compressor, than I would in my wife's Jag ... I've been putting premium multi-grade oils in tool systems since 1973 and have gotten nothing but stellar results. HD oils have good anti-foam additives. These compressors run hard for 20 or 30 years, and are still running. Rock drills, Airless paint heads, etc.
Oils high in VII's are not good. But modern well blended 10w30's and now, even 5w30's work very well. These are splash oiled systems, so the thinner starting viscosity allows them to splash up quickly.
The biggest system we did that way was a Gardner-Denver compressor powered by a CAT diesel. 500 CFM and ran two shifts a day, six days a week in a mine yard. Had 30 years on it with one top end OH and was still running fine as sold when the mine closed
I've read the service manuals and seen the recommendations. But at 9,600 feet in the Sierra's, straight 30 was to thick for reliable starts during spring thaw. Multi's went in once a year and got changed before we buttoned up in the fall. Sat under 10' to 20' of snow all winter and fired up come May when we went in to start getting ready for mining season in.
That yard equipment you have has a very simple lubrication systems. No pumped oil. Use good oil and they will run a long time
The word paraffin is a very common and basic term for base mineral oil. The MSDS sheets for many motor oils use the word paraffin to describe the main oil ingredient...as in "SOLVENT-DEWAXED HEAVY PARAFFINIC PETROLEUM," which is how Valvoline phrases it in their MSDS sheets.
Paraffin is the proper organic chemistry word for aliphatic hydrocarbons...more commonly known as oil. It is also the correct name for wax and candles. But there is as much difference between paraffin wax and paraffin oil as there is between a chestnut horse and a horse chestnut. They just aint the same thing. Don't matter whether you're talking about Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline or your wife's Christmas candles.
Certain products' data sheets will also mention if they're suitable for air compressor use. Most of the majors make non-detergent monogrades suitable for use for air compressors, and at a significantly cheaper price than a branded air compressor oil.
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